Once they realised they could watch all the TV they wanted this pair were never going to sleep!

Arrived at 6am, a short kip later and we got out to see the city. Starting with the canal boats- cheap and fun public transport

Our first big old statue at Wat Saket Ratchawora Mahawihan…

This is a huge temple dating back to the 1700s, with great views of the city from the top. Thunderstorm approaching…

After the rains passed we ran into some Asian Monitor Lizards in the park!

They looked pretty fierce but they are mostly harmless.

Next to “Wat Pho” one of Bangkoks biggest and most extensive temple complexes

Golden statue, one of many more!

One of the absolute highlights was catching the monks at their afternoon chanting! We were able to go in and sit amongst them, they were very accommodating of some gormless tourists. It was really special to witness.

Reclining Buddha!! Huge. 46m long and 15m tall. That’s a lot of gold.

Kids were knackered so we bailed to a rooftop bar with more incredible views, across the river Chao Phraya to the Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan

And back, to Wat Pho

Then a wander amongst the alleyways of old Bangkok, the street life is fascinating here

Finally, a mad tuktuk ride home. The kids absolutely love them!

It is Jonas’s birthday! So after a late and jet-lagged start, we sat together in our tiny hostel room whilst he opened some gifts from us all. Thanks to everyone who sent him birthday wishes!

Everyone is still suffering the effects of the long flight so we had a late start before taking the sky train and metro across to Khlong Toei wet market, the largest in Bangkok. These markets still serve a big boss and peoples lives out here.

The sky train is very modern and very cool!

The kids loved seeing the wide variety of foods on offer, and I think it was eye opening for them to see how so many of the locals live, and the conditions in which they work.

After that everyone was a bit hot and tired, so we went to Terminal 21, mainly for the food court that was recommended by my friend and our expert local guide, Anthony.

Sadly I forgot to take any photos in the mall but the kids were delighted by the high tech toilet seats so they get a mention!

We’d asked Jonas what he most wanted to do on his birthday. He chose the Aquarium (SeaLife Bangkok) which is in the opulent Siam Paragon mall.

Sadly I forgot to take any shots of the mall itself, it was very glamorous! \240Not the sort of place we’re used to being in at all, and a stark contrast to the morning in the market. Everything was very clearly aimed at the most wealthy in society, and we saw a tall mixture of people there, from Asians, to Arabs, Europeans and Americans.

His request for his birthday dinner was Italian, so we treated him to Bolognaise at a tourist restaurant. The highlight was the Happy Birthday serenade from the staff, turns out Thai people sing it to a different tune!

The end of another busy day

We’re leaving city tomorrow…

Enjoying a stroll around the Bangkok streets after lunch

It was time to leave our hostel, which had served needs but not much else! Basic at best!

Packed up and ready to move on

The kids are doing a good job of looking after their stuff and carrying it around for short distances.

Ready to travel to Pak Chong

Saskia loves her rucksack and has embraced the packing cubes!

In the afternoon we arrived in a resort just North of Pak Chong. Very nice to be somewhere quiet after the bustle of Bangkok. This is our base for 2 days of trekking in the nearby Khao Yao National Park now before we return to Bangkok to get the night train to Chiang Mai.

Our transport down motorways and through the National Park for 2 days. Who needs seatbelts anyway 🤣

Sambar deer

A quick drink stop by the river before a trek

Leech socks for everyone over trousers - happily they did the trick!

Massive golden web spider - we saw lots of these!

Our guide made “bunnies” for the kids

Beautiful scenery

Long grass!

Evidence of bears climbing trees! They have big paws…

Climbing a huge fig tree

Sitting proudly a little way up the fig tree

Macaques

Hornbills

Bull elephant

Suitably warned, we enjoyed a trek in the woods, where Mai showed us lots of huge spiders, elephant droppings, bear scratches on trees, and lots of cool bugs and plants.

After lunch we did some more driving and looking for animals, then stopped off at this lovely waterfall which was in full force during the wet season.

After dinner we were lucky enough to spot hornbills then \240a bull elephant some distance away. They are solitary animals, only the girls live in herds.

The day ended with a night safari drive where we spotted a number of barking deer, some nightjars and more sambar deer. We were under strict instructions not to get out of the truck as this is hunting time for the carnivores. At the very end of our drive we spotted a single jackal in the darkness.

It’s been a long day and we are all knackered, but looking forward to some more adventure in this park tomorrow.

Everyone was a bit tired after another early start!

Oriental whip snake

Even the toilets aren’t safe from the macaques!

