But as soon as you arrive the familiar greeting and scented garlands lifts the moods.

This place is sheer opulence, managed to get a club suite with executive lounge access with Secret escapes for 510 pounds for the 3 nights. Might seem steep to start with, but it includes breakfast, executive lounge lunches, pre drinks of all alcohols from 1730 to 1930 and tapas, basically tapas are like a full dinner! Beer is free from 1000. Then you get free items laundry, teas, coffees, all soft drinks and cocktail daily at Moon Bar on 58th floor.....what a view!

Great place to start a trip.

You then get a pass, guide map and the boats run quite frequently up and down the river with some kind of tannoy live description of the sites and where to get off. It’s in Thai and English but I didn’t understand either but your map kind of lets you know where to get off.

So next big question is where do you start, so much to see and I am not going to explain it all, but one thing is important to note.....opening and closing times of attractions and what you are wearing. For example we decided to try The Grand Palace first, believing that the opening times are 0830 to 1530. And shorts or baring flesh are not permitted, basically you have to cover up, that means sweating like crazy all day with your only jeans, or buying cheap leggings and shawls from numerous stalls nearby.

Karen: Well that’s what the guide book told us, but after walking around the perimeter in sweltering heat only able to find the Exit, we were told by a guide that it had closed for the day - and this was midday! So much for guide books!

Justin: Beware also of some touts, although I never see them as harmless but they try to divert you to better sites. They probably are earning a commission on a Tuk tuk trip they send you to, or a better temple or Buddha to see, stick to your guns and stick to your maps.

So our original plan of finding a closed palace meant we lost a few hours but come on, the area is thriving, full of people watching candy and a buzz to keep all minds interested we were happy to head to another site.

Karen: I have a little tip here. You’ll be wandering about in 30+C with few places of shade, so invest in a folding umbrella to keep you cool - or should I just say cooler. The important thing is to stay hydrated, but it’s best to drink water that’s not ice cold as this is can shock your intestines in such high temperatures. If you buy water from a street vendor, buy the bottles from the middle of the ice box not the very bottom. The ones on the top are sitting out in the sun - and sun and plastic don’t mix, and the ones at the bottom will be too cold for your system.

We decided to head back 3 stops to The Temple of Dawn/ Wat Arun. It’s described as best to see at sunset, closes at 1730 and called The Dawn Temple......hmmm work that one out. However it’s a very spiritual and stunning place even at 13.35.

Just 50Baht gets you into the temple and there is plenty to see, if you are a fan of Buddhism then you must head here, easy to lose 2 hours, and you can even be blessed for a small donation.

It reached 15.45 and after plenty to see here, the luxury of The Banyan Tree and our opulent suite beckoned, so we decided to reverse our days start and head back to cooler climes.

One big perk of renting a suite at The Banyan Tree is access to the Club Lounge where canapés and food treats flow endlessly from 17.30 to 19.30, plus alcohol is at your leisure, so it’s an ideal pre pub starter before you head out for dinner or to be honest it can actually suffice as dinner and rather shamelessly tonight we have opted to rather politely “fill our boots” only reason being, to be up super early in the morning to head out for further exploring, unless the bed says otherwise.

Justin: He dropped us off at the Flower Market around 20 minutes later and we ventured to the direction of Wat Pho, reclining Buddha as we knew it was approximately a 15/20 minute walk.

However I recommend to any gardeners, landscapers and florists to venture down any side streets and alleys as it’s quite wonderful here. Beautiful bouquets, scents and garlands are awash on every stall, street and corner at such cheap prices. I wanted to buy a bag of jasmine flowers, chrysanthemums, orchid petals for as little as 25Baht but they would be wasted, so I simply marvelled in its awe.

We spent over an hour in this district but could easily have doubled that time if we studied more.

Then it was a quick pit stop for Thai grown sustainable coffee and a fresh coconut in one of the many cafes on the way and within 30 minutes we were at the entrance to Wat Pho which is the famous reclining Buddha.

To be honest we expected hordes of people barging through the entrance and the Chinese tour parties everywhere but considering it was around 1130 it was relatively quiet. Perhaps this is a place not many tourists frequent?

A 100Baht per person got us in, not too fussy with our dress code, I had shorts and flip flops, Karen wore a dress to the knees but arms exposed. We were accepted and in.

Karen: To be fair, I did have a cold towel over my bare shoulders and my sun dress finished just above the knee although the cashier couldn’t see that behind his high counter. More on that later...

Justin: Then OMG wow, this is serious sensory overload, the architecture, design, colours and ambience was quite remarkable. We were expecting just one building with the iconic Buddha but there is plenty to see here. So just breathe in, relax and let it take you on its journey.

There was even a grand hall where a live prayer session and gathering was taking place with the monks, however this is where Karen was told that she had to cover up to go in, no charge, but this part was quite strict to witness.

Karen: As with most temples where a ceremony is taking place, there is an official at the door enforcing the dress code. In this case I was directed to put on a type of overskirt that was supplied at the foot of the steps. The cool towel sufficed for my shoulders and, like everyone else, my shoes had to be removed.

Justin: Wat Pho in my mind is highly recommended, we decided to skip the palace based on the huge amount of tourists there, no shade, strict clothing regulations and the odd closing hours.

We were not disappointed, they even had a small food court and street food where I topped up with further coconut water and we spent some time people watching under the shade of a banyan tree.

Two hours could easily be spent here, we probably were a bit under as we were getting a bit peckish and then decided to walk back through Flower Market and into India and Chinatown. However on the way we found many street cafes and this particular one called Grandmas Kitchen took our fancy....as we think, Grandma sits there all day saying “Thai food, Singha beer, very nice, welcome” with a beaming, part toothless smile.

A papaya salad, pad thai, squid in basil and chilli and that ice cold Singha were just the icing on the mornings cake. And a sigh when the bill came....320 Baht.

Karen: I had a vegetarian Pad Thai with tofu and crunchy peanuts and the waitress checked to make sure if I wanted to add egg and fish sauce - great for strict veggies. Another tip here - keep drinking water as the heat really dehydrates you and come evening you could be hit with headaches or worse. Don’t worry about loo stops as there are many really clean public toilets that cost 10B or less although you’ll be sweating it out so much you’ll hardly need to go.

Once fed and watered we headed to India/China town, they kind of amalgamate into two although ChinaTown is quite large. Personally I didn’t quite get as much satisfaction here. ChinaTown had huge covered alleyways that ran on and on but nothing really of interest for me, as it was mainly plastic orientated products, perfumes, plastic flowers, kiddy trinkets and tacky jewellery, and in many areas it smelt of mothballs. It was mobbed mind you by presumably Chinese but I prefer the more real edible and organic Thai markets.

Finally around 1530 and starting to flag we waved another tuk tuk, negotiated a little and were whisked back to palatial Banyan Tree for 200 Baht.

So for those here for 2/3 days I would recommend the water taxis as part of your sightseeing and definitely a tuk tuk to enable you to see other parts of the Bangkok metropolis, it’s no difference in price and would say tuk tuk is quicker. Just negotiate and fix a price with NO STOPS, otherwise your driver will be detouring en route to a take you to a ‘really special’ tailors, jewellers or both! His commission for both will have been agreed between them in advance.

Tomorrow it’s Chiang Mai time! Yey.

As soon as we took off captain seemed just as quick to say prepare for landing, the journey was scheduled for 1 hour 25 minutes but it was more like an hour.

Landing was comfortable and we were out with our luggage in less than 20 minutes and a young man awaited with our name courtesy of Lanna Dusita.

We had quick glimpse of Chiang Mai during our taxi but was more focused on arrival and to be honest a cold Chang!

We booked a room with river view and 111 although nice had no river to look at, so Karen politely complained, and was told tomorrow we would have better room.

It meant not being able to unpack but we were happy to head to their bar and restaurant and drink some beer, wine and dine on a tofu curry and a pork and ginger speciality.

By 2030 we were fed and watered and both tired enough to head back for bed as tomorrow we have a full days tour planned with a Mr.Boon.

Good night.

It’s our first morning at Lanna Dusita, despite hard bed slept exceptionally well and was down for breakfast for 0730 in readiness for our first trip. Relatively basic breakfast but adequate and I am very much Thai in cuisine now so a chicken rice curry and chillies and dried fish suit me fine.

