1
Time Out Market

We’ve arrived in Portugal! We’re in Lisbon for the next 6 days.

Today we’re taking it easy. Once we settled into our place we walked to a big food hall called Time Out Market that had an overwhelming number of food choices.

On our walk we confirmed rumors that Lisbon is hilly, including the stairs to our lodging!

Jessee and Rocky in the Philadelphia airport. 🥊

The view from the patio.

The stairwell up to our Airbnb.

Even the smallest size comes with 3 flavors which is fun.

The rooftop patio at our Airbnb.

Architecture and tiles along the way.

There is a lot of old unique door hardware. Handles, locks and knockers.

And small street art.

So many great gelato flavors to choose from….

Big street art.

2
Castelo de São Jorge

We’ve been walking around parts of Lisbon including the Castle of Sao Jorge in the Alfama neighborhood and the Botanical Gardens around the corner from where we’re staying.

Ongoing impressive door hardware.

Lots of narrow passages and laundry drying.

We attended a Portuguese guitar concert. It was a great mix of musicians and styles.

They were quite delicious!

An unusually large cactus at the botanical gardens.

Our first pastel de Nata in clever \240packaging.

The site of the castle of Sao Jorge has been occupied by various civilizations since 700 BC including Phonecians, Roman’s, Visgoths, Moors and now Portuguese. There isn’t an existing palace due to a massive earthquake in the 1700’s but there is record of it existing in the area in the photo below.

Love the mosaics in the pathways.

This is the street we’re staying on, in the green building.

View of the neighborhood around the castle.

Part of the defensive non-residencial castle fortifications are intact.

There are a lot of peacocks. Some of which have white feathers which I haven’t seen before.

3
Park and Palace of Monserrate

We visited two of many amazing palaces in Sintra today.

The first was the palace of Monserrat. The first two exterior photos aren’t mine. I borrowed them from the internet as the building is currently covered in scaffolding for restoration so not very visible or scenic.

No royalty lived here. Just a very rich Englishman.

Quite the door to the library.

Very fancy chandeliers.

The Moorish castle seen from Pena Palace.

There are several gates.

Increíble ceiling.

The garden was beautiful and on a massive scale.

Hallway.

The second palace was the Pena Palace where Portuguese royalty spent their summers. This first photo also isn’t my photo but gives a sense of scale. The building is out of a fairy tale.

This palace also has extensive grounds and gardens with several ponds and geese with stories to tell.

Entryway looking in. Truly beautiful.

Entryway looking out.

We were shunned by the entry cat.

4
Cascais

There are parts of Lisbon like any other city. Unremarkable office buildings, cookie cutter apartment blocks, big box stores and freeways. There are also amazing neighborhoods with architecture that is unique, colorful, stacked, cared for and also abandoned.

Below are some streetscapes from our wandering in Lisbon and the resort and fishing town of Cascais.

Note the surfboard icon on the train. Folks from Lisbon must tote them to coastal surfing spots on the trains.

This is in Cascais. A car can drive through but there’s no room for parking.

Fishing boats.

One of many Cascais beaches.

Break time! Check out the mountain of foam on these cappuccinos!

Cascais has amazing sidewalk and road mosaics.

5
Praça Martim Moniz

We took a great street art tour and learned many things about Lisbon, history, culture and artists here. Between the tour and our own wandering, we’ve come across a lot of street art. \240I’ll share some of our favorites.

One theme throughout are red carnations. They symbolize liberty. There is a story about the bloodless revolution from the dictatorship here in the 1970’s that involves soldiers putting red carnations in the barrels of their guns. Red carnations are in many of the murals.

Below is a Portuguese 12 string guitar and a Fado singer.

We had some good snacks today! This was a cod and cheese \240croquette.

Gelato from a place featured on the show Somebody Feed Phil. It was great. I had strawberry, zabillone, and a creamy basil which was my favorite. Jessee had strawberry, dark chocolate and stratchiatella.

