Ok - somehow I made it to the car that is taking us to the airport to catch our flight to Zurich to start our biking vacation. \240As always, the mad dash to get out of the house was crazy. \240Crazy work, house things, close the pool, internet fails, and more - just never ends. \240Thankfully, my wonderful wife was prepared. As we started down the highway to New York, she pulled out a bottle of Champagne. What a relief - we are really going on this vacation. \240 Yes - but let me regress.

Patti and I are sitting at JFK ready to board Delta flight #407 with nonstop service to Zurich where we will begin our annual biking adventure. \240We arrive tomorrow morning at 10:00 AM and, if all goes well, will meet up with a car service for the 2 hour drive to join our biking companions in Kaysersberg in the Alsace region of France. This year we are biking through Alsace and Champagne with our friends Mike and Joan and a host of others.

Our tour is once again guided by our friend Jerome from Butterfield & Robinson, one of the leading bike tour groups in Europe. \240Their slogan is “Slow Down and See the World” and I hope that some way, we can do that.

We always thought that at age 63 (I know we don’t look it :)) that things would get less hectic but our life seems busier than ever. \240This is probably a good thing because the alternative, a very boring world, is not so attractive. \240Having said that a little “slowdown” would be a great thing.

We are excited about the area we are visiting. \240Alsace and Champagne are often said to offer “two visions of France” and “two tastes of France”. Over the years, Alsace has been similar to the most coveted prize at the Christmas Yankee Swap - whoever is in control last, took Alsace. \240It’s been part of the Roman Empire, the Austrian Empire, Germany, France, Germany and then finally France. \240Despite all of this, Alsace is undisputably a land in its own right. It has a unique language and culture that blends thousands of years of different cultures.

We will be biking parts of the “Wine Trail” in Alsace. We will join our group in Kaysersberg and travel south - home to some of the finest white wines in the world.

One creepy note. \240We will be staying at the Le Chambard Hotel in Kaysersberg. \240It’s a small hotel and our group has every one of the 12 rooms. \240While previously just a sleepy 5 star hotel in Alsace with a 4 star Michelin chef, the hotel is now famous as being the location of the suicide of the famous chef and TV personality, Anthony Bourdain.

New York Times, June 9, 2018 - KAYSERSBERG, France — The suicide of Anthony Bourdain, the celebrity chef and television host, left the residents of Kaysersberg, a small village in the Alsace region of France, known for its wine, local food and architecture, puzzled about why he chose this place to end his life.

Mr. Bourdain’s sudden death at Le Chambard, a five-star hotel in the village, also sent shock waves through the world’s restaurant industry.

So, here is the big question - who gets to sleep in the room where Bourdain met his untimely demise? Since we have the entire hotel, someone will be sleeping in the very room where the celebrity decided it wasn’t worth going on. \240Despite rigorous research, we have not been able to ascertain the exact room. \240So, how will we know - will the ghost of AB come and haunt the unlucky couple staying in his room? We will find out.

After a few days in Alsace, we head to Champagne. Champagne is a world of bubbly glitz and monumental history (this is where the Germans surrendered to Eisenhower). We will visit some of the world’s greatest Champagne houses and ride through what has been described as some of the most beautiful countryside in all of Europe.

We will be riding from Epernay to Reims, the north and south demarcation of the Champagne wine region.

Map of Champagne

Our trip ends with a private dinner at Le Madison Le Ruinart, the oldest Champagne House in France. We will be dining in their oldest champagne cave which dates from the 1700’s. \240

After the trip, we head back to Paris on Sunday. While biking through the hills and mountains of France may seem daunting and even dangerous, the real danger is Paris. That’s because after a week of riding through small villages, Patti and her friend Joan get two hours of shopping in Paris - hard to believe but you cannot even imagine the damage that can be wrought in that short period of time. \240Our hotel in Paris is centrally located in the ritziest shopping area - Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Christian Dior, Hermès and Chanel all just minutes away.

Well, stay tuned, I will be blogging along the way. \240There is always something interesting to share.

Bon Jour!

Champagne Before Takeoff

We hooked up with one of our biking pals, Darrin, and found our driver. \240Mike said he was going to find some wine for our 2 hour wine but the driver said he did not allow alcohol in the car. \240What?? Patti and Joan almost mutinied but calmer heads prevailed and we set off for our hotel, La Chambard in Kaysersberg.