By 0900 we were waiting for a Mr.Boon tour, and in the foyer was his wife who was going to be courtesy driver and Charlie who we picked up 30 mins later was the guide. All private and very luxurious van.

First stop was an elephant rescue sanctuary, we refused to go to a ride on elephant park as often they are abused and forced using a macabre hook behind the ears if they are disobedient. So Chiang Mai has many rescue places where elephants have been bought from logging companies, parks etc....for a better life.

On arrival approx an hour later was bit awkward as lady at desk typed in 3200 Baht to get in, it looked quite bleak and empty and wasn’t expecting quite a large fee to see elephants. Was not told this by Mr.Boon.

In fact I only brought 3000 Baht for the day as thought it would be enough cash, luckily I had one Visa card, and despite another 3% extra charge prodded on her calculator, the card after 10 mins spewed out some old receipt and we were in.

Then we were told to strip off and wear some rather oversized dungarees......

Thai lady says “change clothes, you swim with elephant”

Now we’re talking so I did not hesitate.

Once suitably attired we had our guide who got us chopping pumpkins and loaded our prison clothes with bananas....I think you know the script next.

Tong Mai we met first she was separated from the other females as she is scared of other elephants, probably bullying in the past. Bless her, she was adorable and was not long before her trunk was robbing every pocket of banana and pumpkins.

Then it was meeting the others and adorable baby. They just eat and eat and eat and poo and eat and poo......

They were wonderful to be amongst and felt they loved our company....they were free of hardship and suffering.

The best part was the swim and soak and splash, elephants in heaven, squirting and having fun, and it was our highlight to date.

The morning flew by, several hours having fun and once back in camp a simple but tasty lunch was prepared for all of us.

3200 Baht is an absolute steal at this price and worth every penny. Knowing the money goes to the camp, staff, food and elephants I now felt ashamed at the start, thinking I was being overcharged.

Come to a sanctuary in Chiang Mai, and avoid the sit on parks.

Next trip was the long neck tribe who were kind of refugees from Burma or Myanmar who have being given homes on the edge of a park where you can see them make shawls, scarfs etc......females wear these bronze metal rings around their necks from the age of 5.....it gives them long straight necks which is a sign of beauty and can have a total of 35 at later age.

Did not enjoy this at all, they seemed unhappy, forced labour and exploited. The Thai government gets the 500 Baht entrance fee and supposedly anything you buy is theirs. Hmmmmmmm not sure.

We were in and out in 20 mins and only bought a couple of items as we felt sorry for them.

Next stop was the orchid and butterfly farm which was interesting especially in my business but seen so many like this across the world, so it didn’t have any additional wow factor.

We asked to avoid the final part of the tour......shopping....as didn’t want to purchase jewels, leather, silk etc.......and be told “very special price today,just for you” Sigh.........

So we asked Charlie to take us to traditional food market, I want to see insects, different fruits and vegetables and buy flowers.

Chiang Mai Central was the stop for this and couldn’t resist buying green mango, mangosteen, cashew nuts, longan fruit and bouquets of flowers for our room and nibbles later.

Back at hotel around 1730 ready for a Chang, shower and some food.

The best Tom Yan soup ever, wine and a Thai whisky followed and by 2100 was ready for bed.

What a day, shall dream elephants all night!

One thing to point out right now, is since arriving in Chiang Mai I have been comfortable wearing shorts and jeans, it’s warm/hot here but not unbearable so don’t ditch the trousers if travelling this time of year, in fact half the tourists I saw today wore T-shirt, jeans and flip flops.

No set plans we just wandered and as expected temples sprung at most streets and corners.

We did get a map guide but did not use it decided it was best to just wander, turn, look, wander etc.....

By midday I needed my coconut fix so decided to stop in a very basic street cafe establishment near the craft and history museum.....was offered the menu and was not really hungry but saw they had the Kao Soi which is their famous noodle dish.....40 Baht for a mushroom version I had to try.

Omg as they say in the pop world, new entry straight to number 1......Kao Soi entered my culinary Thai food No1, I slurped, guzzled, noodle gravied down my shirt, chin was a mess and licked the bowl clean, although I was not hungry....this is my new death row final meal!

There are chicken and pork variations and all come with small appetiser pots of cabbage, chilli, lime, onion to add to the mix.

I was so intoxicated with this experience I forgot to take a photo! But don’t worry I’m back in the week and will stay all day.

After that feast we decided massage time,I went for foot, Karen neck and shoulders, this was a different experience as all the masseurs were ex prisoners, to help them get back into society, great idea, although I did think was the tough lady an axe murderer and tortured as she pulled by toes and bent my feet!

Karen: I was led to a different part of the building to where Justin was and handed what can only be described as inmate fatigues to change into. I was then told to lie on an inch thick mattress and covered with a blanket - in 30 degree heat! Soon after my masseuse appeared and it was then I had to fight the urge to run. “Don’t worry” she said, “ hurt little, then be nice”.

Very quickly she discovered several stress knots in my shoulders which, in her wisdom, required kneeding with her elbows while kneeling on my bottom. The stress knots seemed to get larger as the “massage” continued possibly due to the occasional chuckle that emitted from my torturer each time I tried unsuccessfully to stifle a wimper.

The experience culminated in my arms being pinned behind my back and head as my interrogator from hell crouched \240behind and yanked me sharply backwards causing each vertebrae to pop out of their sockets!

Little did she know that we welsh girls are made of stronger stuff and all my friends secrets are still safe with me. having said that I will be keeping the light on tonight as I might have nightmares!

Justin: After the great massage we flagged down a tuk tuk and bartered to 150 Baht to take us back to Lanna Dusita, this allowed us to relax and my first dip in a pool, yes 7 days and first time in water!

That evening I ate another Kao Soi this time with chicken but not quite as good as the rundown shack at lunchtime, but still very satisfying. Plus a wonderful spicy papaya salad, they asked how hot, I jokingly said 100 chilli, and I think they actually did as it was rather hot and numbing.

Food had a soporific effect and by 1000 we were tucked up in bed ready for our 0700 start for trip to the mountains!

Still dreaming elephants and Nellie!

Our first port of call was the highest point at this park, impressive yes of over 2500 metres and it’s part of the Himalayas but to be honest it’s not worth it, no vantage points for photos, just a small Buddha statue and shrine and few cafes. We spent less than 10 minutes here.

Next on the list was slightly further down and the King and Queen Pagoda. Two shrines/temples standing proud opposite each other surrounded by great views of Myanmar in the distance and lovely gardens. 40 Baht gets you in and we took an hour to wander, drink some organic mulberry juice, photos and a couple of pee stops in very good toilets....ladies don’t expect to find tissue paper in any toilets.

Video of entrance

A delightful blue sky but take a look above, yes that does really say 13C.....it’s chilly, shorts and T-shirt’s might not be enough at this altitude.

Lady gardeners

Karen looking at Myanmar.

Our next port of call was Hmong market which was another 1km further down which was a great place to buy fresh organic strawberries or mulberries plus assorted other fruits, some fresh some dried. We also found some great honey with the comb inside for just over a 100 Baht a jar. Most stalls however are repetitive, I just went for the kindest smile and soul and bought from her.

Our guide then suggested lunch as he wanted to prepare us for our big forest trek and said we need energy, so just next to Hmong was a kind of school dinners arranged food hall, packed with Thais and tourists alike.

Hmong market

School dinners

Another amazing dish of steamed squid and vegetables in lemon juice

Karen went for forest mushroom curry and said it was best meal to date!

All for I believe 400 Baht plus a ginger and lemongrass salad and water, coffee and fruit.

Ten minutes later we were at the entrance to Mae Pan Nature Trail, and met by Somboon, our guide plus Charlie our other guide who has never done this trek so he came too. More the merrier.

This kind of thing is right up my street, trekking, foraging, snakes, spiders, waterfalls, bridges, wild and dangerous.

Poor Charlie did struggle at first and was worried for him as it’s not easy on foot, steep paths going up and down, slippery surfaces, big drops and rickety bridges were all in our way.

But this was unbelievable, it was like being in the deep rainforest, we hardly saw anyone, sounds of waterfalls were amazing and thunderous from the caverns below, then tiny Somboon would sneak off and show me all the medicinal trees.