A hawk

Eagle-eyed

Lizard

Fungi

Waterfall

Underside of a golden web spider - these huge guys are everywhere!

Macaque family

Gibbons

Swimming in the natural spring pools

These guys had a great time together

A brisk climb up to the temple

Who has the angry mother? 🤣

The Naga

Jonas with one of the guards protecting the temple

There is a gibbon in there I promise!

Stowed the bags in left luggage for a few hours.

We enjoyed a very leisurely stroll through the park spotting white squirrels, turtles and a number of interesting looking birds before stumbling upon our favourite sighting of the walk, a mass outdoor exercise class complete with blaring music and very enthusiastic instructor!

Chatuchak Park - a lush oasis in the centre of Bangkok

It was hotter than it looks…

Turtle!

The kids were very relieved to finally arrive at our destination an - air-conditioned mall with food court at the northern end of the park.

And right next to the quiet park, this insanely busy intersection of highways. The network of footbridges and overpasses is pretty impressive!

We refilled with dinner, drinks and ice cream before taking the Metro directly back to the station to board the sleeper train to Chiang Mai.

Not ready to sleep 🤣

Nor Finn 🤪

And Jonas couldn’t “get into the sleep zone” for ages. They all got there in the end though. Mum and Dad relegated to the top, windowless bunks 🙄

The train

Good morning!

Not quite so bright!

Coffeeeeeeee (sort of)

The kids thought the on board toilets were hilarious - literally a squat hole with no formal drainage other than a hole directly onto the tracks below. I won’t share a photo of that 😳

There were some “European” toilets too, which held up remarkably well on a wobbly 14 hour journey!

The sleeper beds were packed away by the grumpiest train guard ever at about 10am. Jonas was very confused that the top row of beds had disappeared completely!

Chiang Mai!

Pleased to get off the train

Chiang Mai station

Never too early for a Chang beer when you’ve awake most of the night.

The kids got in on the caffeine hit too

Loving the local frappe drinks

We arrived in Chiang Mai and found a lovely spot for lunch right by the train station. Then a songthaew ride to the apartment we’re staying in for our time here.

After some rest we checked out the 150m rooftop infinity pool (17th floor) quickly before having to abandon ship as a storm rolled in. We’re due to get hit by the tail end of a typhoon over the next few days, so our plans will depend on how wet and windy it gets!

Pretty cool!

Kids loved it before the heavens opened

17th floor gum

Loving the pool

Relaxing by the pool

We then headed into the old centre of Chiang Mai for a bit of history and lunch. We met a brilliant street vendor who made everyone’s day with his charm and persuasion, getting Saskia involved in preparing Ben’s lunch, then getting Nienke to help whip up a super quick stir fry for the kids - no choice in the matter 🤣 The kids enjoyed having a bit of cash to go off and buy a fruit smoothie of their choice as well.

Making Ben’s larb

And dishing up!

No rest for the wicked 🙄

Enjoying their lunch

Jonas loves a mango smoothie!

After a stroll around the old centre we headed back to the apartment, and Nienke and Saskia went off for a pamper!

Saskia loved this!

Holiday nails!

Then it was time for more food! The night market was a hit with everyone, and the kids enjoyed choosing their food and then having a go at a shooting game (and winning plenty of random cuddly toys)!

Of course Jonas found a hot dog 🤣

Embracing the elephant trousers

Very excited to be allowed to shoot!

But not as excited as Jonas!

Nienke and Jonas then headed back whilst Finn, Saskia and Ben went to watch some Thai boxing 🥊

I’ve always found Buddhism fascinating. Growing up in Northern Ireland in the 90s, I had no exposure to it, but its pursuit of wisdom and contentment resonates deeply with me. The Buddha, a wealthy man who renounced his possessions in search of contentment and wisdom, is a story I can get behind. What a guy.

Lotus flowers

Lotus flowers

Cool Nagas or dragons

Elephants were a symbol of power as well as vital for agriculture and transport

Happy Buddha is always a fat man 🤣

The temple’s intricate sculptures of dragons, elephants, and guardians were captivating. I wished the kids shared my enthusiasm, but they were more interested in pizza. Our plan to relax by the pool was foiled by rain and the hotel’s monthly cleaning cycle. Instead, Nienke took the kids for a Thai massage while I enjoyed some book time.

(Addendum: the kids LOVE a massage!! Massive hit!)

Later, we’ll head to the night market for dinner and perhaps some fairground games.

My favorite moment today was sitting with Finn and Saskia, discussing the monks’ lives and hearing their thoughts on the difference between happiness, contentment, and wealth.

