I am recreating my first trip to South Africa from four days after I arrived. Why? Well first, \240because \240I was so stressed out on the actual day my trip began I could do nothing other than get myself in the car to go to the airport. (More about that later.) Second, I needed Emma to set up this journal for me. \240Maybe with time I could have done it for myself, but one advantage of having a tech savvy daughter is that when we are together, and she has time, she can just do this kind of stuff for me. Saves so much time and stress.

Stress is a word I used twice already in the first paragraph. \240In my day-to-day life, I don’t manage stress ( that’s 3x) very well without a great deal of effort. Both Emma and Toby have done so much to minimize my stress (are you counting?) over the last 4 years, that it got to the point that I found it stressful that they had to help me avoid stress.That’s not a joke. It was really true.

Since Emma left for South Africa 3 months ago, I have tried to look stress in the eye, (if not all the time, at least more than before) and tell it to “Fuck off” now and then. \240Having said that, I’m not even going to try to pretend that it is easy, and most of those who love me know that it isn’t. When I announced to everyone that I intended to visit Emma within her first 6 months in Cape Town, I might as well have said I intended to climb Mt Everest. My mother, Emma, and Toby appreciated more than mostothers, just what it was going to take for me to prepare for, much less survive, the trip. I admitted to friends and family that it would be challenging, but I downplayed even to myself, the extent to which I was terrified. To their credit, no one tried to talk me out of it, and most everyone were excited for me and for Emma as well.

It took me about 6 weeks to get ready. I shopped, I visualized what difficulties might have en route, and shopped some more. , Morrie and the cats {sounds like a teeny-bopper band from the 70’s) watched me try on and reject clothes, try on more clothes, and navigated the piles of maybes and probablies around our one-bedroom apt.

Jan 19 part three

Last night, my first in Cape Town, Emma took me to an upscale shopping plaza near Obz, called Palmyra Junction. We ate on the patio of a nice little place called Knead. I had an incredibly yummy veggie burger with avo ( avocado can be eaten here morning noon and night!) and other things \240that were delicious but I was too tired to identify. \240Just happy to be sitting outside on a warm day with Emma and Manny! \240I think I couldn’t yet fully wrap my head around that I was really, finally here!

In spite of my fatigue, I noticed pretty quickly that a significant number of children were roaming barefoot, in and out of restaurants and the grocery store! Then I noticed that some of the adults were barefoot as well! That’s definitely something we can’t do in Canada, even in warm weather!

To be cont’d.....

Jan 19 part two.

Emma arranged for her friend Nancy to pick me up since it was Shabbat morning and she had to be at the temple. She is an American expat and long time Rez of South Africa.

Nancy looked more like her pic that Emma had shared with me, than I looked like the one of me. I was a little green around the gills after the long journey, although I didn’t actually feel too terrible!

Jan 19-Entry #1

This entry will be a long one, covering a couple of days. Once I catch up I’m hoping to write up one day at a time

LONDON HEATHROW AIRPORT, JANUARY 19th, beginning at approx. 11:00 a.m.:

Made it through flight number one with flying colours, and yes, pun intended!

OK, perhaps for most travellers, surviving a 7 1/2 hr overnight flight isn’t all that monumental, but for me it was. I’ve never been all that wild about crossing over the Atlantic on my own. These days I find it all-the-more challenging. Anyway, I slept, watched a movie, got up once or twice was served an uninteresting breakfast, and got off the old, not terribly comfortable Brit Air plane, and into an old, uncomfortable wheelchair! One day I think I will write a review of the various airports I have seen from the vantage point of a wheelchair-assisted passenger, but to dwell on the aspects that are aggravating would be pretty boorish. I am truly grateful not to have to endure the long, painful walks to and from airplanes in my body as it is at the present.

As promised, David and Hannah were in the arrival hall to greet me. \240It was wonderful seeing their beautiful faces! After I freshened up, \240we sat at Costa drinking coffee and later had a light lunch there as well. The Jacobs had wanted to take me in to the city, specifically Finchley where I once lived as they do to this day, to get away from the airport for a while and see their new flat. It felt ungrateful of me, but I was worried that if there were to be even a minor mishap, I might miss my flight. I guess once in a car accident you see the potential for a repeat performance around not all, but many corners! David proposed an alternative; taking the short drive to Windsor to walk a bit and have a more interesting lunch. Yes, I am an ingrate. I rejected this suggestion as well!

So after a lovely few hours chatting about typical topics that friends of 40 years who see each other infrequently would cover, ( kids, grandkids, great- nieces and nephews, work, friends we have in common, politics and of course the Jewish world), they drove me from Terminal 5 where I had arrived, to Terminal 3 where I was to depart. I still had a few hours to kill before boarding my 2nd flight, so I changed in to clothes that would be more comfortable for an 11 hour flight, had a proper meal, did a little airport shopping, and finally settled down in the special assistance lounge, to watch the news and read. It wasn’t as comfortable as a first class lounge, but very accommodating that the airport provides a quiet and relatively comfortable place where people with special needs can wait for their flights.