We chewed on quinine bark, munched on cinnamon, drank fresh water from a section of tree branch, found the tree where Tiger Balm is derived from and there is a tree which is just like sandpaper, the green leaves file your nails and the older and brown ones will sharpen and fine tune blades. This forest was a complete pharmacy.

Several plateaus in the distance were now growing strawberries and chrysanthemums but only a year ago it was full of poppies for opium production, but now Thailand has banned all of poppy production with severe prison sentences.

I wondered if Somboon was still smoking some, he showed me his pouch of tobacco with banana leaf as his roll ups, he said it was a mixture of herbs and plants, wish I tried some now.

Video of Somboon’s “baccy”

Somboon took us deeper and kept saying bigger waterfalls.....I was in awe of Number 1 but he was right they got louder.

Charlie loving being our guide but his first time too!

Holding onto Karen just in case

Rear selfie, not going on Facebook

Video of OMG waterfall.

You can imagine how we felt by now, seeing the real,green verdant pastures of Chiang Mai, and as locals say you do have to get out of the city to see these wonders.

Our trek after the waterfalls ran further round further bends and noticed several large pipes that looked like irrigation tubing, these were connected via the constant water supply from the falls and were then running into strawberry plantations, coffee bean orchards and rice fields at the lowest levels.

We saw cheery ladies working, wild buffalo and shacks and homes on stilts amongst organic paradise.

Our final stop over 2 hours later was to test the natural coffee brew in another well worked bamboo home.

Tasted so good after grinding the beans, managed 3 espressos and bought a pack to take home.

What a fantastic trip, we actually thought this was the end of today’s trek, but Charlie and Meen said one more waterfall.........another? Are there more?

So another km further down we arrived at Wachirathan waterfall, named after the current king I believe.

It gets better, gobsmacked, this huge 80 to 100metre monster soaked everyone standing 50 metres away. But was worth it. Was told it’s quiet now, after rains twice as big!!

Video of Wacirithan

What a day, worked out including entrances and lunch around 3000 Baht for private van and guide/s.

Well well well worth it.

It was then a 1 and half hour back to hotel and we were still grinning as we opened our hotel door.

Highlight to date, with the elephants.

Tomorrow is rest day I think.....we shall see.

Entrance gates

Opposite is the local fire department so no worries about hotel burning down really

A small temple further down the road.

As mentioned at the start we did book a river room but were given 111 which yes, it’s possible, with a craned neck and tip toe to see River Ping but not quite what we expected. But next day it was 221 and that’s more like it, lovely if not perhaps best room to sit on the terrace.

Our pad Thai!

Its peaceful here, breakfast is adequate and restaurant Wai has no set hours until last orders at 2130 so you can eat lunch and dinner to suit yourself and the choice and flavours are very good. However expect to pay more than in town or from street food markets, but you expect that.

One major drawback possibly is not having other dining options by foot. I would say the closest is 700/800/900 metres away along a minor yet busy road, so night time walking is restricted.

So there are 2 free shuttles into town only at 1030 and 1830, and they get booked quickly, so you might have to find your own taxi or tuk tuk, costing around 150/200 Baht.

Personally for us we are happy to explore fully by day and retire here early evening, then relax, eat and bedtime as we have plenty of evening walks when in Phuket next week.

The pool is actually quite cold, I took a dip and goosebumps appeared instantly and as there are many big trees, there isn’t much sunbathing available, but surely Chiang Mai is not for getting a tan.

For those interested we booked direct with hotel and it gave us a supposed 60% discount which I cannot know for sure but not complain as it works out at around 52 pounds a night.

I asked the receptionist if I could fish the Ping River later, think she did not understand so I had to play Give us a Clue with her and pretending to cast and show a gobbling fish eating a hook. She looked alarmed and ran to manager!

Chinese guests also looked at me rather oddly. However she must have understood as I got thumbs up and “yes,fish...ok”

Let’s see later shall we.

My, hopefully, fishing platform when tourists go out!

By 1300 I found a quiet spot and went armed looking for bait at the restaurant kitchen. Try asking for bait....sigh!

I said corn.

Answer “No corn’

I said bread

Answer “No bread”

I did try and play Give us a Clue again trying to show bread in toaster, there is tons of it at breakfast.

Answer “No bread”

I tried chicken

Answer “ok chicken”

Expecting some cooked pieces I was given some raw breast.

At least by hook would have something, but needless to say I could have had more luck maybe with a Licorice Allsort, but nevertheless two hours of casting, waving at fishing boats and the peace and relaxation was perfect.

Lovely river views

Billy no mates

After a late siesta it was dinner as usual with a great noodle tofu curry and to bed early again as tomorrow was mammoth exciting tour and needed Karen fit for this, so another shot of ginger, galangal, herbs and honey and lights out!

This is a very old temple, well relatively perhaps at 600 years old, and set in lush rainforest and jungle and more waterfalls and beauty.

Apparently it gets often overlooked and not many tourists visit, we were quite alone, all the better, no charge and great places just to sit and absorb the area.

Some parts were being restored and you will see many areas here and all temples with hundreds of collection boxes, yo keep areas maintained and add more buddhas.

I did sit for a while and did feel I was being watched however.....you know you get that feeling so I peered left and right....nothing....then skywards....Yikes!

Nearly as big as your hand, guide says it can eat reptiles....time to move on..

Apart from this fella I well recommend an hour just for the solace and to be away from the crowds before you head further up the mountain to the other sites.

Second stop was close to this mountain summit and the road is full of hairpin bends. Not a very safe stretch too as once again no Highway Code in force so was bit squeaky bum time especially at the end where the road is just a bumpy track.

Thirty minutes later we each Doi Pui H’mong village which is a mixture of smaller temples, lovely gardens and a winding village of shops leading up to the viewpoints.

Initially I thought here we go again, more selling and polite no thank you’s, but it was very entertaining and we were with Charlie our guide who helped explain most things. As far as I can understand the village comprises of an ancient Chinese tribe, although they looked Thai....but clothing and produce was very much of Chinese influence.

First stop was bow and arrow and hit the gourd for 10Baht, no goldfish or teddy prize just hit the gourd. Karen despite her blocked sinuses scored 3 out of 3....did expect to take gourd as prize...but no such luck.

You meander then through stalls at very cheap prices, I ended up buying snow lotus and munching it raw and reishi mushrooms that’s boiled into a tea....I did expect severe hallucinations but nothing happened so I continued the climb still consuming this lovely snow lotus....which tastes raw like a melon but it looks like a yam and it’s an aquatic plant....very good for everything apparently.

My snow lotus being prepared

Hallucinating mushroom tea lady

Me buying it but not sure if I will die

Long winding stalls.

Finally you get to this lovely green plateau, beautiful poinsettias, coffee plants, rhododendrons, and trumpet trees....a lovely oasis and thriving community live here.

And right at the top a panoramic coffee bar where I think I had the best ever brew to date.

The descent is pretty much the same but you see some food stalls and interesting potions plus plenty of raw honey in bottles.

This we thoroughly enjoyed and if you like culture, weird and wonderful foods, handmade fabrics plus green and colourful pastures then come here. Two hours flew by and could have easily taken some lunch too.

Michelin star at H’mong village

All food looks delicious here.

So naturally we were getting bit hungry but guide Charlie and Meen said one more visit then eat.

We went back down 2km and to BhuBing Palace owned by the king.

Now to be honest I expected more, you pay a cheap admission fee, pass a couple of security police and basically walk up a tarmac road. Most areas are out of bounds and you can see buildings or residences but you are ushered through gardens and further tarmac roads.

After an hour you are sweating hoping to see something at the summit but road goes down again.

So that’s all I’m going to say, definitely great for building up an appetite.

Kings residence?

Nice paths going up here though

Caught three monks

Best bit, then downhill again.

It was 1330 by now and tummy was growling and we were ushered by Charlie to this place.

Heavenly again, I had noodle soup, pork and dumpling.......could have wet my pants there and then....delicious and big bowl for 60 Baht. Karen had mashed mushrooms which despite the description they were not pounded, but a selection of wild forest mushrooms in Thai sauce and mint! Yes mint....and mint and mushrooms really work together.

Washed down with fresh coconut again.

Our final stop was Doi Suthep temple another 2 km downhill.