Fortunately, they are still at the age where they think pizza will still achieve 2/3 of those things for them. Long may it continue!

B

The kids had a great time (so did we!)

After some lunch, we made the most of some dry weather and enjoyed the rooftop pool at our condo building. \240

After a 🍺 on the balcony,

It was time to go back to the night market which was much livelier again tonight (last nights was a bit of a damp squib). The street food is amazing and today I finally tracked down some mango sticky rice for pudding- it has been highly recommended to me by a friend, he wasn’t wrong! Amazing stuff!

Saskia’s first elephant encounter

And Finn

Jonas wasn’t too sure at first, but quickly got into it

They’re pretty big even for the biggest of us!

Saskia and the 3 month old calf

Crossing the bridge over the river to the village

Finn approved of this far more than temples!

Houses on stilts to acoid water damage during the wet season

We fed these 2 huge amounts of food!

We were able to get up very close to the elephants and handle and feed them. They are happy to take food with their trunks or directly into their mouths which none of us realised were so narrow. We soon discovered that elephants don’t like to share their food and they tusselled over the long grass! Bananas and sugar cane were a great hit.

Big narrow mouths

And long trunks

They devoured sugar cane

Tussling over the grass

They are very clever how they tear the grass up into smaller pieces

In awe

And me!

We also helped make and administer “elephant medicine” - a mixture of tamarind leaves, salt, rice bran and banana - said to help look after their teeth.

Mashing the medicine mixture

Saskia got stuck in

Finn gave it a final good mash

We walked through the jungle with a few of the elephants, watching them drink and cool themselves from streams (and Ben got caught in the crossfire much to the kids’ delight), and cover themselves in mud to act as sunscreen and protection from insects.

Elephant in pursuit - thisnone was 60 years old and very happy to plod slowly

Our guide, Moomoo, told us the elephants lose pigmentation as they age

This elephant in front of us is pregnant

Between 2 huge elephants

Walking through the jungle with our guide and the elephants

After pasting itself in mud!

We then stopped to see a mother and her young calf (already a hefty 500kg). This little one was certainly more playful and active than the older elephants, romping around and clambouring over some seating.

The two littlest members of the team!

Off to its mum

Very cute!

The next delight was getting in the river with the huge creatures for everyone to cool off and clean up. They clearly love this, with a one of them lying completely submerged on its side, using its trunk as a snorkel!

The view up river

Everyone was very keen to get in the river!

I think this one loved it the most though!

After drying off the children helped our guide and another local prepare a meal for us all - fried rice, BBQ chicken, squash and mushroom stew (cooked in a large piece of bamboo) - all over an open fire.

BBQ with bamboo pot!

Cutting the herbs

Served on banana leaves with bamboo spoons. The kids loved this! Watermelon and rambutan for dessert and it was declared the best Thai meal yet by Finn and Saskia.

Fried rice wrapped in banana leaves

I lived the bamboo pot! And the stew was

After lunch it was bamboo rafting, a cross between gentle rapids and punting, then a trip to a waterfall.

A fabulous day, rounded off by another trip to the night market, more delicious food, then back to the apartment to sort some laundry before we head off to Hanoi tomorrow.

The first thing we noticed when we left the airport was the heat. It’s at least 5° or more hotter here than it was in the hills of Thailand. The next thing we noticed was the traffic. And always home too seas of motorbikes and there seems to be no Real form of order on the roads. The locals seem to have some kind of system but what it is we can’t tell. Whatever it is, it involves a lot of honking.

We checked into our little hotel which is lovely. The kids think it’s the poshest hotel they’ve ever been in, because the cowboy boy carried their bags up to the room for them.

It’s really not that fancy, but I’m glad they think it is! They are particularly taken with having their own hotel room (adjoining ours) and mini bar.

Everyone was hungry and getting a little grouchy so we knew we needed to take them out for some food pretty quickly. After a quick reccie on Google Maps, we picked a couple of likely looking spots. We navigated the chaotic streets in the heat to get to a café that we thought might meet everyone’s-quite specific- requirements, only to find their website was out of date and that it didn’t really serve much beyond drinks and French fries. We made the most of it and loaded up on some cold iced teas before carrying on.

Plan B was to cave in to the kids demands and take them to a likely looking pizza joint. We have generally insisted they eat local food here, with the occasional concession to their European/American tastes. Fortunately, the pizza joint was fully booked and turned us away at the door, so we chanced it with the good-looking Vietnamese eatery just down the street.