The 11 hour leg of my trip wasn’t horrible. \240I had an aisle seat, a lovely South African woman had the window, and the seat in the middle was empty so we shared it for our books, blankets and pillows when not in use. Thank goodness, ‘cause we had precious little leg room. How do airline executives look at themselves in the mirror, chargingpassengers exorbitant amounts of money and cramming them in like sardines. Yes I know fuel is expensive, but REALLY....

I took the excellent advice I had been given not to worry about when to sleep (thanks Ellen!), and I just read, watched movies, noshed, ate the surprisingly yummy meals (dinner and a full breakfast), allowing sleep to come if and when it would. I did manage to have a couple of two hour “shluffs”, and one shorter one, and remembered to get up and move around every couple of hours as well.

Unfortunately, not having a window seat, I did not get to see Africa from the sky. It was more important to be on the aisle, freeing me to get up whenever I wanted. I usually gaze out airplane windows in wonder, but I did feel less hemmed in seated on the aisle. As usual, I looked like a crazy bag lady, frequently rummaging around in this carry-on and that, pulling out things to munch on, medications, reading glasses, travel blanket, pillow and other paraphernalia! Post accident I have also b come quite a klutz and generally end up with my shoes sliding forward under the seat of the guy in the row in front of me, my pillow falling on to the feet of the person behind me, ear phones and water bottles drop just out of reach under my legs. \240I am the “Pig Pen” of the airways. \240While admittedly I am a flying disaster area, I must also say in my own defence, that being prepared for this long trip was really helpful!

The hours didn’t “fly” by, but didn’t drag too much either.

I’m struggling with this journal app. It’s probably me, but it’s taking me so long with the learning curve and all the fixes. By the time I catch up to the real date, if I ever do, I will have forgotten so much. \240I may need to make a list at night of the things I want to capture when I get to the days they happened! \240Emma suggested less editing so I’ll try to resist fixing every typo and grammar error. \240Sorry Mom!

I’m writing this on Wed. Jan 23rd but will go back to Sunday the 20th. Manny is lying here beside me and was not enthusiastic about posing for a selfie.

Jan 21- part one still writing....

Monday Jan 21, part two up to morning Jan 22nd

Sadly, I’m not quite finished with the rant about the gate and parking pad!

When we returned from Mr Price, Emma parked on the street in front of her house because there is not enough room to unload the car inside the gate.

We happily brought in all of our finds and proceeded to part two of the process; decorating! \240Emma said she would bring the car in later. \240It was still a few hours before dark.

All around Obz with Emma.

Every house is different. Every street is different. It’s a diverse neighbourhood with properties that have been renovated, and others that are not aging with the kind of attention that would preserve them. Almost all are behind a gate of some kind.

Emma’s street is pretty quiet, although only one block from one of the main shopping thoroughfares. I think, overall, it looks more dilapidated than it really is, because with all the fencing and gates, one must look closely to see the condition and character of each home. And that’s if you can see through or over the fencing.

Emma left me on my own for a few hours, with instructions on how to walk to my hair appointment. ( I may never again be able blow dry my own hair. Not the worst thing in the world fo sure.)

We were invited tonight to the home of \240Nancy (who picked me up at the airport) and her husband Tony. \240I’m really looking forward to seeing Nancy again and even more excited to see her home. She had told me it was an old thatched roof farm house, now a suburban home. Thatched roof remains! I decided it was time to get my hair cleaned up since they were taking us out for a nice dinner after appetizers at their place.

I made it unscathed to the hair salon. It would have been less than an 8 minute walk but I wandered in to the wrong hair place first, and they pointed me toward the one where I had made the appointment. A nicely dressed, soft spoken young “ coloured” woman named Kayla showed me to her chair before taking me to the back to wash my hair. \240The reason any of this is note-worthy is that I had been pondering how a hair salon would go about conserving water. I was a little worried I’d be leaving with soap scum in my hair! As it turned out, \240Kayla didn’t leave the water running as much as a hair dresser in N America might, but my hair was squeaky clean when she was done!

I asked Kayla about her training, specifically if there was a school in CT or did she have to go far. \240The school she attended is located in Wynberg and she was impressed that I told her I knew where that was because that’s where Emma’s office is located. We had a nice chat.

After my hair was nicely washed and blow dried, I asked if there was a place to buy a pair of sandals. Kayla directed me to a place going out of business nearby, with everything 50% off! It was a tiny bit off the Main Street but not deserted, and I felt Emma had given me some clear guidelines to keep me safe ( for starters, keep your cell phone out of site-don’t talk on it or even hold it in your hand) Obz is definitely pulsing with life. Diverse in every way. Unsafe in some as well.