This bee is made from trash.

Pizza sold by weight! They would cut it to any size. I had the sweet potato and mushroom and Jessee had the red sauce and mushrooms.

The photo above was taken on the spot where it is currently posted.

6
Faro

There is an issue in Portugal with empty derelict buildings To prevent people from squatting in unsafe places, they often fill the windows and doors with bricks. Sometimes the windows are open or all the glass is broken.

This empty building was around the corner from where we were staying in Lisbon. If you look at the lower left next to the blue parking sign, you can see where tile is missing. This is an issue all over Lisbon as the tiles, especially older ones, are valuable to sell as antiques. Prying them off often results in many of them breaking.

To highlight the issue, a local group of artists replaces missing tiles with new ones that don’t match along with a QR code to raise awareness. A few examples are below.

Sunset in Faro.

Old street art via tiles.

When we arrived in Faro one of the first things we saw was the “Space Invader” tile mosaic below done by the same artist we were introduced to in Melbourne. He gets around! He has an official map online showing all his installations around the world and this one is his. The fish is a bonus.

A beautiful old house with big black and white bird residents in giant nests on the roof. Storks!

A crocheted awning.

We found a restaurant that reproduces some of the traditional meat heavy foods with plant based look alikes. We enjoyed it!

A crocheted carnation that doesn’t have anything to do with tile but I love it.

Faro has a wall surrounding the oldest part of the city and two of the three entrances in the wall \240are below.

7
Tavira

We’ve been enjoying our time in Faro. Today we took a train east along the coast to Tavira to see a bit more of the Algarve. It was very charming.

Signs of spring are starting.

Time for snacks! Gelato with cookie spoons. Brilliant!

Tavira has a river going through the middle of town . This is one of the bridges connecting the two sides.

Happy Pi day! Back in Faro we randomly came across this inlay in the sidewalk of the numbers for pi which continue for a whole block. No explanation of why this is where it is. A mystery!

There are many orange trees in the Algarve. They seem very productive and smell amazing.

Then I decided to start documenting some of the tiles we come across on various buildings.

There was a pretty garden incorporated into the castle ruins.

We visited a tile museum highlighting different eras of tile styles and techniques.

A prawn and cheese toastie, fries and wine.

Still loving the door hardware.

8
Faro

Faro was a fun town to visit. I love the old city walls, cobbled streets and tiled buildings.

These are the cloisters of a building that served as a convent and is now an art museum.

One of the dishes was mackerel and sweet potato.

We had a great dinner at a restaurant that focuses on new takes on traditional Portuguese cuisine. The decorations and vibe were perfect. Like being in a grandma’s dining room.

One of the churches in town.

A gorgeous cappuccino I couldn’t resist sharing.

With maximalist decoration.

And newer ones with character too!

And a chapel made of bones of over 1,000 monks.

A bit creepy but also intriguing. Apparently they ran out of cemetery space and this was the solution.

With the required resident stork from the tower in the photo above.

So many unoccupied old buildings with character.

A few murals in town.

9
Cádiz

We have transitioned to Spain! We are in Cadiz. It is the longest inhabited city in Western Europe and has seen many civilizations including the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors and present day Spain. It is beautiful with fascinating streets and a very lively community.

Part of the beautiful seaside promenade walk below. The main cathedral is the large dome and towers to the left.

We came across this interesting art installation in a military chapel. It’s made entirely out of plastic trash. It reminds me of a sea monkey seascape.

Pretty and inviting streets.

Along the sea wall are a couple feral cat colonies. They appear very well cared for and have the best view in town!

They have beautiful tile.

Ice cream break!

We visited a Roman Theatre built in the first century BC but only rediscovered in the 1980’s when work was happening in the neighborhood. It could hold 10,000 people. Only about a third has been excavated as occupied buildings are on top of the rest. A city this old has a lot of layers.

I love the streets here.

One of the 3 entries to the walled part of the city.

Which way to go? Both look great!