What followed was one of the best meals we’ve had all trip! We were excited about the Vietnamese food and this local place certainly didn’t disappoint. We even managed to persuade Jonas to try some spring rolls, which he devoured. This is a huge win for us as it’s been difficult to get him to eat local food beyond fruit smoothies and very bland dishes.

Special Pho!!

More pho!

Beef on skewers of lemongrass 🌶️

A massive win for the Lees’s!

I took a couple of photos but they don’t really do things justice, this place was the business. Everyone left with big smiles on their faces and very full stomachs, just as a thunderstorm rolled in. These are really common at night here, and they can be really dramatic, I’m sure we’ll see many more.

Bun cha! Basically tiny pork burgers in a sweet, fish sauce based broth. Can’t believe I’d not had this before, it’s amazing

Sweet dumplings

Bia hoi!

The “Bia Hoi” (cheap draught beer sold in the street, typically drunk on tiny plastic stools on the roadside) in Vietnam has come a long way since I was last here. When I was here some twenty years ago, the streets were full of extremely cheap draft beer, which was all San Miguel. Now, microbreweries and small operations have sprung up all over the place. There's a much wider selection of beers available, still at the low and local price of Bia Hoi. I haven't had too much opportunity to sample much of this on account of my traveling companions, but what I have had has been really good. It’s good to see the choice has improved!

Banh mi. Vietnam was a French colony until the 1950s, there is a huge French influence here still.

Good to know…

Egg coffee! Another local speciality, coffee with egg yolk. Really 👍

Everyone still enjoying themselves, although the heat was getting to Jonas a bit!

Next, we went to the famous train street to watch the afternoon train go through this narrow residential street. I don't know the history of how the city ended up with this layout, but the buildings and apartments push right up to the train tracks, and the resourceful Vietnamese have built bars and restaurants all along the train line itself.

There's only a few trains a day, and the locals seem to know the timetable off by heart. During the vast majority of the day when the train is not going through, the train track becomes a convenient thoroughfare and a pleasant pedestrian zone away from the stampede of motorbikes and cars on the surrounding roads.

Every day, as it gets near to train o'clock, the bars fill up with tourists who come to buy a drink and experience train street at its best as the train goes through. There was a distinct lack of European-style health and safety here. For instance, I noticed cars stuck on the pedestrian walkways or on the railway crossings right up until the moment when the train came through.

The safety of everyone on the road very much depended on the locals enforcing the rules and shouting at everyone to get out of the way when it was time for the train to come through. As with the roads in Hanoi, everything feels totally chaotic to an outsider, but they seem to have a system, and it seems to work.

We sat down, had a drink together, and then watched the train go through, so close that we could have reached out and touched it.

Here it comes!!

After this, the kids were pretty hot and bothered. So we grabbed a taxi back to our hotel and left him to relax in the AC for a bit. I took a stroll through Old Quarter in pursuit of a couple of errands. I enjoyed seeing how the Vietnamese group their shops. There will be a whole street of funeral parlors on one road, next a whole street of shoe shops, and then a whole street full of metal worker shops. It's fun just walking down these streets and watching people go about their jobs and business. I was especially impressed with the metal workers welding on the curbside in the heat.

Ladder shops!

Finally, we enjoyed a stroll around Hoan Kiem lake in the evening, followed by dinner at a little Vietnamese 🇻🇳 restaurant. Time for more bun cha, my new favourite!

This was the first cruise we’ve done as a family and in fact the first time Nienke or I have done something like this. Our experience of ships accommodation is the Portsmouth - Le Havre ferry!

This was totally different. We’d aged long ago that this was one of the parts of our trip we were prepared to spend much more on, in order to get out into the further reaches of the bay and escape the mass tourism that has sadly blighted Halong Bay. We were also a little nervous of safety on ships, sand wanted to ensure we worked with a really quality operator.

Where to begin? Bai Tu Long Bay is part of an archipelago of over 3000 islands. These are limestone “karsts”, or steep sided rock formations with water flooding the spaces in between. Something to do with being carved out by a dragons apparently, but I’m no geologist.

The scenery is simply amazing, and it was the major draw of north Vietnam for us. I’d visited on my tours 20 years ago, so it was interesting to see how the area had changed.

Sadly, it is much more developed now. There has been huge growth in the middle class in East Asia, and with it, huge growth in the volume of people pursuing “tourism”. I remember visiting Halong Bay when Northern Vietnam had a small tourist scene, now this area draws some 7 million tourists a year (compared to some ~1 million est. when I came in 2003)

The biggest shock for me was the volume of litter in the water. It was really upsetting to see the sheer volume of plastic debris throughout this beautiful place. I don’t recall this being a notable feature when I last visited. There was a typhoon about 10 days ago and the guides said the debris was particularly bad because of the storm but I’m not so sure.