Once I assessed the situation, I felt it was safe. Glad I did. Bought a pair of imitation Crocs and a pretty little pair of pink wedgie “slip-slops”made in South Africa. So yes, that’s what they call flip flops here! Almost as cute as “hooting the hooter”!!! Paid around $7CND for the two pairs.

It DOES GET HUMID in summer after a rain. Why does almost nobody have ceiling fans here, let alone a.c.? After buying the shoes I had time to kill. Found a kind of trendy looking place called Obz Cafe, with open garage type doors but even they had no friggin fans!!! (Hairdresser had ceiling and floor fans thank Gd!

I ordered coffee, and sat watching life on Lower Main. It was a nice place but could have been anywhere, if not for the vibrant sounds and colours on the sidewalk. The open doors and windows let in the beautiful breeze.

The coffee, with an order of chips to go, came to 56 Rand including tip. That’s like $5.60 CND

Jan 23- evening

Nancy and Tony in front of their home in Wynberg near the temple site where Emma’s office is located.

This evening we had dinner at the home of the Saks family. They also live in Obz, just a few blocks away from Emma. \240The houses are a bit bigger, more family size and the properties more generous, but not enormous. Lovely and seemingly a bit more gentrified than Emma’s street, and Emma’s is more gentrified than some others. Subtle and by degrees. It is a blessing that they live so close to Emma, know everything about Obz, Cape Town and the new world Emma has parachuted in to, and they are generous beyond description!

Gill Saks and Emma became instant friends. \240Perhaps a blend of big sister/soul mate and colleague. \240Gill also works at Temple Israel, I believe as a kind of events coordinator. She is a kind, gentle, magical soul; I think she is in her early 40’s. Many times Emma has said she wouldn’t have made the transition as easily, if not for Gill. \240Not that it’s been easy, but having Gill was like landing on a cushion on a new planet!

Husband Danny ( kinda pronounced Den’-ee here) is also really lovely. Clearly a good husband and father, Dan is warm and has been supportive and helpful to Emma as well. He has a woodworking shop and so is very handy. When Emma’s boat came in (Tongue firmly in cheek- I mean when the shipment of her stuff arrive), Danny helped assemble her two new IKEA beds that were shipped in their packaging. He had never seen precisely how IKEA furniture is put together since the Swedes have not brought their concept to South Africa yet. Emma is quite good with IKEA furniture but it’s always good to have two sets of hands for the big pieces.

The Saks kids, Jacob and Ruby, are delightful teenagers; sixteen and fourteen respectively.

District 6 Museum

District 6 was an area of Cape Town, formerly called Zonenbloem, that was a vibrant, albeit ultimately overcrowded community that sounds like it must have been similar to New Orleans, and parts of NYC in the 1920’s. It was filled with jazz clubs and theatres, people on their stoops, music in the air. \240Under apartheid the government decided to make it a white area, forcibly removing around 60,00 people over a period of many years. \240There are people still alive, just a little older than me, who lived there and remember being pushed out and their neighbourhood razed. Some former residents of Zonenbloem volunteer as docents at the museum, leading tours and sharing their \240stories. We arrived at the wrong time so were not able to join one of the guided tours. \240

I’ll read the literature more closely to better understand the time frame...clearly this is one of the many examples of the cruel, hideous actions taken by the government under apartheid.

The neighbourhood is once again known as Zonenbloem.

Thurs Jan 24-part 2

View from the car, downtown, not far from the museum and about 10 min to Emma’s house. When we stopped to take the pic there were no cars behind us. Then of course a car appeared and was none too happy, so they “hooted their hooter”!!!! How funny is that? I may never say “ honked my horn” again!!

Evening

Too zonked to write much. \240Erev Shabbat at the downtown ( Green Point) location. It feels like Manhattan - upper west side, or Paris. Very expensive, elegant schmellegant part of town. \240Beautiful, clean and seemingly safe. Emma led a very lovely service and clearly the well-heeled crowd there really loves her.

Invited to dinner at the home of Diana and David. Two other couples and two older women were there as well. The area is called Sea Point,way up above the ocean near the entrance to Table Bay, \240and almost snuggly situated against the mountain called \240Signal Hill. If I hadn’t known better, I would have thought we were in Greece or Italy, overlooking the Mediterranean.

Before I say more about the views, I don’t want to forget to record my reflections on Emma’s relationships with some of the people I have met, most of whom are congregants. It ‘s crystal clear to me that there are a countless number of people who are already very fond of my girl. \240Many of the senior members, I’m referring especially to those my age and a bit older, feel paternal toward Emma, but also demonstrate a deep respect that she is their rabbi. \240They give her helful advice, invite her to their homes and generally seem thrilled with her impact on the community already. Even the men, who in many ways are chauvinistic, express real pride in her accomplishments. The gathering of people at Diana and David’s were all friendly to me as well, and keen to reassure me that she is safe and they are watching out for her. \240It is gratifying to hear, but I am not quite ready to say I have no concerns. \240Houses have walls and gates, some with barbed wire. Security systems are the norm. I know that Emma does take her safety seriously, I just hope she does not become complacent or lazy about the things she must always do and not do. Her second car break-in serves as a reminder I hope.kind of a drag that the only thing of any monetary value or importance was my cane with the fold down seat which I brought for our road trip. I don’t know if I could find anything comparable here, nor do I want to waste any of our precious time together looking, so I won’t worry about it and just do without. Whatever!