For my fellow Tolkien fans…You shall not pass without visiting Middle Earth (store).

An in city beach.

The apartment building entryways here are very enticing. I want to go in them all!

There are several pretty parks.

The main cathedral.

A delicious Mediterranean dinner with falafel, hummus, cheese pastries and salad.

10
Mercado Central de Abastos de Cádiz

We took part in a great tour of Cadiz and learned a lot more history and some Andalusia tips and etiquette.

The tour included a sherry tasting, below.

And of course dessert and coffee 😄

This is the mailbox at the main post office. The mail goes in the lions mouth. I love this.

We have started sampling tapas. Here we had cured/dried Tuna, a cheese made with a blend of sheep/goat/cow milk, and a special local ham. Also tinto de verano which is red wine, soda water and lemon mixed together. Very refreshing.

Looking toward the other bell tower.

One of a number of fortifications around the city.

This is a local alleyway that is supposed to be inhabited by a lucky gnome like creature who will grant wishes for good luck but just for the day that you visit the alley.

And beautiful entryway tiles.

This view is from the cathedral bell tower.

Ongoing fun door hardware.

There is a great central food market with lots of seafood, fruit and vegetables, olives, and prepared foods like paella.

11
Royal Alcázar of Seville

We are in Sevilla. It’s a bit of a madhouse, a lot of people visiting, but it’s for a good reason. It’s beautiful.

The orange trees are so fragrant. I’m not sure if the fruit is tasty as we haven’t tried picking any but they’re sure pretty!

And tile.

It has extensive and beautiful gardens.

The cathedral tower.

We went for pizza!

There are so many beautiful buildings and fountains, it’s a bit overwhelming.

And of course 🍧.

It has a lovely and very large park as well.

This is the Plaza de España. Built as part of an exposition honoring Andalucía and all the provinces of Spain. There’s a water feature that people can rent row boats to explore, a fountain and bridges. It huge and ornate.

We also visited the Alcazar Palace where royalty still stays when they’re in town. It’s built on the site of a Moorish fort and incorates a lot of Moorish architecture although it was built by Catholic rulers.

Many beautiful doors.

12
Setas de Sevilla

A busy day!

We saw some beautiful buildings in our wanderings down narrow passageways.

Taking a Well deserved break.

A historic ship museum on the river.

The bougainvillea is in full bloom!

We visited the casa de Pilatos. A palace of a noble family from the 1500’s. It has amazing tile work, ceilings and outdoor spaces.

Enticing entryway en route.

Sunset over the river.

Evening flamenco performance. It was really good, and intense!

Video below:

Next we went to las Setas. It’s the worlds biggest wooden structure. Part plaza hang out space underneath and part viewing structure on top.

Video below:

The torre de oro.

Gelato break! Cheesecake and crème brûlée.

13
Catedral de Sevilla

Today we visited the Sevilla Cathedral, which is enormous and is built on the site of a former mosque. It retains some of the mosques architecture such as this courtyard entryway below.

Gelato flavors of the day….dark chocolate orange and almond orange and strawberry.

And so many enticing apartment entryways.

I like these light covers at a much more human sized church near our lodging.

Many businesses seem to paint the security gates so they’re colorful when closed.

It’s hard to show the immensity of the inside of the church.

This was originally the mosque minaret.

There are so many pretty apartment buildings here.

Organ pipes.

14
Puente Nuevo de Ronda viewpoint

We have transitioned to Ronda. It is one of the larger of the white walled towns in the mountains of Andalusia. It’s the birthplace of bull fighting.

We arrived in time for a lovely sunset on our first day here.

One of the town gates.

Our customary gelato break 😀

This is one of the older bridges.

It’s no joke! It was the access to the only water source for the town when it was under siege.

The bottom of the stairwell at the rivers edge.

We also visited the Arabic baths which were a community hub for the town with heated rooms and water and star shaped skylights.

And of course enticing tiled entryways.

Lots of streets like this.