We’ve been struck by the attitude to plastics in the countries we’ve visited. Everything is packaged to excess - in single use plastics. A cold drink might have a plastic cup, lid, straw, then a separate plastic bag to hold the cup. Each drink gets a separate bag. I’ve seen almost no ♻️ points anywhere, everything seems to be used once then go straight to “landfill” or worse.

I’ve seen documentaries raising the alarms about the health of our oceans but this was the most first hand experience I’ve had of the problem. We would be cruising past mind blowing beautiful scenery, with plastic litter all through the water, it is so sad. \240Even our “beach BBQ” (which was lovely!) was marred by plastic waste all across the beach.

Anyway to some photos. The scenery was amazing, and the food was superb too!

Vietnamese coffee is great! Really strong and lots of ice

Saskia loved learning to fold napkins with the crew

The cooks would carve fruit and vegetables for relaxation!

Carrot dragon!!

Saskia and I on a very hot trip to a fishing village

There are whole villages living amongst the islands. They have no electricity, they fish for a living, to eat and to trade, and they send their children to boarding school on the mainland. A very simple fisherman’s life, with whole families living this way for generations

After 3 wonderful days of cruising the beautiful bays and islands, back to Hanoi. We’re having a bit of a heatwave and it’s crazy hot 🥵 38 today

So we took the kids to see a Vietnamese Water Puppet show at the (air conditioned!) theatre. All in Vietnamese, none of us had a clue what was going on, but it was interesting and fun nonetheless. Think Punch and Judy, but the puppets are in water, the music and the dialogue is all in Vietnamese, thankfully a bit of slapstick humour transcends language!

Unicorn dance, I think!?!

Fairy dance?

Next, we surprised the kids with a trip to a “Cat Cafe”, of which there are many! You can enjoy a drink and cuddle a friendly furry animal.

Jonas loved feeding the cats some treats

Saskia enjoyed some model painting

Unfortunately there are some viruses doing the rounds so after lunch Nienke took Finn and Jonas back for a sleep. Saskia and I weren’t done, so we headed to a “board game cafe” next.

This is a cafe- run by board game nerds- who will make you a drink and recommend you to one of their vast library of games. \240They were very helpful, introducing us to some new games and showing us how to play, and the two of us spent a lovely couple of hours enjoying the air con and the games.

We built this huge tower together in one game

Before moving on to another game!

Finally we headed back home to catch up with the rest of the family. We headed out for a quiet local meal in the old quarter once the day cooled down a bit.

Tomorrow we are heading up into the mountains for a few days, so the heat should be a lot more bearable there.

Beautiful rice paddies

Jonas in the rice

Indigo dye hands

These people still use buffalo to plough their fields

Afterwards, some brother and sister pool time

Incredible views

What the stylish family is wearing right now

Steep climbs at the top!

Cool temples. Buddhas get fruit, bottled water, coffee and tins of biscuits apparently

100’000 tonnes of stone carried “manually” up the mountain!!!

Really steep

Leaving Sapa was, sadly, a bit of a relief due to its overtourism, aggressive touts, and rainy weather. \240The food was a bit ropey too which always mars my experience! In contrast, Hanoi offers a vibrant culinary scene, with delicious meals available at every corner for a great price.

We arrived back in Hanoi’s Old Quarter around 5 PM, and despite some of us feeling under the weather, we enjoyed a fantastic meal and a peaceful stroll through the night markets, where the streets are closed to traffic.

The next morning, the heat was intense—29°C and muggy by 7:30 AM. We spent some time in a quirky eco-themed café, sipping iced drinks and playing cards. Our driver then faced the notorious Hanoi traffic to get us on the road, taking an hour just to reach the highway.

Now, we're heading to Hoa Lu for some small-town relaxation, having booked a villa with a pool, perfect for the kids. Early morning sightseeing will be essential to avoid the intense midday heat. We're looking forward to exploring the rice paddies and limestone karsts, away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi's traffic.

Jonas included for scale

The heat here is relentless. Afternoons soar past 36°C, with humidity that clings to your skin. Thankfully, our rental has a refreshing pool. We’ve spent the last few afternoons cooling off before venturing out in the evenings.