50Baht each gets you in plus a vernicular to the temple otherwise you have to walk 287 steps to see it ( I counted on the way down)

Charlie gave us an hour here and it was just enough time. Quite stunning once you get past the lift queue, Buddha relics, shrines, statues and gold everywhere.

With stunning views of Chiang Mai below.

Very impressive.

After 287 steps we were quite exhausted and ordered our trip back home and got in just after 1700.

We even managed to drop off laundry on the way and pick up on return, cleaned, ironed and pressed for 210 Baht.

A lovely day on the outskirts of Chiang Mai.

What’s in store tomorrow?

Until then let’s wait........ more elephant dreams x

So first port of call was Wat Chedi Luang, reason for this, was based on hearing you could meet monks at sitting areas and speak about their lives, your lives and basically ask anything you wish. It’s purpose was for monks to learn more English so it was a kind of school lesson for them to practice.

We were both excited about this. Upon arrival to the temple, we marvelled again at the colours and architecture, they even have wax dummies that look so real, on one occasion we actually asked how long have they been meditating!

Dead or Alive?

Plenty of rules to abide with here and like most temples you have to dress appropriately, so don’t expect to get in with shorts and vest tops!

After 45 minutes we saw several monks looking for willing English speaking tourists, we did not hesitate.

This was immensely enjoyable, ages ranging from 21 to 26 and enrolments up to 8 years to date,they were very interesting, wise, understanding and humble. Old souls indeed.

Our topics ranged from wars, genocide, life after death, meditation, greed and their everyday schedules.

They laughed and joked with us and discussed their dreams even, conscious and subconscious.

Most of them originated from Laos and will return after their studying here in Chiang Mai.

One of the highlights to date.

Over an hours discussions we sat and drank coconut juice and pondered on their answers and philosophy.

Our next planned pit stop \240was a massage and Karen wanted a pedicure, so we ambled down streets and picked what took our fancy.

A pretty little outdoor terrace and bowing ladies tempted us into the doors and we chose our seats and picked from the menu. Then ten minutes later a very large man/lady/ladyboy/ entered the shop who I thought might be the owner, he/she/thingy took a photo of me and rubbed my feet, and said I needed pedicure too.....

I was aware my heels were very dry and cracked and they were right, but before I had chance to say anything, Frankie was on her knees ( it was a ladyman) with razor in hand.

Karen at this stage was crying with laughter, I just did as I was told. Give credit where it’s due Frankie turned my feet into babies soles and marvelled at her handiwork but not his/her bra and cleavage.

Frankie

Frankie even applied clear nail varnish, I was scared to refuse in case I was put into a full or half Nelson as Frankie could I reckon take on most heavyweight boxers judging by hands and hairy arms!

Nevertheless I enjoyed the full experience and left with a bear hug with Frankie, new feet, and shiny nails.

Since found out she had worked there for over 13 years, not the boss however.

Great fun indeed.

With my fresh feet we walked at leisure and took in further temples and some lunch and by 1530 were ready to venture back.

Not real, waxed but so lifelike

Rest of the day was a relax, slow pack and dinner again at the hotel, in readiness for tomorrow’s trip to Phuket and to meet twin sister Odette!

Landed bang on time

Mr Kom, who was recommended by good friend Giles was waiting for us and ready to take us to The Westin Siray Bay for next 2 nights.

We are gold members of the Marriott and SPG program which I highly recommend to people as the perks are fantastic once you apply for an Amex Platinum card. More on that later in the blog.

It was actually raining when we arrived, albeit heavy short shower but didn’t dampen our spirits. Phuket however is going to be much warmer, we noticed that hairdryer heat once we exited the plane, so it’s going to be shorts and visiting the sea and pools over next 2 weeks.

As a gold member you get perks and we were upgraded to their huge 2 levelled suite. More on the room and Westin tomorrow.

But rest of evening was to relax, happy hour cocktails and dinner in Eest, their Thai restaurant.

Tomorrow will be a hotel explore, review of hotel and wait for excited twin sister to arrive early evening.

Lush lush lush

Lobby entrance

Our room 4336, top floor.

As expected from any Marriott/Starwood chain hotel of a 4 or 5 star category you will get an ample feed at breakfast. In Asian establishments they will cater for Western cuisine, Thai, Japanese and Chinese.

So for anyone trying this for the first time, basically breakfast could be lunch and dinner foods amalgamated in one hit. It’s also great for vegan and vegetarians. Quite simply you are spoilt for choice.

We both try to have a hearty mixed breakfast,then skip lunch, or just some fruit and eat again for dinner.

I started off with a mixed cold appetiser of all origins including their lovely pomelo ( large grapefruit).

Followed by vermicelli, red fish curry and ginger and cilantro.

Finished off with espresso, green tea muffin and bread and butter pudding morsel and maple syrup.

That should keep me going for the day! On our return to our Pad Thai, I couldn’t resist a dip at their private beach and a quick look at the pools.

View from Horizon pool

The Westin private beach

0830 all by ourselves

Had to go in!

Room 4336 lower floor view

The beach and water was amazing, so we quickly went back to the room and headed back to the beach.

Quick video on the beach from scruffy me!

As the tide went out we decided to explore the pools, so first stop is the Horizon. Was expecting it to be full, but only a dozen or less people, which was great and no problem with finding a sunbed.

Jacuzzi was amazing, I nearly fell asleep in there. Water lovely and cool as well.

We stayed for a few hours, 2 cocktails and then wandered over to Splash pool.

Lovely relax, probably the best day for doing nothing, just immersing in the facilities and pools.

We then wandered sleepily back to our room and decided to pack slowly and await for the grand arrival of twin Odette.

Bless her she had such a long journey and tight connecting flights, but at 2105 she made it!

Twin arrival.

It was then a quick room service and bottle of wine, plenty of hugs and kisses, and we were all in bed by 2230.

Big day tomorrow

This time however we decided to test out premier class on the Andaman Wavemaster. Basically you pay an extra 500 Baht per person for this “luxury”

What you get?

Porters carry your luggage over 2 or 3 moored boats, you have private deck and lounge on upper deck. Free water, coffee, tea and soft drinks plus croissants!

Air conditioning in lounge, comfy seats, exceptionally clean toilet and movie if you want.

Plus I suppose it’s not that busy, only 20 in this class, over 120 below.

So for ten pounds more or less think it’s worth it to be honest.

The trip was calm and lovely as ever. Odette was brimming with excitement and was loving to see her so happy. We toured quickly Phi Phi Leh before first stop in Tonsai and another stop anchored off for Long Beach.

Always wow

Long tail

Heading to Holiday Inn

Ferry stop and switch over

Tonsai harbour

After Tonsai it takes another 20 minutes to access hotels on Laemtong beach but this time we access the rear jetty. Those who have been here before came from beachside and were ferried via long tail boats which was like Hawaii 5 o. That stopped I think over a year ago and this entrance to be honest is quite awful.

Not the best entrance.

However we knew what it was like below so not to worry.

Then the heavens opened, yes it hammered down, and the tractor trip to hotel meant several got soaked including poor Karen!

Quite hilarious, only 30 minutes before was telling Odette it only rains at night!

Check in was quick but rooms not quite ready so we had a lunch and by 1330 we were ready to unpack for 507 and 508.

Review to follow later.

Then the heavens really opened.

Air conditioning off.

Jeans on

Jumper on

Umbrella out

Yeeha!

So we all decided to unpack, relax in room and be ready for Sunset Bar for 1700 and check this new area.

We had already been here twice in the past but the area at Sunset Bar has now been changed to include more accommodation, infinity pool, restaurant and the Sunset Bar.

On arrival noticed how new and plush it was, unfortunately there were too many clouds and further showers but it didn’t stop a couple of Mojitos arriving.

At 1900 we then decided to head down and try one of the themed barbecue buffets, albeit indoors.

Tonight was Asian buffet and all you can eat for 790 Baht which I thought was quite good value considered the choice. We are on an island so expect to pay slightly more than Phuket and cheaper still Chiang Mai.

Sushi and Sashimi

Plenty of duck recipes and lovely salads

Fish in abundance.

We were all fed and watered and as Odette was suffering first taste of jet lag, we ambled back to our beach cabins and bedtime hoping tomorrow we see blue skies!