Back to Signal Hill, the breathtaking views, and beautiful, expensive homes. \240Hope the pics do it all justice. \240It was really quite spectacular. Before dinner we all sat on the terrace, with sliding glass walls behind us that brought the outdoors in to their house. The main topic of conversation for the first half hour was the large cruise ship that was close enough for us to see the large tv screen on the top deck. At first I thought it was heading out to sea, but realized quickly that it was floating with its bow pointed away from Table Bay which you can also see below and to my left. \240It changed direction every few minutes as the wind shifted. Our hosts explained that the cruise ship couldn’t come in to the bay to let passengers off and on because of the wicked winds we had over the last two days. Apparently it’s not safe to load people on gusty days like these. The ship was supposed to dock yesterday and we heard that there were people who missed flights as a result. Rumour had it a Canadian family was among them. How these details were known, I couldn’t say!

The ship is now supposed to dock in the wee hours of tomorrow morning. You can see it in a few of these pics, but most clearly over my left shoulder in the third one below! Sadly, the interesting pink toned “clouds” are really smoke from bush fires the other side of the mountain. No danger to us apparently.

The meal was served eventually, and it reminded me of Shabbat meals in England when we lived there in the late 70’s. \240Fried fish, “salads” including one with tinned peas swimming in a mayonnaise based sauce, and a tuna lasagna. \240It was all a lot tastier than it sounds! \240But the dessert was the best part. \240Not a heavy, rich chocolate cake, or anything of that sort. There were poached nectarines and an apricot “ pudding” which we would have called a mousse. Fruit here is really something. Better than California.

When it was time to leave, Emma pointed her Renault down the winding streets, across the city and back to Obz. \240We had to pack our bags and food for the road trip which we will set out on after Shabbat morning services. \240I am concerned that I will not make it out in the morning on Emma’s schedule, but I’m going to do my best. \240We found some CBD oil today that wasn’t as expensive as the $100 bottle we priced the first day. \240Hope it helps because I didn’t come this far to miss out on things because of pain. I think my fibromyalgia likes the climate though so that’s helping a lot.

One week down, a week and three quarters left. It is flying by all too quickly!

I guess I did manage to say quite a lot once I got started. I am enjoying writing again and maybe this journaling will push me back in to the habit of doing some writing every day, be it journaling, poetry, a letter to a friend; just need to get back to the practice of writing.

We had an unexpected visitor this morning. Emma found this little lizard in her kitchen sink! He was most likely thirsty. First time she has had a lizard drop in, but probably not the last. \240Emma is afraid of spiders, but not lizards, so we relocated him to a sunny wall outside. He was probably thirsty.

Jan 26 post #3

On the road after Shabbat lunch.

Got going around 3 pm and drove for about 3 hrs with a stop at an upscale farmer’s market. No time for reflection now. \240Just posting pics from the drive. \240Gorgeous mountain views.

Also ncluding some amazing video clips going through a mountain pass! Such a great adventure!

Jan 26 Entry #4 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Now that we are out of Cape Town, and passing more townships than I had seen in the city, Emma and I have started talking about the elephant in the room; yes pun intended. I’m not sure if I have already written that “ township” is just a euphemism for a slum.

In my first week in SA, socially I have met Jewish white people who I would consider both middle class and wealthy. Until today at Balu’s, the only black and “coloured” people I have interacted with have been serving me in some way; the jovial guys at the petrol stations, the young man who was my waiter at the Obz Cafe, the people working in the grocery stores, and Kayla who did my hair. There are also guys on every street, and in every parking lot who wear little vests with reflective strips and watch your car and guide you out of your space when you return. \240Most of the time \240they are not actually employed by anyone, and work for tips from drivers. It must feel a lot better than begging and it does help keep your car safe.

Of them all I would imagine Kayla, who is “coloured” ( did I already explain that’s what they call bi- or mixed racial here?) has the best chance for a decent life in Cape Town. She went to school and learned a trade that is always going to be in demand. As I have learned, black South Africans are still at the bottom of the societal ladder. It is going to take a long time for this to change but it does seem like there is good reason to be hopeful.

In the meantime, the townships are shocking; far far worse than I had imagined. In many of them you can see tin, one room shacks, with no indoor plumbing, held together with God only knows what. As we drove past I saw a man actually standing in a roof and peeing.

Every city has these townships, sometimes with wealthy neighbourhoods only metres away, usually with some sort of visual barrier to shield the wealthy from having to look at the truth from their comfortable homes. \240You cannot avoid seeing them though, along side of highways, and even next to city streets.