This morning, we embarked on a rowboat tour of Trang An’s stunning landscape and cave system. The towering limestone karsts were breathtaking, rising dramatically from the valleys. These hills and river systems once served as defensive bases against the Yuan-Mongolians, whose horses couldn’t navigate the terrain.

Beautiful limestone karsts

Busy!

Cool bird statue like in Kung Fu panda

Cool pagoda.

Kids enjoyed feeding the carp in the river

The underground caves were incredible, with one of them stretching over 1km in length. Our guide rowed us through, revealing vast caverns hidden within the karsts. \240I was amazed by extent of the hidden world within the mountains.

We were a small group of Europeans amongst a sea of Asian tourists, from any number of nations! \240I couldn’t get over how \240impeccably dressed they were, despite the sweltering heat, snapping photos for their socials. We are amazed at the lengths people out here will go to, to get the perfect shot.

The “holding my hair” pose

The “looking into the distance” pose🙄

The heat tested everyone’s patience, but any bad tempers were mostly settled by some lunch and a cooldown in the pool.

Before the monstrous sweat…

The ascent in the heat was grueling. Armed with USB fans and icy water, we plodded up the hillside, seeking shade whenever possible. The kids were troopers, making it to the top without complaint. The view over Trang An landscape was breathtaking, though marred by selfie-seeking crowds.

On the descent, Nienke and I opted for a secondary peak while the kids headed down with money for ice cream. When we got down we found them happily munching their ice creams under a fan. We explored a few small caves, which paled in comparison to yesterday’s boat ride discoveries. The highlight for the kids? Feeding carp in the nearby lake—they spent nearly an hour engrossed.

Post-climb, we checked out some lotus fields, then treated ourselves to lunch at a quiet Vietnamese café, where the kids adored holding the owner’s new puppy.

Back at the villa, we cooled off in the pool and enjoyed a well-earned rest. I was proud of the kids today, this was a challenging climb in harsh conditions and it was quite an achievement for them to complete it as they did.

There’s 1.6km of this stuff!

Dancers

A much needed coconut shake!

We also touched on Cambodia’s modern history, a chilling reminder of the country’s past. The 1970s and 1980s saw a bloody revolution, civil war, and genocide under the Khmer Rouge, which claimed the lives of one in four Cambodians. While we’re avoiding the more harrowing historical sites for the kids’ sake, the weight of this history is palpable in every conversation with locals. It’s hard to reconcile the warmth and kindness of the people here with such a tragic past. Perhaps it’s this very history that has shaped their resilience and generosity.

After Angkor Wat, we refueled the kids with cold drinks and lunch before heading to Ta Prohm, famously known as the "Tomb Raider Temple." This site was easier to explore—shorter, shaded, and fascinating with its crumbling ruins and massive trees that have grown through the structures over centuries. We spent an hour wandering through the temple before retreating to a cool café for ice-cold drinks and returning to the villa for a refreshing dip in the pool. Tomorrow, we’ll visit a few more temples in the morning, relax in the afternoon, and cap the day with a visit to the circus.

Ta phrohm

Amazing huge old trees have taken over

They are massive!

Very hot, 🥵 still (mostly) smiling

Monkeys!

After Bayon, I quizzed Virak about Khmer desserts. I’m a huge fan of mango sticky rice from Thailand and was curious about Cambodian equivalents. Virak took us to a local food market near the temple, where we sampled three different puddings before 11 AM. Sticky rice with coconut and sugar plum fruit was a standout. Any day that starts with multiple desserts is a winner in my book.

Preparing sugar palm fruit

Steaming puddings

We followed this with iced coffee at a leafy hideaway before heading to Preah Kravan, the oldest temple we’d seen so far. The intricate carvings of Vishnu and the eagle-winged creature he rides on (still need to look up its name!) were fascinating. It struck me how much modern stories, like Gandalf’s eagles or Harry Potter’s hippogriffs, draw from these ancient myths.

After the temple tour, we retreated to our villa to cool off in the pool. Later, we headed to the Phare Circus, a social enterprise supporting aspiring artists from disadvantaged backgrounds. The acrobatics and storytelling were incredible, and it was a joy to catch up with friends from Cheltenham. The kids, who rarely see each other at home, got along brilliantly, making the evening even more special.

The next morning, we set out early again, this time to the floating villages of Chong Kneas on Tonle Sap Lake. The lake is vast, stretching 250 kilometers, and its size fluctuates dramatically between the wet and dry seasons. Around a million people live here, either in floating houses or homes on stilts. Floating houses are ideal for those who can afford them, but they require frequent relocation as the water levels change. Houses on stilts, while cheaper, mean packing up and moving to higher ground during the wet season.