Odette likes to swing

Breakfast was lovely and to be expected,but have noticed staff are very young and many are trainees, so there is sometimes a bit of confusion in ordering but we see it as quite funny and understanding of their situation.

However we noticed some guests looking a bit irate when not getting their point across.

For some reason I love Dim Sum for breakfast

After a good breakfast we walked the length of Laemtong beach and noticed many more establishments up and running now, more restaurants and bars plus it seemed newer constructions.

Prices have crept up but it has been 4 years, but I will still say I think of all the countries I have visited and (it’s currently 48), Portugal is so much cheaper!

The rest of the morning was about swimming, sunbathing and why you go to beach destinations.....relax.

Karen went for yoga while Odette and I did our meditation from the beach.

Water was warm but not like April in the past, still wonderful and slightly refreshing.

Found a pet

Karen after yoga

Tuppence

Threepence

Karen: I’ve been in to yoga for a while now and am lucky enough to have a fantastic teacher in Portugal but whenever we go away now I like to try a local class. Sometimes I’m disappointed as the standard isn’t as good as I have at home. Not today though. Cat, my yoga teacher for the morning looked and moved like a female kick boxer but her knowledge and flexibility meant she was able to develop a really challenging work out. I loved it and by the end, although dripping in sweat, I felt fantastic. It’s advertised as one of the offered guest experiences and at 500 BHT for approx. 1.5 hrs, it’s well worth it. Added to which, the view from the yoga room was stunning. It’s done on the top floor of the fitness centre in the open air ( plenty of fans to keep you cool) with expansive views over the bay. Wonderful. I’ve booked again for Friday 😁

For lunch we headed to Jasmine bar and restaurant. Owned by a Scotsman Peter and his Thai wife Aisla, they have been here 14 years. Since our last visit they have expanded and opened a second establishment which offers more Western foods.

Peter joined us for our Thai lunch and happily spoke about all things and drunk a few Chang’s with us. He has lost weight since going on a detox retreat, reason being he says he was consuming a few too many JD and coke!

Food is always lovely but again we noticed the price increases, even Peter says.

‘Thailand is no longer cheap’

However it was lovely to discuss Phi Phi with Peter. One thing I thanked him for was letting me know about fishing. I brought my rod and was hoping to cast out on this trip.

‘Big fine and year in prison’ Peter tells me! Yikes.......

He also informed us that authorities are thinking of banning all boat tours to Maya beach (still closed now) from Phuket.

And only trips to Maya will operate from Krabi and Phi Phi providing you stay on the islands for at least one night. He reckons this might come into force next year.

After lunch girls went for massage and I headed to the pools as it was low tide.

Heron of some sort

Plants have really grown since last trip 4 years ago

Sea kestrel

By 1700 it was pre pub drinks on the terrace, we always bring a bottle of gin or two to have a “bottoms up” on our balcony before heading out.

For dinner we decided to head down to the far end of the beach and watch the themed fire show on the beach. We saw this on our last visit and then it was a bit amateur and not very well choreographed.

But wow they have certainly improved.

Three nights a week you can eat and watch their show on the beach from 1930.

Food was good and relatively cheap, and like most hotels they had happy hour for two hours from 1800 to 2000, where it’s buy one get one free.

A lovely themed day and back by 2200.

Plan for today was Odettes decision.

And as it was still choppy, yet sea was clearer she wanted to stay on the beach while it was high tide.

Sky is blue, sun is hot...🥵

So after another ample breakfast we just headed down from terrace to the beach. It was also a first attempt for Odette at snorkelling, bizarrely she has never opened her eyes under water, despite wearing a mask 😷

I connected the GoPro and headed out to a reef but within a few minutes she panicked and returned to the beach. Might need some more practice!

By lunchtime it started to cloud over so we decided to walk to Phi Phi village which is about 20 minutes away. It’s like a small shanty town which is Moslem and has several bars, shops and massage parlours. Well worth a visit, drinks and nik naks are probably cheapest here on the island.

We all took in another refreshing coconut water and then stayed to have lunch at The Buffalo Bar.

New resort on walk in

Nice stroll and full of butterflies

The Buffalo Bar

Chips are welcome once in a while

My lovely Tom Yam and Ubon noodles

After lunch we all went for massage in the village and being half the price at 300 Baht compared to Laemtong beach it was well worth the walk.

Then the heavens opened and we took the moped taxi back to the resort. Yes all three of us....hilarious.

The next few hours was all about a tropical rainstorm, it belted down.......weird weather!

There was a slight lull at 1900 so we decided to head for the themed buffet tonight at Holiday Inn.

It was Italian tonight and was reasonably good, I did ask however for ice cream, one scoop...but young staff said sorry not in buffet....so would be extra charge.

I declined, thought Italy 🇮🇹 night would have at least had some Cornetto ice cream....not to worry.

Still a lovely day, but only real concern is the rough seas, longtail boats are not going out, but will take you to Tonsai in other direction only. Or you pay 5000 and go on speedboat......each!

Another cloudy start and choppy seas.....this is meant to be summer and peak season. I forgot to say last night I went to the buffet wearing jeans, yes denim trousers, as it was a mildish evening.

Is this actually global warming or cooling?

After breakfast I spoke to the activity centre at the resort and yes it was too rough for longtails. He did say we could go to Tonsai from the other direction if we wanted.

We decided to continue another day on land, hoping we might get flatter seas, and provisionally booked a 4 hour tour of the islands, beaches and snorkelling tomorrow. Fingers crossed 🤞.

Current weather above and it still shows plenty of rain though.

It’s not dampening the trip but do hope we can get one tour in while we are here, that’s why you come here.

So we will be exploring the new pool at the top end of the resort later, with spot of lunch.

Plus for the evening we want to try Chilli and Pepper, a tiny tree house of restaurant just outside the Holiday Inn Resort on way to Phi Phi village.

Weather permitting!

The infinity pool at The Sunset lounge is very relaxing but limited on seating options. Only 11 beds or bean bags, we were lucky, but others arrived later and had nowhere to lie down.

The pool is new and has lovely views but again felt it was quite small, with 8 to 10 people it was kind of full!

It’s more a selfie and posing pool to be honest.

This side was more sheltered and minimal wind so gets much hotter on this part of the resort.

So only 2 hours and a snack was all we could handle.

For dinner we headed do the Chilli and Pepper.

It’s been running for 7 years and it’s kind of a shanty on stilts restaurant.

Very basic but charming Thai couple run it with help from their sons. They must live behind.

Food however was excellent, owner is from Chiang Mai and he knows how to cook.

We ate 3 different dishes and plenty of cold beer, probably the cheapest restaurant on Laemtong.

Only ones here

First thing to the table is Off

Resident cat.

Another lovely day, and let’s hope tomorrow brings calm sea and sunshine

I highly recommend any trip that involves snorkelling especially over to Phi Phi Leh.

We stopped first after about 30 minutes to the iconic Maya Bay. It is closed off so you can anchor approx 100 metres away. I understand the reasoning to keep Maya Beach clean and the coral a chance to recover but viewing from 100 metres will never quite tick your boxes.

We did some snorkelling on the other side of the headland which was great.

Our trip included

Maya Bay

Loh Sama Bay

Pileh Bay

Viking Cave

Nui and Lanah Bay

1,600 Baht for the private longtail boat for the 3 of us, approximate time of 4-5 hours.

The water is turquoise and better than any postcard or camera can offer.

All the bays had great snorkelling options and you could wade to the beach on Pileh Bay.

But probably the best and clearest waters was back on Phi Phi Don and Lanah Bay.

An abundance of parrotfish, angelfish, pufferfish and stunning colours. This place was a real gem and worth a full morning here just to snorkel. I would say the highlight of today’s tour.

Lanah Bay

We returned to shore around 1400 and the flat seas we remembered 4 years ago were back.

So it was straight on the beach to soak up further sun, sea and summer loving.

Blissful Laemtong

For the evening we ventured to another themed buffet dinner at Holiday Inn, called Market garden.

Very well worth it and so much on offer.

Odette with her new gimp mask

This looked new

Huge banyan tree and commemorative garlands

Busy eclectic streets

Interesting faces

After buying a few souvenirs and touring the veg market shops Karen wanted to try the vegan and vegetarian restaurant.