At first I really didn’t feel comfortable taking pictures; it seemed like some sort of voyeurism. I did eventually take take just one video as we drove by at high speed on the N1. You can pause it a few times to get a sense of how inhuman the conditions are. It was a township we passed when we left Cape Town.

Further along in our trip, we did pass some neighbourhoods adjacent to a township, with extremely modest, uniform houses, that Emma thought must be the government housing that is being built to provide for people living in townships. In one city we saw a neighbourhood like this, with acres and acres of rubble across the road, filled with debris that was obviously left behind when people moved from the slum life of a township, to a tiny house where at least they have real walls, a real roof and a real door. \240I pray that this gives people some hope, while the children go to school and in another generation or so, they might begin to have opportunities not possible during apartheid and in these years following the dismantling of it.

Here is the video:

Toby’s Birthday. Feels very far away. I guess because he is!

Beginning Shabbat morning service.opened the siddur to this quote from Rabbi Jonathan Magonet eho was one of Danny’s teachers at Leo Barack College in London. Lovely, brilliant man. He wrote, “there is something very \240holy about sleeep.” \240Oh yes. I yearn for more sleep! I can barely keep my eyes open through storag study altho of course Emma is making it very interesting!!

In the ladies room I saw these water conservation reminders. We are at Tenple Israel Wynberg:

Posts from Jan 26 are out of order.

This should be #2

Shabbat morning reflections.

I seem to have lost what I wrote about the service Emma led at Wynberg. \240I will recreate it another time. Interesting but too tired now.

Jan 26 post #3

Shabbat lunch.

What a special afternoon. I feel like I started to write about this already but don’t see it. Again, so tired I can’t write it all right just now, so just downloading the pics and will add the narrative later.

It was a few hours I will long remember. When I come back to it, I will recount a lovely, delicious and interesting afternoon. This Shabbat lunch was a wonderful and fascinating opportunity to peel the onion that is Cape Town and South Africa, seen of course through my North American, mostly Canadian lens.

The lunch was at the home of Batu and Ian’s in C....( I forget the name, but one suburb away from Wynberg i think!)

Jan 26-post # 6

Arrived at our first stop, an air b’n’b, a few hours drive from Cape Town, with one stop.

Our night will be spent at Do-Little Cottage; our hosts include 3 donkeys: Daisy, Sebastian and Marilyn.

Lovely place to decompress for an evening and a night, after a very full week and a lovely Shabbat filled to the brim with rich experiences but little time to breathe between each one.

Jan 27- entry #2

On the drive after lunch at Salinas, we went to find the Big Tree, reported to be 800 years old! It was located in Wildreness National Park.

It took some patience to precisely find it, but eventually Emma got us to the entrance. As we drove in, there was no one at the booth ( like our cousin Larry’s gig with the US Park Service during the government shut down!) but we noticed a sign that said at times there may be a charge for “use of the facilities”. In my mind I thought that meant use of the washrooms and showers if they had any. After we found the parking lot in a clearing, and made our way to another little entrance booth, the attendant told us there was a fee of 20R. \240We had no cash in Rand, but at another SA park Emma had visited, they took plastic, so she hadn’t thought this one might be different. \240There were no signs at his booth indicating there was a cost, let alone methods of payment, but the man said it was cash only.

We were a bit dubious, wondering if he was just scamming us, but regardless, we had no cash other than USD and we were kilometres away from any shops so obviously also no ATM to get cash. It was a good ol’ Texas style stand off (not that any of us were from Texas, but I imagine that’s what it’s like, minus guns!), with us pushing him to let us go by, and him repeatedly stating the fee. Eventually he gave in and we walked in to the woods.

Within a few steps along the path, I could feel the humidity. Not as intense as a rain forest would be, but enough that I felt my back, neck and shoulder pain intensifying by the second. Further proof that my body really does not like humidity! I was highly motivated to keep going because, for one, I really love being in the forest, and two, the Big Tree was only supposed to be about 80 metres down the path. I also didn’t want to disappoint Emma because this was one of the sites she had learned about in the weeks prior to my arrival and had planned for, knowing it was something we would both appreciate seeing.

Before we got there, we came across another interesting tree:

Jan 27- entry #1

Emma drove us 567 km today, not including a side trip to see an 800 year old tree. Stopped for a gorgeous lunch at Salinas in Wilderness. After lunch we walked across the beach to put our feet in the Indian Ocean!!! The sand was soft, smooth and very hot. \240I can’t really run so we suffered a bit getting there but it we didn’t consider turning back for a second. On the way back to the parking lot, somehow the sand seemed even hotter and the last couple of metres I was sure we had burned the soles of our feet. Cooled off in a puddle and all was well once again!