The town is divided in two by an impressive river gorge and is built right up to the edge of the gorge walls.

Cat enjoying the sunset too.

There are lovely parks along cliff side walking paths.

Looking down into the gorge from the bridge.

The two sides of town are connected by several bridges across the gorge. The Puente Nuevo or New bridge is the most impressive. It was built in the 1700’s - very new😜.

We visited a moorish house that had a lovely view from the garden and a staircase bored down the cliff to the river. 200 steps and 20 stories down, and back up!

A little mural art.

15
Mondragon Palace

Lots of walking to different parts of town today.

This is the view of the other side of the Puente Nuevo bridge than the side in the photos yesterday.

There were wildflowers blooming on the hillsides.

Some fun doors, entry and tiles from the day.

Neighborhood flowers.

A good boy on a balcony taking in the local happenings.

Looking toward one of the older bridges.

We walked down to near the bottom of the cliffs for a different view right before sunset.

Exploring the walls.

The museum gardens.

One of the city gates.

The Ronda Museum in a past palace.

View from the garden terrace.

The inner courtyard.

A perfect lunch of fresh tomatoes in olive oil and cheese on a shady plaza. There was also a wonderful musician who happened to be playing the guitar while we were there.

16
Puerta del Almocábar

Our last day walking around Ronda.

Thoughts on the message here? No broken hearts? Stop breaking hearts?

Fun group of chimneys.

The daily tiled entries.

Fun door hardware.

I love that the bridge is illuminated at night.

It looks like one of the many paths of the Camino de Santiago goes through Ronda.

17
Plaza Nueva

We have transitioned to Granada. I was super lucky to study here for a couple months over 20 years ago. I’m loved the city then and am excited to rediscover it now.

Below is the small inner courtyard in the building we’re staying in.

There is a lot of Moorish architecture here as it was the last of the Islamic cities to surrender to the Spanish crown. It held out a couple hindred years longer than the rest of Moorish Spain.

A bit of street art.

A typical weekend evening. People are out and about.

A soul like shopping street.

A teateria where we took another break.

And enjoyed tea and a crepe.

The Duro river at the base of the Alhambra neighborhood.

Taking a tapas break with some sautéed potatoes.

First Alhambra sighting!

One of the city wall gates.

18
Generalife

Today we visited one of my favorite places, the Alhambra and Generalife. Truly magical. \240The Alhambra is the most visited place in Spain (although it’s neck and neck with the Sagrada Famila in Barcelona).

This first group of photos is from the Generalife garden and palace.

Wherever you are in the Generalife you can hear the sound of flowing water.

I’m pretty sure this cat had a lizard in its sights, although not the one above.

Gelato of the day! Pomegranate and papaya and Strawberry and Stratchitella.

Wisteria arbors.

My what a long tail you have….

This is the waterfall staircase which has water flowing down channels on each side and a fountain on each landing.

Peonies!

A view of the Alhambra from the Generalife.

The plants along this pathway have gorgeous pink flowers in the summer.

The arched shrubs below are actually shaped orange trees.

Lots of stairways.

19
Nasrid Palaces

This batch of photos is from the Nasrid Palace portion of the Alhambra. They don’t come anywhere close to doing it justice. It’s an amazing work of art.

This is the most famous area, the patio of the lions.

The ceilings are incredible and include carved wood and plaster.

The honeycomb ceilings are something else!

The ceiling is like looking at fractals.

Islamic art does not contain human depictions. All the creativity goes into patterns and script.

20
Alcazaba

This is the last group of Alhambra photos. Mainly focused on the fortress portion of the Alhambra, the Alcazaba.

This is one of the gates to the Alhambra, the door of justice.

Lovely walkway mosaic.

Not sure what these very round rocks are intended for.

Turkish sweets. So colorful!

Alcazaba exit.

The entry to the Alcazaba.

Love the wisteria.

Beautiful snowy Sierra Nevada mountains.

First churros and chocolate.