We toured the village, seeing floating schools, shops, and even a police station. A highlight was a stop at a floating crocodile farm, where the kids held a baby crocodile and got tangled up with a python. It was a lot of fun!

During the tour, Virak shared insights into Cambodia’s wartime history. Under the Khmer Rouge, skilled fishermen were displaced to work on land, while those unfamiliar with fishing were sent to the lake. This strategy aimed to disorient and control the population. It’s hard to comprehend how such a dark period unfolded among these warm and resilient people.

Our final stop was the Apopo Landmine Rat Center, where we learned about the ongoing issue of unexploded landmines in Cambodia. Over a million landmines have been cleared, but an estimated five million remain. The center uses rats from Tanzania to sniff out explosives, a method far quicker than traditional metal detectors. These rats, clean and well-cared-for, have a strong bond with their handlers.

Hearing about the impact of landmines on everyday Cambodians was upsetting. Many victims, often amputees, struggle to make ends meet with minimal social support. It’s a stark reminder of the country’s painful past, but also of its resilience and hope for a brighter future.

Landmines, Cambodias hidden murderers

Hero rat at work!

Finally, the feet nibbling fish!!! £3 for a fishy pedicure!! Your kids watching their Dad squeal like a girl for the whole street to hear… priceless.

What a cracking day. From the ancient temples to the floating villages and the inspiring work at the landmine center, Cambodia continues to leave a lasting impression.

The next morning, after a few days of intense sightseeing, we opted for a more relaxed day. We took the kids to the botanical gardens for an hour to see the plants and some very sad looking ostriches. \240Mornings are often dry, but the afternoons and evenings bring heavy downpours, making door-to-door transport essential at times.

Feeding the fish in the gardens

After the gardens, we found a great coffee shop in Siem Reap, where we enjoyed drinks and a few rounds of Monopoly Deal.

Later, we returned to our villa to unwind—reading, swimming, and relaxing. Dinner that evening was at a cool Mexican-Khmer fusion restaurant, a hit with the kids.

One of the highlights of this week has been seeing how well our children got along with our friends’ kids. Despite the age differences—Sophie (14), Alex (12), Finn (12), Saskia (10), and little Jonas—they all get along like a house on fire. Jonas eventually retreated to his audiobook, but the others kept the card games going. It was great to see them bond so quickly, and they’re already looking forward to reuniting back in Cheltenham.

The heavy rains, while challenging, bring their own charms. The bullfrogs’ croaks fill the air, and today on our drive to the airport, we spotted water buffalo grazing in flooded fields, lying in the water to cool off.

Cambodia’s tourism industry has clearly invested heavily, but the post-pandemic recovery has been slow. Our brilliant guide shared how major tourism markets like Japan, China, and Thailand are now promoting domestic travel, leaving countries like Cambodia struggling. Siem Reap Airport, vast and beautifully appointed, was eerily empty during our departure. It’s clearly not experiencing anything like the traffic they’d hoped for.

The underemployment here was palpable. Tuk-tuk drivers and others eagerly sought work, offering their services and WhatsApp contacts at every opportunity. Everyone seems keen to work but the work just isn’t there.

The food was a highlight of our time here too. Cambodian cuisine, less spicy than Thai, features a lot of fish, reflecting the country’s geography with the Tonle Sap Lake and the Mekong River. We enjoyed mild curries and a delicious deep-fried whole fish with sweet and sour sauce. Sadly, I missed out on trying Amok, a coconut-based curry, but it’s on my list for next time.

As we bid farewell to Cambodia and fly to Phuket, we go with fond memories of this beautiful country. Despite its challenges, Cambodia’s charm, warmth, and natural wonders have left a lasting impression. I’d love to return and explore more extensively in the future.

Towel elephant!

Beautiful sunsets on the west facing beach

Always cheerful, my culture vulture Saskia

Lots of games of Marco Polo in the pool

We’re staying on the West Coast, which, unfortunately, is not safe for swimming due to the monsoon season. The strong winds and rip currents make the waters unsafe, but the beaches are gorgeous all the same. It’s a stark contrast to our honeymoon here in 2011, when the island felt quieter and less crowded. The tourism boom is undeniable now, with Russian visitors making up a huge proportion of the crowd. Menus are printed in both English and Russian, and it’s clear that Phuket has become a haven for many seeking respite from the challenges back home.