After your order you are given Connect 4 while you wait!

Odette beat us all.

Food was delicious, all the base curries on offer then a choice of tofu, wild mushrooms and a myriad of vegetables.

Delicious and so much cheaper than your resort hotel.

Plenty of ATM machines here, plus great to stock up on provisions if needed.

I bought galangal, ginger and turmeric for my adventurous teas.

Three hours flew by and we then headed back, but could not dock from front of hotel as was just too rough, so we came from the pier behind, similar to the ferry arrival.

For our last evening we noticed a break in the clouds so decided to try again The Sunset Bar to hopefully see the great 🌅.

Wow, now I know why it gets its name.

This was one of the best spectacles I have seen in years.

If it’s sunny or partly cloudy get here from around 1730, and the next hour will be amazing.

All washed down with Bloody Marys, Mojito, and Karen’s new tipple The Godfather.

For dinner and last night we headed to Jasmines where the curries were delicious, and would say they serve the coldest beers on Laemtong.

After a lovely feed, bedtime for 2200 ready to leave tomorrow 😭.

I kept saying to Odette it’s normally calm and beautiful so at least she can now see it on the day we leave.

Leaving in 1 hour and look! Gorgeous

Never mind we had a wonderful 6 nights and saw everything, I think anything between 5 and 7 nights is ideal for a stay at Holiday Inn, it gives you a chance to see all the sights, different restaurants, bars, walks and trips.

Checkout is 1130 then to wait at the bar for the tractor 🚜 service to the ferry that departs at 1330.

The leaving Andaman Wavemaster.

Next stop Rassada Pier and taxi shuttle to the Marriott Merlin beach resort near Patong.

Yellow Kareng

So many pools

Just a tiny section of breakfast

Boxing 🥊

Will test this out

Pool number 28

Lovely open butterfly sanctuary

Karen ommmmming

In the afternoon we went snorkelling to the reef, we hired flippers and headed out approx 50 metres, and was breathtaking. Stunning fish and colours, we were told a 2 metre long turtle 🐢 has been seen here last week. Imagine if we saw that!

However it did not appear, but will try each day.

Snorkelling is only possible at high tide during the day, so you have a window of approx 4 hours to head out.

Will add GoPro video later.

By 1730 we were ready to test a cocktail or two and head to Patong in the shuttle bus.

On arrival at Jungceylon which is huge shopping centre we couldn’t resist a facial in this place. Bizarre but interesting set up and so 😌 relaxing.

Odette, Karen and me

Pinky detty

Yellow Karen

Grey me!

An hour later we were baby bottom smooth and clean.

Time for Bangla Road!

This street is simply a great people watching experience and a real eye opener.

Will go into more detail on next visit on Friday as plenty to cover!

4 hours later and plenty of Chang’s we stopped at this great homemade ice cream stall and bed then beckoned.

What a day and night!

Taro cakes

Lovely flowers and cheaper than chips

Ummmmm pass

A Pomelo, giant grapefruit being prepared.

We spent a couple of hours here, and bought bunches of flowers, gingers, chilli, galangal, 🌿 herbs....just as they were so cheap!

Next stop was Phuket city viewpoint, in a kind of park, families walking, taking photos and leg stretching!

While here we noticed a sign saying to feed 🐵 monkeys.

You bought some fruit and a man then hand gestured to follow him. Mr Kom knew nothing about it, and looked a bit perplexed, however we followed the guide downhill and after some bag rattling and calls they arrived.

They were very friendly and did not snatch, I told Mr Kom he should offer this in his tour.

Next port of call was Phuket Town, where the girls bought some souvenirs and we had a cold beer.

Interested buildings in Phuket town

Smiling monk.

After this short drink break we were taken to Chalong Temple, Odette’s \240first real taste of palaces, it was wonderful.

And finally the best to last Big Buddha, and Odette even had her own monk blessing.

This last photo had a kitchen with free vegetarian food it was some of the best I have tried here in Thailand to date, and as it’s a free offering to the monks the public are also welcome to dine.

To finish the day we went to Kata Noi where I had planned to get some short sleeved tailored shirts. I used the same guy Johnny when on our last trip with friends to Thailand and they are in excellent condition after 4 years. I have decided to minimalise after this trip and give all my excess shirts to charity and just keep these tailored ones.

The girls couldn’t resist a few dresses as well at such good prices, however you must be prepared to barter!

Another great day, evening was a buffet at the Marriott, and bedtime.

Final measurements for girls birthday dresses.

The entrance and lunch area

The girls and Nellies

Itching time

So much fun for everyone

Cutest babies

All encouraged to swim with the gang

I couldn’t take more shots with my camera as we all were in swimming with the herd, in fear of damaging iPads,phones etc....but there is a Facebook page you can check out called Green elephant sanctuary park, and you can see everyone getting hands on, dirty and saturated.

The three hours felt like seconds but this memory will remain a lifetime.

We returned by 1300 and the room was decorated

So thoughtful, and fresh fruit, cakes and treats kept coming.

A few dips in the pool followed and we planned to hit the town around 5pm for sunset cocktails and dinner in Joes Downstairs Patong Beach.

Even kid section looks fun

Final days view

Fire and dance show

Stunning cocktails and view

A beautiful sunset

Final night

Rum time

Lobby entrance

Unfortunately this was perhaps the first time we had to wait until 1430 until check in. They had a 99% occupancy rate and despite our Gold Elite status they could not get us in. However they did promise the delay meant we would get an upgraded room to a Garden Cabana.

Large u shaped pool

Our Garden Cabana.

Once we were settled and partly unpacked we decided to dine at the Fish Bar at the hotel and a couple of Mojitos.

We would explore in the morning.

All Marriott chains have slight differences and generally the rooms are very large and staff super friendly especially in Asia. But often can’t understand why they set you up a mini bar where the prices are so high, especially when most often, there is a supermarket next door or close by. We have seen so many guests buy refreshments and snacks and even eat by the pool. Just lower your prices by 50% and I would think most would then buy direct from the hotel......me included!

Fruit salad and coconut cake!

And a rosella and ginger tea

Perfect start, ideal for the planned explore and beach walk.

The hotel is smaller than Merlin beach and despite the pool being long in length, it’s shorter width made it look and feel more busy with just a dozen or more guests swimming.

There are also limited sunbeds by the pool, counted only 24, so if you intend to stay all day here you might have to lay your towel down before breakfast!

But we intended to walk to Nai Yang village from the lovely huge sandy beach which is a popular turtle 🐢 egg laying beach.

The tide goes out very far, and there are warnings as expected from fast moving tides. It’s full of sand and being so flat you would need to walk a mile to get out of your depth, so it’s a kind of wallow beach. It’s not crystal clear however, so don’t bring your snorkelling gear.

Wife and nearby airport from Nai Yang

Beautiful sandy beach and wife

View back to our hotel

After 15 minutes you reach a simple but organised chaos little village where you can eat, drink beer, massages, supermarkets and chemists. All vying for your services, we stocked up on some natural medicines in the pharmacy and the girl recommended a place next door for lunch.

Karen voted it the best curry to date and I finally found my favourite dish....steamed squid with lemon and chilli...wow

The perfect Thai dish

Remember the name

Can’t miss the coloured design from the beach walk.

Once fed and watered we planned a foot massage, didn’t read the sign but as we were being slavered in oil the lady told us she was the only massage shop to use emu.....yes emu oil.......

How do they extract that? I don’t want to know.....but the foot massage was the best so far...this time no submission and could of nodded off.

Road runner oil.

The rest of the day was spent packing and plenty of hassle with AirAsia trying to increase weight allowance for next flight. It’s a bit like a Ryanair and it’s add on policies, but for some reason it did not accept my card online so thankfully the reception staff helped out by calling direct and I managed to speak to a human and pay over the phone.....same credit card, no problem.

If we decided to wait and pay at the airport the costs were three times higher per kilo, so don’t fall into that trap.

All quiet at 3am.

The journey from Phuket is only just over an hour and twenty minutes and we are expecting hotter temperatures as it’s bang in the tropics.

We were handed out a customs and entry form on the plane and we were aware beforehand that a visa is needed. You could apply online but we decided to do ours direct from the Siem Reap airport hoping the early flight meant less queuing.

Forms handed out in transit before landing.