I’ll add some pics now and some more gorgeous views from the road another day. We are both exhausted and need to sleep, but I want to mention before I forget, that I added video of driving through Sir Lowry’s Pass yesterday, so if you read yesterday’s entries already but did not see those, I recommend going back! The videos came out so much better than I imagined they would. iPhone camera and HD technology are mind blowing!!!

After a somewhat unpleasant stay in a place in Colchester, we drove the 10 min to Addo National Park. \240Emma and I had really been looking forward to this part of the trip. The plan was to drive in, find the guides who reportedly “hop in” to your car and do a guided tour with you driving. We wanted to save money for the evening safari at sundown which was pricey but sounded like it would be amazing.

Things here are not always what we expect and it turned out that the hop-in guides are not guides plural is really one guide, singular, and you have to call him on his cell to find him. \240This didn’t seem like a good plan, so we did a self drive, using the guide with pictures and a map. \240The idea is, you do not get out of your car, EVER, unless in a designated area that is safe, otherwise, whenever you see an animal you can stop your car and watch what they are up to.

On our drive today we saw kudu and red hartebeests (two kinds of deer/ elk), big honkin’ buffalo ( nasty and dangerous), many adorable warthogs, and yay, many elephants. We were so excited when we saw our first elephant, was very young and all by himself. We wondered if he was an orphan, which we later found out was probably the case. He was possibly about 75 feet from us.

January 28th late afternoon and evening

Checking in to our chalet and getting ready for the Sundown Safari

We were two happy

Total elephant lovers by the time we pulled in at the main “camp”around 1:30, our plan was to check in, have lunch in the restaurant, then get settled in our chalet, and have a rest. Everything was based on being fed and rested before the sundown safariwhich we had signed up and paid for 545R each). Lots of animals appear around the watering holes in the evening, when it is cooler. The sundown safari would take us to places we couldn’t go ourselves, and the guide/driver would be able to answer the many questions we had asked each other on our self-drive safari earlier, and had no answers to.

Lunch was lovely, mostly covered al fresco style, and we ate happily reviewing the animals we had seen earlier. There was a car game in the map and animal guide for families to play, with point ranges for spotting different animals. For fun, Emma and I figured out how many points we had earned for the animals we had see thus far. Lunch was yummy too. Emma had a salad with shredded bbq steak on top and I had a really delicious crepe with spinach, feta and a creamy garlic sauce. I had expected a more basic, “African” menu, but I don’t even know what African is anymore, plus the selection obviously needed to cater to a wide variety of clientele. Overnight guests at Addo seemed to be largely European (many very rude, unfriendly Germans which I found both sad and disturbing since I have been to Germany, and know many Germans, and that has not been my experience before) as well as some jovial Brits and a smattering of South African Afrikaaners. The “camp” has a variety of levels of accommodation and ours was probably in the middle where comfort was concerned. There were houses with canvas panels for walls that had plumbing, but I’m not sure about electricity, and more high end houses for those looking for luxury.

The chalet was a thatched roof, semi-detached cottage, at the very edge of the camp, with the electric fence only about 8 feet from our patio. It was modest but comfortable and finished much nicer than the place we stayed the night before. Spacious too. The best parts were the patio overlooking a stretch of the lark where potentially I figured we MIGHT see some of the smaller animal and birds in the early morning, and a lovely French door looking out onto the patio, also with a bit of a the same view. These turned out to enable us to later see things we never thought we would from our own chalet.

Jan 28, part 3

The sundown safari was an experience we will never forget. Our guide took us off the roads we were allowed to take on our own. In case anyone is dubious about it, I want to say for the record and for the sake of my own memory as time fades the clarity, the animals that seem close in the photos, really were!

We boarded the super, sixteen-seater safari vehicle. As we searched for seats together, we had an unfortunate and unpleasant interaction with some humourless and decidedly unfriendly Germans. Unfortunate because they were characatures of how we used to think of Germans, and I know that is not the norm, at least these days. Unpleasant because they had spread out to give themselves window seats, leaving the aisle seats empty, even though many were couples, and no one wanted to make it possible for Emma and me to sit together. It all “got sorted”, as they say here, and worked out for the best as we ended up with front row seats and had a spectacular vantage point looking out the front and the side. I was particularly happy because I could lean my right arm against the soft nylon side (you can even see the shape of my arm in the pic below) and once we got moving I could stick it out the open window and give my shoulder a good stretch. I didn’t have any concerns about a lion coming along and biting it off as they don’t seem to bother moving vehicles. Anyway, my shoulder has been relatively cooperative, with the cortisone shot I received before leaving Toronto giving me blessed relief,, but some days it cramps up and needs room to sort itself out.