Our days have been quiet and relaxing, mostly spent at our resort. While the kids think it’s fancy, it’s actually quite basic—clean, functional, and with a touch of IKEA-style decor. The children are enjoying a breakfast buffet, and the interesting pool. We’re a bit of a walk from the main strip of Karon Beach, but the cooler weather has made the strolls manageable.

Yesterday, we ventured to the night market at nearby Kata Beach. It was a lively experience, though it felt more touristy and less authentic compared to the markets in Chiang Mai. The food options were overwhelming, so we opted for dinner at a simple Thai restaurant on the outskirts of the market.

The boys with their ice cream rolls

Mango sticky rice in different flavours!

The kids loved watching the ice cream roll stalls, where vendors pour an ice cream mix onto a frozen plate, churn it, and scrape it into delicate rolls. It’s a labor-intensive process but fascinating to watch—and delicious to eat!

This morning, the rain has kept us indoors. We’re planning a quiet few hours in our room or perhaps the hotel bar. If the rain persists, we might head to the nearby mall for a change of scenery. Tomorrow, we leave early for Bangkok, where we’ll spend 24 hours catching up with our good friends and meeting their new baby.

One of the highlights of our stay was a fun pool party yesterday. The kids had a blast splashing around in the foam, building foam men, and surprising each other with by jumping out the foam.

Phuket has been a mixed bag—beautiful but crowded, relaxing but inauthentic. Still, it’s been a good end to our adventure, giving us the downtime we need before heading home.

Lots of time for card games with my girls

The highlight of our final 24 hours in Bangkok was reconnecting with our dear friends, Anthony and Linda, and meeting their three-month-old baby, Kai. We arranged to meet at the Central Embassy Mall, a high-end shopping destination filled with designer labels that, while not our style, was home to some incredible food courts. We spent the afternoon catching up in the mall’s basement food court, and I got covered in baby sick- strong effort from Kai.

Later, after Linda and Kai headed home for bedtime, Anthony joined us for a last Thai \240dinner at a charming old Bangkok house set in lush gardens. The setting was the perfect backdrop for our final evening in the city, even though a couple of us are sub-par dealing with minor gut problems.

Exploring Bangkok’s Hidden Gems

Between our time at the mall and dinner, we took a stroll through Bangkok’s Arab Street, a vibrant area that felt like stepping into a North African city. The shops were adorned with Arabic signage, and the air was filled with the aroma of Middle Eastern cuisine. It was a fascinating contrast to the rest of Bangkok and a reminder of the city’s incredible diversity.

We also wandered through Bumrungrad International Hospital, not because we’re hospital tourists, but because I wanted to show the kids how healthcare can differ around the world. The opulence of the hospital concourse was staggering—it felt more like a luxury shopping mall than a medical facility. We walked past high-end restaurants, cafes, and fleets of expensive cars, sparking a conversation with Finn, about how healthcare is funded and accessed in different countries.

A Relaxing End to the Day

No trip to Thailand would be complete without a massage, and the kids had been begging for one since their last experience in Chiang Mai. We found a simple street-side massage parlor where a 30-minute session cost just £7.50. While the kids enjoyed their treatments, I sat with Jonas, whilst the others enjoyed some serious relaxation.

Saskia ready for massage!

Reflections on the Journey

As I look back on this trip, I’m struck by how much our children have grown. They’ve been exposed to parts of the world they had little understanding of before—crazy Southeast Asian cities, diverse foods, and cultures vastly different from their own. They’ve witnessed both the beauty and the challenges of the places we’ve visited, from the stunning landscapes to the stark poverty in some areas.

I hope this journey has given them a new perspective on their relatively sheltered life in England and Europe. I want them to return home with a deeper understanding of the world and a greater appreciation for the privileges they enjoy.

The Importance of Old Friendships

I’ve been reflecting on the joy of reconnecting with old friends. Spending time with Anthony and Linda reminded me of how important it is to have people in your life who know you so well that no amount of time apart can diminish the bond. They’ve recently moved to Bangkok from Seoul, and it was great to see my old, irascible, friend settling into a new life of adulting with baby Kai.

As we said our goodbyes, I felt grateful for friendships that endure across time and distance. I’m already looking forward to their next visit to the UK.

Final Thoughts

This trip has been a journey of discovery, not just for our kids but for all of us. We’ve explored new places, tried new foods, and made memories that will last a lifetime. I hope we’ve all gained a better understanding of the world and our place in it.

Farewell to Bangkok

We’re all a bit sad that our adventure is coming to an end, but we’re also all looking forward to sleeping in our own beds, and seeing friends and family at home. Saskia has just this morning given me her requests for our next travel adventure, so this one’s clearly gone down well!