Siem Reap is quite a small airport but very functional and efficient. We were right in assuming the queues would be less, another visa form awaited to be filled in with a photo.....(if you don’t bring a current one, expect another queue and extra few dollars)

Then it’s 30 dollars each per visa.

Your passport is then shuffled through several people at desks, and you are told to wait......but it was less than 5 minutes before our visa was granted.

Then it’s another check at booth to see all is in order,and a customs declaration and finally ready to pick up luggage.

All in all approx 30 minutes from landing.

The hotel we will be staying is called Model Angkor on the periphery of Siem Reap main town and a porter was waiting.

He told us to wait before he brought his vehicle........and hey presto...this was it!

How the hell do you get everything in this

No problem Mr Chang says.

So that’s a first.....tuk tuk from airport to hotel.....Yeeha!

I want this taxi!

Tuk tuks are everywhere and we soon noticed it’s the most common form of transport

Ten minutes later we arrived at Model Angkor hotel, our residence for next 10 days.

Rather than travel again we decided to use this as our base to immerse ourself in new cultures, explore temples and learn a new life from their perspective.

Our entrance.

The hotel is very Moorish in design with lovely ornate furnishings and has 2 lovely pools, one fresh and one salt water.

As we were early we had to wait a couple of hours until we could get our room, and it was very hot so took the opportunity to cool off in the pool.

Cool off time

Plenty of wildlife around, this skink was a foot long.

By 1230 we had our room and as to be expected lol, Karen had pre mentioned about my birthday so drumroll.......It was Happy Birthday again and another lovely cake.

I seem a giant here!

We then settled and unpacked and by early evening we took first tuk tuk to Pub Street I town, where it all happens.

It’s a bit Bangla road without the ladyboys, or known as Asia Magaluf, however we found it a safe, exciting area with lots happening and friendly faces. Plenty of bars and restaurants of different styles and service to accommodate all. You will find some begging and young children trying to sell trinkets plus hundreds of tuk tuk drivers to take you around at “cheap price”

So be prepared to barter on everything.

Pub Street

Markets everywhere, this is your local dried fish seller.

Scorpion, tarantula, snake....

Pub Street is a people watching paradise, so we found a seat, ate some Fish Amok and watched the evening go by.......until 2230, and tuk tuk home...great first day.

Lovely salt pool.

The hotel itself caters for around 25 rooms and suites, so full capacity would be around 50 to 60 people I would envisage.

The rooms are very big, some with huge central bath and a shower that could fit a dozen. It is 5 star but it’s not what Westerners would consider as this rating. I would say 3.5 starred in equivalent, but I’m not complaining by the way.

We are not the typical Trip Advisor complainers but expect to see and hear geckos, lizards, mosquitoes, odd cockroaches and cats hunting mice. All part of the package I say!

These lizards are a foot long.

The morning was spent lazing by this pool and it’s very hot, so shade at most times is essential otherwise you will get very burnt.

For the afternoon I decided to look for a different activity, something around a couple of hours and a taste of the life here.

As Karen is an artist I surprised her and suggested we have an art lesson painting with spoons! Actually found out this was palette knife which is Karen’s favourite style in oil painting.

For 20 dollars each we were picked up and taken to a shanty area by our host Sy. He is a graduate who now teaches and sells his oil and acrylic paintings.

Its booked by an organisation called Backyard Street Academy where a host of artists help teach tourists their craft trades, the individuals themselves cannot afford to set up their own enterprises so with this academy it helps them to earn and give the tourists and clients a taste of street teaching art. Lessons range from metalwork, stone carving, making recycled bags, as well as walking and food tours.

Karen of course was well experienced and did not inform Sy of her teaching quality, she wanted to see their style.

I have never painted using the “spoon” and oddly Sy did not offer too much advice and let us interpret the work, only offering how to apply and stroke the spoon.

So imagine how I felt when after 2 hours I created this.

My version of monks heading to a floating village.

Karen: I’ve often spent time looking around artist galleries in Asia and marvelled at the high standard of work, so when Justin suggested we go to a class I was really excited.

I decided not to tell the artist or organisers of my profession as an artist/teacher as I didn’t want the artist to feel uncomfortable and I wanted to see how his teaching style compared to mine. Plus I was there to learn. There is so much I still don’t know about painting so I was really looking forward to find out new techniques.

The classroom was no more than a lean-to on the side of a small cabin set in the corner of a builders yard with the name “Democratic Party Office” emblazoned above the gate! The floors of all buildings here are kept swept clean with a soft feathered broom and you are expected to keep them that way by removing your shoes before entering. This place was no exception even though you are just a step up from the dust and grime of the builders yard and the room in question has no walls!

Our easels were set up ready for us with two small canvases awaiting our masterpieces. Our teacher then gave us a collection of photographs from which we could copy. After our choice was made he then squeezed out the oil paints we were to use on to a well worn chipboard palette, scraping away the dried up old oil into a mounting sculpture that would look at home in any modern art gallery.

Amazingly for me, he used fish oil as his medium rather than the linseed oil favoured in the west and his paints were low grade Chinese versions which included the rather more toxic Zinc White, but when in Rome...

Justin did struggle a bit to begin with as Sy, our teacher, wasn’t terribly forthcoming when it came to actual instruction and I was determined not to step in myself as that would have given the game away. Although twice during our two hour ‘lesson’ Sy jumped on his motorbike and disappeared for about 15 mins each. Once to go collect his daughter from school and the second to take her to another activity, during which time I surepticiously helped Justin with his ‘spooning’ technique!

The end result was delightful😈😉

Karen’s masterpiece

Attentive pupils

The artist Sy

After this lovely lesson we noticed we were practically next door to The Killing Fields museum.

Karen: We’ve all read about and seen the film and before coming here I made sure to read a bit more about the tragic history the people here have endured. It’s a very sobering fact that the average age here is just 24 years old, with practically an entire generation wiped out in the genocide of the Khymer Rouge regime. So being told that the dilapidated selection of buildings opposite was dedicated to that memory was quite a shock. Not that the buildings themselves look any better or worse than others in the city - we are of course, in a country only recently emerging from the dark ages of a civil war, but it’s a testament to the Bhuddist philosophy of the people that refuse to glorify a past that they wish to put behind them. Old enemies still have to live together and go forward as friends so it’s not surprising that in this museum with such a provocative name, the only inference to its purpose is a central pagoda with glass panels protecting the bones of numerous victims.

Shrines within

We have both said that Cambodia is full of surprises and just to typify that fact, tucked away in a corner of the complex was a European charity doing free sterilisations and emergency surgery on cats and dogs - in the open air protected by nothing more than a corrugated roof. We were told that they come once a month and that people travel from as far as Phnom Phen to bring their animals.

Live open air sterilisation

Cats and dogs all collected and treated including vaccinations.

We returned to the hotel courtesy of the eager tuk tuk driver and after quick shower headed back into town for dinner.

We sampled a typical Khmer restaurant washed down with peppercorn Mojito, or two......or was it three.

Mojito number 3

A fish curry and the trimmings.

By 2200 we were exhausted, tiddly, satiated and ready to go home to bed.

Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Today’s schedule

View of one of the suites and it’s massive bath.

For the evening I wanted to test out one of the better cuisine options, I always like to try in each destination what is revered as the higher end restaurants. That doesn’t necessarily mean the most expensive, but something that’s recommended, reviewed and has different fusion options based on the country’s cuisine.

So a simple online booking and acceptance took us at 2000 to MALIS restaurant and was enough for Karen to test out one of her hand tailored dresses.

I decided to choose a tasting menu which was 30 dollars and included 5 courses, with delights such as stuffed cuttlefish, roasted spring chicken, fish amok, an organic wild pork sausage with ginger pickles, plus more!

Karen had an amazing mango and dried fish and fresh flower salad.

Seated in the atrium

Karen’s mango salad was delicious

My pork tasting menu dish

The trio of cuttlefish, chicken and fish amok.

Overall it was delicious and special mention to the dessert, I did not get a photo but basically it’s a jasmine scented mousse, which had a creme brûlée similarity......absolutely amazing.

Total bill with a treat of a bottle of wine came to 80 dollars, which yes is expensive for here but compared to Europe not at all and would highly recommend.