January 29-entry #1

Morning and final hours in Addo Park

It’s been difficult to write in a timely fashion since Emma and I have slept in a different place each night. \240It made sense from a driving perspective, so that Emma. Luke get back to Cape Town and work on time by the 1st, but it’s put a bit of unavoidable \240pressure on us. I’m relieved that I’ve been able to keep up with our plan, but it has meant that I have had to sleep soon after we check in and unpack what we need. If our car is with us behind a locked gate, at least we don’t have to unpack our purchases or other things we don’t need overnight. At some places we have made our own dinner, or if close to civilization, we order in with UberEats. \240What a world! If you have a good gps and Uber apps, you can go anywhere! I wouldn’t want Emma to do this kind of trip alone though. It is clear to me more than before, that it is not what we are used to in terms of safety for women. It is very disturbing to me and it makes me not want to leave her again, but I know she gets it takes precautions seriously.

So back to Addo.

When I woke up from a very restful sleep, Emma was out on our patio enjoying the morning and hoping to see some animals passing by on the way to the nearby watering hole.

Jan 29- entry #2

Evening

Arrived at our lovely Airb’n’b around 5 pm. Another longish day on the road, because we started out later than we planned.

Views were beautiful and it was a hot day 45c, so very grateful for air conditioned car. The chalet was one of the only places we stayed with ac also, funnily enough! It took us almost an hour to drive along outside of the park to get back to main road. We were ready to be done with the car after the 4 hrs to Plettenberg. Cute town that we want to call me back to on my next trip, which will not be for a year I’m sure though.

The air b’n’b was possibly the nicest place we stayed, if luxury is the measuring stick. Huge king sized bed so no problem sharing, in a large studio cottage space, with a well equipped, large shower and toilet room, and ourown patio. I wasn’t happy that the car had to remain outside and not behind locked gates, but we brought everything in and I was somewhat reassured that it was a “ nice” neighbourhood and not really close the the town centre.

Here are some pics:

Jan 30-

Thurs morning Old Nick Village

It’s Emma’s birthday!

Last night we arrived at Magnolia House, our last lodgings, tired, hungry and with high expectations. An actual B’n’B in Stellenbosch, we had paid extra for the “English Breakfast” since it was for the night before \240Emma’s bday and the last breakfast of the road trip.

We were greeted at the car gate by a soft spoken gentleman by the name of Paul, who showed us where to park. It was a lovely old home, with lush greenery and a beautiful garden in bloom. Paul led us to a reception room that was furnished with British looking antiques which \240Emma and I love. The whole thing started to go belly up though, when, after taking quite a long time \240scanning some things on an old looking computer, Paul said we would be going to “ the other house” and he would drive in our car with us. Emma expressed surprise to learn our room was in a different house than where breakfast was to be served, and what’s more, not on the same property or even the same street!! Paul was apologetic but wondered if we had missed that info on the website. We doubted that but remained polite, albeit dubious!

The short car ride was pretty tense, which was nothing compared with the atmosphere when we saw, first the second house, and then our room. \240It was like 3 star compared to 4+. The house had more of a hostel feel than a comfortable, charming B’n’B. Our bedroom looked like it was a boys room ( politically incorrect but I can’t think of another concise way to describe it) decorated 25 years ago, with faded quilts, towels and rugs that were old and worn. Not at all what the rooms looked like on the website. This particular room had been photographed deceptively, and the house itself was not show on the site at all, nor was it mentioned that there were two separate houses.

Magnolia “ House” was one of the more expensive of our 6 overnight stays and when Emma chose this, it was with her bday and our last night of the road trip in mind. It was meant to be special.

We asked to see or speak the owner and were told she would get in touch with Emma.

Actually, to recount it now ( 2 days later) is almost as annoying as it was at the time. \240It didn’t work out very well. We had to stay there for the night. \240I’ll probably circle back and, for the sake of history, write it all down at some point, but not right now.

We ordered in some dinner, and with little rest, went back out to a light show Emma had read about at one of the many nearby wineries. As we often have found, there is information we seem to miss, so when we go there, it wasn’t at all what we expected. \240Pretty disappointing, especially for Emma. \240It was a gorgeous night to be outdoors though, and the sky was filled with stars. \240We saw Orion, but kind of upside down from what we see of it in Toronto! \240The winery was on a property that was a farm in the 1800’s. \240All the buildings that were still there, were in beautiful shape, and were open for the public to walk through and admire. We could touch the furniture and and admire it all with no barriers or notices telling us what we could and couldn’t do. \240We have noticed this in other places here and that is very different from North America!

One installation in the light show was a Braille “ picture” of the stars. Sighted people see pretty lights but visually impaired people read the braille and “ see” the stars. Cool way for differently sighted people to enjoy the same display!

Emma’s bday part two.

After checking out, we drove in to the town of Stellenbosch to find a nice place for breakfast. \240As we had been told, it’s a lovely, historic town.

Jan 31- entry #3

So, lunch at Anura Winery!

It was clearly where I was meant to be because the landscape was dotted with \240frog creations!

Before our trip along The Garden Route, I started a video demonstrating some water conservation measures I have learned for in the home. \240In Canada we have so much water, our use of it is shockingly wasteful. \240Many things I have seen here give me pause, even though I thought myself to not be wasteful, and I hope I will continue to be more conscious of my own water consumption when I return to Toronto.