21
Catedral de Granada

We happen to be in Spain during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, between Palm Sunday and Easter. It is a very big deal. It’s spring break so kids are out of school and a lot of people take time off to visit friends and family or cities that have a lot of events, like Granada.

One of the notable events are processions that are made up of religious brotherhoods who carry very large pasos (religious floats) with iconic figures or scenes related to the story of Christ. Additionally there are penitents dressed in robes and masks with pointed hoods, as well as brass bands.

The pasos weigh a lot, some several tons. The 20-50 brotherhood members underneath carrying them stop a lot for rests. So, the processions move very slowly and take hours winding through the city. Roads are shut down from about 3pm to 1am. People line the streets and pack the neighborhood restaurants and cafes. It’s very social.

Below is the Granada cathedral. In all the cities in Spain we’ve been in, fancy stadium like seating has been set up adjacent to churches along the procession routes. Important families or those making large donations get to sit in the seats.

One of the pasos in Sevilla in a church on display. Some are so big they don’t fit through church doors and are stored in special warehouses.

Video below:

To keep kids from getting bored, there’s an activity where during the long pauses of the procession moving, kids collect the wax dripping from the penitents candles. It’s a kind of competition between kids to make the biggest and most colorful wax ball. Kids keep the balls and add to them over the years.

We are staying near the Cathedral and the processions often pass nearby. So, we’ve gotten to see several here and in our walking around town. We’ve taken a lot of long detours to work around them as well.

A brotherhood office window.

Two guys in hoods on their way to join in a procession somewhere.

Video below:

22
Sacromonte

Today we visited the Sacromonte neighborhood of Granada. It once was made up largely of cave dwellings created and inhabited by gypsy Roma people and other marginalized groups. It is the birthplace of Flamenco in Granada.

The museum we visited has 11 caves showing how they were typically set up and furnished. There are ones showing dwellings, weaving, pottery, metal workshops and flamenco.

The neighborhood had over 3,000 people living in caves up until 1965 when there was torrential rain and flooding and the government declared them too dangerous to live in and forced everyone out.

There are still homes in caves in the area today and some lodging as well.

Part of an old city wall in the area.

He was sad to see Jessee go.

The neighborhood looking toward the Alhambra.

Funny art.

A few more monumental structures on our walk. An old minaret.

The interior and exterior of the caves are painted in lime which deters moisture and reflects heat. They are a constant temperature all year round.

Jessee made a friend along the way. Most of the cats we’ve come across are not interested in interacting but this one definitely was.

Two city gates.

23
Albaicín

We’ve seen so many beautiful balconies in Granada. I’m highlighting some below, mainly in the Albaicin neighborhood. Geraniums are the favorite flower. The traditional pottery in Granada uses a lot of blue, green and white so that’s also a common element along with terracotta.

There’s one artist in particular who has been around for a long time. Most of the photos below are his. Look for script and sprockets.

A courtyard and not a balcony but worth including!

There is a pocket of street art in the neighborhood below the Alhambra.

Granada also has a lot of art on business security doors throughout the city, usually related to what the business does.

A few photos of passageways that defy cars.

24
Carmen de los Mártires

Granada has many unique doors and doorways. I’d have loved to see behind them!

We were able to spend some time at a lovely palace garden called Carmen de los Mártires.

It has its own aqueduct!

This is a photo from the bus between Granada and Cordoba. A small town and its castle. And lots and lots of olive trees. I would estimate that about 85% of Andalusia is dedicated to olive trees with small islands of forest, towns, solar farms and wind turbines.

The Alhambra illuminated at night. So glad we came here. It’s a special place.

25
Mosque-Cathedral Monumental Site of Córdoba

We are in Cordoba and enjoying the city very much.

Cordoba was the capital of the caliphate for hundreds of years and the epicenter of learning and art in its time in Europe. It has 4 UNESCO world heritage sites, more than any other European city.