Time for more Zzzzzzzzzz and the do not disturb sign!

Good night

Morning view

Decorated cow.

This morning I felt a little delicate, putting it down to adjusting to Khmer cuisine as I immersed in it fully yesterday. No nausea or stomach cramps but wanted to be relatively close to our room, just in case...you know what I mean.

I spent the morning fixing our itineraries, we wanted to hire a tuk tuk for at least 3 days to see the sights but as it’s peak season this is not easy, plus I wanted someone I could engage with and ask plenty of questions and hire for the 3 days.

Unfortunately but to be expected English is spoken freely within Siem Reap but not conversely, you will get by and be understood but it’s difficult to engage and get good advice and ask questions regarding temples, culture etc...

So we have arranged 2 different drivers for days 25,26 and 27 see the blog in the next few days for what we think are exciting trips!

Lunch and mid afternoon was again spent increasing some Vitamin D levels, and drinking plenty of water and by 4pm I felt hungry and was ready to head into town again.

But typical me, always ready to take on the fast and furious, decided to visit Bugs cafe....yes you heard correctly.

Bugs and critters are commonly eaten here and it’s not just a novelty. During the Khmer Rouge regime food was very scarce so villagers ate high proteined insects 🐜 including ants, scorpions 🦂 and tarantulas.....

Rather than explain in more detail, I think the video below covers all.

Please watch above, although XXX rating.

Burp...burp and burp again, an experience and glad I tried, not totally horrific and but not overly enjoyable.

Karen bless her watched in horror and still yet to be allowed a kiss,in fear of seeing remains of a scorpion claw.

Luckily 5 shops further down there was a vegan cafe and Karen managed to restore some order in mankind by eating a spinach pizza.

We trundled around more markets afterwards then headed back for a sneaky skinny dip or in my case a portly dip and ready for bedtime by 10pm.

The girls.

They have both worked at the hotel for over a year and are so warm and friendly, they also both want to improve their English so we suggested if they would like to join us on our cultural tour planned for Xmas Day. It was if Santa had arrived early, they were so excited, but we had to discuss first with their manager if it was at all possible. After some phone calls and staff shuffling it was granted and they were like giggling children brimming with excitement that they were off on a trip tomorrow with us.

It made us feel very special too.

That evening we dined at the hotel, not wanting to eat foods too delicate, in case we suffer from the infamous Cambodian belly! So tonight we stuck with slightly western foods, and were treated to a free cocktail session of 2 hours including tapas!

One word of warning regarding the food, we have noticed out and about, especially on the street markets and stalls that MSG, monosodium glutamate is used in abundance in dishes. We have seen first hand rice dishes being prepared and adding teaspoons of white powder....it’s MSG. Not very nice and luckily our hotel bans it from all their cooking, so it’s worth checking beforehand your hotel or restaurant

Lovely Karen and her new outfit

The hotel and Xmas lights

Our free non MSG tapas.

Instead of cocktails we drank wine, first time in a while, and continued talking with the staff.

A relaxed evening and Xmas eve.....big day tomorrow and all excited including Suly and Saran.

Khmer Market sellers

Colours and smells everywhere

The movie couple, their gorgeous noses, and their adoptive girls

A myriad of vegetables

Ra told us what they adored in us was our eyes and noses, they wanted my big honker Roman nose....all Cambodians pray their new borns have big noses and straight from birth they will pinch the babies nose every day in hope it will grow......I am not making this up

Suly and Saran verified the story and said as infants they had their nose pulled.

They wish to have pale skin, blue eyes and a Barry Manilow snorter.

Yet in the Western world many yearn for tanned skin, brown eyes and a cute button nose.....you see the grass always seems greener.

We spent an hour here at the market and Ra told us it’s quite possible we are the first Westerners seen by some people, as some of the village folk never leave, a distance of 80km is like travelling across the world.

As we left to further swooning and giggles I caught a glimpse in the window of my nose and decided I will start to 😍 love it....

Another 30 minutes drive we reached our village destination, \240it looked like a poor, shanty town with houses on stilts and tin shacks and oxen and chickens everywhere. Everyone waved, perhaps news filtered through the big nose couple had arrived.

Our view from the village

Rice, rice and more rice

Ra our guide.

Once we had arrived we were offered fruit and water and Ra explained our day schedule and we were expected to work!

So without further ado, we were herded into the tractor and headed to the rice fields.

Off to work

Karen and Saran.

Life here is all about rice, and it must be carefully planted, guarded, harvested and replanted....there is no respite or day off......if rice fails then it’s potentially famine or starvation for this village.....everyone must pull their weight including us today.

Karen trying her best to plant rice, despite having to work in squelching thick soil above the ankles.

This is 6 month rice.

We learnt how to transplant juvenile rice and place in separate paddy fields, you can now understand that this is a 12 hour day, every day for the farmers and most of the time you are bent 90 degrees.

The tractor brought us back in readiness for a cooking class, simple food but delicious.

Spring rolls using rice paper and turmeric pancakes and fillings.

The ingredients are simple but there is a knack, they all must be perfect but it’s not easy. Balancing correct oil, smoking point, amount of filling, and avoiding burning needs to be without fault.

Pancake prep

Karen won the spring roll competition

Chef at work

The girls enjoying themselves.

We were then ushered to our table and sit and enjoy our food. Khmer tradition says you must not talk at mealtimes.....we nattered however.

Lunch is ready.

Following this we were encouraged to learn about traditional wedding culture and of course to dress in costume.

You can see I hit the jackpot with three wives but as most Khmer men are barely over 5 feet tall I struggled to look the part in the dress and felt I was more atune to the lead singer of Showaddywaddy.

The girls however looked gorgeous.

More tea and traditional desserts arrived before we were to roam the village and meet the life and soul of what makes it tick.

It’s so humbling here, despite being poor they are rich in happiness and health. No smiles were forced, people rose from their hammocks, children ran to hold hands, even dogs wagged their tails.

To others it might look like squalor and depravity but look beyond the basic furniture, kitchen equipment, and vehicles, it’s full of love, kindness and respect.

There is no electric or WiFi, sleep is centred around the sun. When it’s first light at 5.30am everyone wakes and works. Sunset is just after 6pm, and everything is quiet and silent.

The fridge is a cupboard in the shade, food is preserved by drying, toilet a hole in the floor, washing machine is soap and elbow grease by hand.

Families often weave to make their rugs and mats

Oxen roam the village but only used to work. I asked about making milk, cheese and yoghurt....and they don’t know how to make, never been taught.

This village lady adored Karen and wouldn’t let her go. She allowed us to see her home and was so proud. She lived through Khmer Rouge.

Karen: what a perfect day. I have been so touched by the people here, and this dear lady - who looks and is treated like a grandma (which of course, she is) is actually 3 years younger than me! To think of the horrors she - like so many others lucky enough to survive the era of Phol Pot - lived through, and still be so warm and generous is humbling beyond words. The memory of her loving hugs and huge smile will stay with me forever as representative of the beautiful people in this overlooked country.

Children always happy

A honey bee nest in a tamarind tree.

Finally we were taken to the local school to meet pupils, gatecrash a lesson and play. We offered some pencils to the teacher and I even gave my hat away to a lucky boy.

There is no mobile phone here, or seemed bullying, the kids laughed and shrieked as they played basic games like kicking an old ball or knocking down a plastic bottle with a flip flop!

Offering our gifts

Wherever I leave my hat, that’s my home

Arriving in class

Bundles of excitement

Today was truly exhilarating, we could cry with love, the warmth emanating from this village should shame others in our world who only focus on accumulating wealth with no generosity.

Buddha teaches respect, love and giving.....it’s all here.

The trip back to the hotel was in silence, pondering on our day, this day, Xmas day. We felt we gave a little, from gifts and taking this tour, but nothing in comparison you what we received in love and happiness from this simple village.

To finish the day we dined at the hotel, and I had one more Santa 🎅 gift to offer. On this trip I had been looking for somebody who loves to fish, a family who grew up close to the sea or river where fishing is an important job or pastime.

There are 2 young men at the hotel who are best friends, and Mr.Ken fits this bill perfectly, every day off we goes fishing, but only with a net, a rod is a luxury they have only seen on YouTube.

So what better moment to give my telescopic fishing rod and all its equipment.

End to the perfect day.