Back to the video though, my first turned out to show a bit more of me than some might want to see, so I started a new one as a part two. Just something to help me remember....

FYI I \240ended up adding the videos at end of the trip....

Only three days left of my trip to Cape Town and Emma. I’m probably not going to write much the next little while; it will feel like stealing time from what I have left with her.

Perhaps some quick snippets and a few pics. \240I’ll write about Erev Shabbat at the West Coast location another time.

Helped Emma host her Hanukkat Habayit and bday party tonight. \240My first experience of a Cape Town “Brai” ( aka bbq!) Quite different from anything we do in N America. She had her closest colleagues for dinner, then a later shift of friends for dessert. In the overlap she made havdalah and put up her mezuzah. \240Probably about 40 people here at the midpoint. Very lovely evening and wonderful to meet some of her friends and colleagues I had not yet met, and to spend more time with a few who were the ones closest to Emma. It’s incredible that Emma has been in this community for unjust under 4 months, and you already can see and feel how much affection there is for her!

I’m exhausted but feel good about her life here, which will make it easier to leave in 3 days. Easier, but not easy.

More reflections to come later but posting the party pics. A good time was had by all. \240Don’t miss the video just past putting up the mezuzah pics!

It’s so difficult writing entries days later. \240For the record, Emma and I had dinner at the home of her colleague Rabbi Greg, Andi and their three kids. They live in a modest n apartment in an upscale city neighbourhood, up high with another killer view overlooking the water. Of course I can’t remember the name of the area so I’ll have to add that info from Emma later.

It was a warm and fun meal and I was glad to have spent the time with them, although as it was the night before I was leaving, my head and heart weren’t totally in it. \240But glad we went all the same. Why I took no pics of them,I don’t know, but here are a couple of the view from their balcony. The wind was wicked that night so didn’t spend much time out there.

Last day

Usually I am mostly packed at least a day before I travel. This time, there was so much going on, and probably I was avoiding it, I didn’t get much done ahead of time.

The last day, Emma planned to take me to her favourite beach and then to lunch overlooking same beach. She usually takes Manny since it is a dog friendly beach, but the restaurant-actually a golf club- isnt’ so Manny had to sit this one out at home. \240Shame!

The beach is away from the centre of the city and gives you a good view of the citY from a bit of a distance.

The final days of my visit.

A day or two ago, Emma and I were painfully aware that Mummy’s Big South African Adventure was coming to an end and it felt like at break-neck speed! We both need and want to get back to our regular routines and our real lives, but it is going to be tough to say goodbye, I believe for both of us.

I’ll need to reflect on the reasons why this visit went so well, in terms of how and why my body has come through with flying colours, and why it went so well with Emma and I in each other’s faces, and me in her space, for just under 19 days including our 6 day road trip, spending night and day in the car, in one bedroom accomodations! \240I know reaching my conclusions will not require rocket science, but we did exceed even our own predictions of the best possible outcomes!

For now, I’ll just do a quick review of the things we did over the course of the last 3 days of the visit.

Emma had been looking forward to sharing some of the special places in her new life. \240One was a beautiful garden centre not far from her house, sitting at the base of Table Mountain. \240When Emma moved in to her house she received, and continues to receive, many house plants. \240She has never had much time or interest in plants, and has historically killed pretty much every living green thing she has owned. \240In Cape Town though, everyone cares about plants and they ( I meant the plants, but I suppose it applies to people too!) do well indoors and out with all the sun filled days and relatively easy temperatures. \240In Emma’s effort to keep things aIive, with the help of her “ domestic worker” Elijah, who does house cleaning, gardening and some heavy lifting tasks, she checked out this garden centre which was recommended to her, when she needed soil and pots to transplant her little her plants to. \240Emma was having much luck with the 3 orchids she had been given, and that gave her confidence. Nothing like success to inspire us to learn more!

She has been telling me about this wonderful place, and had planned to take me there to browse and have coffee in the cafe they also have there. \240Here are some shots, including Table Mountain in the background.

My body feels like it was slammed in to b a train. \240Taking a rest today, other than a short walk to the main drag of Obz. \240For me, the round trip is actually more than I want to be walking today ( ridiculous since it is like 10 mi ), but Emma has a lot of tight time frames to get things on her own to-do list done early enough to prepare for Erev Shabbat.

a rest today, other than a short walk to the main drag of Obz. \240For me, the round trip is actually still more than I want to be walking today ( ridiculous since it is only 10 min., but there is a slow incline on the way back). Emma has a lot of tight time frames to get things on her own to-do list done early enough to prepare for Erev Shabbat, so I am trying to stay out of her way

Shabbat morning

Back at Greenpoint where we were for Kol Nidre, which is Temple Israel’s downtown location. There was a nice little group of about 15 adults as well as the Cheder kids when they joined us for the Torah service.