One of the heritage sites is the mosque/cathedral. The Caliphs built a mosque on the site of an Episcopal church between the 8th and 10th centuries. It was expanded several times to hold over 40,000 people. It was one of the largest mosques in the world at the time.

When the Spanish Catholics conquered Cordoba, they didn’t knock down the mosque, but build around it and in it to convert it to a cathedral.

Entry doors to the courtyard.

Snack time! We enjoyed a local dish of eggplant fries with goat cheese and honey. One of the few times I can say that I’ve enjoyed eggplant!

Stained glass from the mosque.

This dome was added for the church knave.

The iconic columns from the mosque. There are hundreds. Each colum has a different capital/top. Some repurposed from Roman sites in the area and the former Episcopal church.

This is one of the gates through the old city wall.

This is the entrance to the alley where we are staying in the old Jewish neighborhood.

More exterior detail.

The bell tower which was the minaret.

26
Palacio de Viana

One of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites for Cordoba is its collective patios. There is a festival of patios in May when people open them up to the public for viewing. The rest of the year some are open for a small fee that goes to support their upkeep by the owners. One neighborhood in particular, San Basilio, has several award winning patios, some of which were open during our visit.

The flowers are mainly Geraniums but Petunias and Begonias are also very popular.

The Roman temple in Cordoba.

Some impressive doors in the Jewish neighborhood.

Tiles commentating honors received over the years are put up outside the patio entries.

I love this one dedicated to one of the patio owners.

The entryway to the Alley where our lodging is located was in the historically Jewish neighborhood.

There is a palace, Palacio de Viana, that is open to the public that has 11 patios. Each with its own vibe. Most with fountains.

A bridge called the Roman bridge leading to \240the Mosque/Cathedral.

Some colorful trim.

Yummy Mediterranean meal of hummus, falafel and tabbouleh.

Making good use of the patio rest areas.

Cordoba also has many welcoming tiled building entries.

Statue commemorating multi-generational care of the patios.

27
Real Jardín Botánico

We have arrived in Madrid. We’re staying in a lively area called Puerta del Sol. There is a lot going on and a lot of people.

The architecture is definitely bigger here than anywhere we’ve been so far. I love the colors of the buildings on this street.

Love the sentiment and the bollard painted like a pencil outside this art studio. Art is the solution to chaos.

The bear and tree are the emblem of Madrid.

And a smattering of street art.

Parque Retiro is a massive park with many paths and benches and places to relax in the shade or sun. This is the very large pond where people can rent rowboats.

We also visited a food market with vendors selling prepared foods, fruit and vegetables, fish, meat, cheese, and olives.

There are some impressive towers on buildings here. This one is on the building housing the four seasons hotel.

Of course we visited the adjacent botanical garden which had some lovely spring blooms.

A bit of fancy door hardware.

First visit to Plaza Mayor. The biggest plaza in Madrid with lots of cafes and buskers.

Today was a light photo day in Madrid. So, we’re going back in time to extra Granada photos.

The name Granada may have come from the Latin word Granata meaning pomegranate. Pomegranates are not native to the area but they were introduced and can be found. It might also have to do with the red color of the soil in the area.

Whether true or not, the city has embraced the meaning and there are pomegranate representations in every type of art medium throughout the city.

Below are several we came across along the way.

Many roof drainage downspouts have pomegranates on them.

I had a delicious pomegranate gelato as well 😀.

All street signs made of tile in the Albacin neighborhood have pomegranates.

Every bollard in the city has a pomegranate top. This was the only one with the seeds painted red.

28
Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes

We took a field trip to Toledo today. The train station makes a great first impression!

Cervantes statue.

Beautiful stained glass and tile.

Our train back to Madrid.

Fancy roof drain spouts in the shapes of fanciful animals.

An entry to he university.

There are so many glass window boxes here.

A short walk brought us to one of the entrances to the town.

The cloister at monastery of San Juan de los Reyes.

Painted balconies beneath the real thing.

This is the impressive original ticket counter.

Fancy and strange door knocker.