The hotel is in a beautiful building right in the heart of town. \240But, it is a little funky to say the least. \240It’s purple and yellow color palate is something and the decorations are interesting. \240But, the staff is nice, the rooms are large and other than the ghost of Anthony Bourdain hanging around, its a great place. By the way, try as we might, no one will tell us the room where AB committed suicide. However, every room in the place seems to have a name except ours - could it have been the Anthony room and they took the sign down? Could we be in “the room”?

The Hotel La Chambard

Jeff in the Bar at the Hotel La Chambard

Funky Artwork at the Hotel

Not Usually Seen in Hallway

After a dropping our bags we headed out to get lunch. \240The town of Kaysersberg is a beautiful little French country town. \240As I walked along the brightly colored houses with the lace trim and shutters, the opening song from Beauty and the Beast kept playing in my head. I imagined colorfully dressed people smiling as they hung out their windows saying “Bonjour, Bonjour” and Belle skipping down the cobblestone streets. \240The dream came to an end when a sanitation truck almost ran me down.

We stopped at a cute outdoor cafe for lunch. \240After some initial language barriers, we were able to enjoy a great lunch in perfect weather. We feasted on Flammekueche, a traditional dish that is not like a pizza without tomatoes, but covered with cheese, cream, mushrooms and local delicacies. \240Patti and I had ours with Muenster cheese and our friend Darrin had it with salmon and capers. Joan went in another direction and got a chocolate torte.

Patti and Joan at Cafe

After lunch and a walk around the city, we freshened up and met the group for drinks at the hotel bar. \240It was nice reconnecting with our friends and everyone seemed in good spirits. \240The bar has an interesting motif. \240Apparently the chef of the restaurant is a big hunter and the bar is adorned with his trophies including 100’s of skulls of mountain goats he has killed. \240Chef Nasti is cooking for us tomorrow night and I wonder if mountain goat will be on the menu?

Hotel Bar

After drinks, we headed for dinner at Du Chateau, a quaint local restaurant in Kaysersberg.

We chose from a limited menu that included escargot (snails) in puff pastry or tuna tartare for an appetizer; cod with corizo or veal medallions for a main course and rasperries in a puff pastry for dessert. \240Several good wines topped off a most enjoyable first night.

Now its time for bed and biking in the morning. \24033 miles is our goal and with cool weather and fresh legs, I think we will make it.

The Grapes

Patti Getting Ready to Roll

We stopped in a small town and had some refreshments - there was not the same jovial spirit at the stop as usual. Why? - because the “big climb” was coming. The next part of the trip was 14 miles with almost all of it uphill. \240Even with an E-Bike, this would be a challenge for everyone. \240Patti and I loaded up on water and bananas and were ready to go. \240While it was steep climb, the scenery was spectacular. We reached an elevation of almost 1,200 feet. While there were some steep climbs, there were some incredible downhill sections as well.

I stuck with Patti and there was a point where she thought she had to stop. \240I told her to visualize Madelyn, Logana and Addison at the finish waiting for MiMi to get there. \240That seemed to work because she powered through the rest of the ride.

Patti at the Morning Break

The Girls

The Guys

We finally made it to our lunch venue, a beautiful restaurant called La Nouvelle Auberge. \240We sat outside in the beautiful sunshine and feasted on a great lunch. \240Everyone was feeling good about conquering the hill and spirits were high. \240It’s a fun group of people and there were stories galore about the adventure.

Outside Table at Lunch Restaurant

A Little Sunshine With Linda and Cindy

Fresh Fish for Lunch

Cheescake for Dessert

After lunch, we hopped on our bikes and rode back to the hotel which was about 12 more miles. \240Most of the trip was on a scenic bike path and great fun. \240Unfortunately, the last several miles included a busy highway and it was scary. \240Patti did a great job to not panic as she was being passed by big trucks.

We returned to the hotel and freshened up. \240Later we walked into Kaysersberg, a beautiful little city.

Our Hotel in Kayserberg

We did some shopping and then visited a Brassier (a French pub) and had some local wine. \240We needed to hustle home because we were having a 6 course meal prepared by Chef Nasti, the acclaimed chef at our hotel.

The Center of Kayserberg

A Shop Window

The dinner was really something. \240I have included a picture of the menu which included many things the we have never eaten before. \240The pairings were very eclectic but overall it was an enjoyable meal accompanied by great wines. The portions were small but that was OK because Patti didn’t eat most of the plates so I got extra. \240

The Menu for Chef Nasti’s Dinner

Our Private Table

If you notice, one of the courses was medallions of Alsatian Deer. \240Well, if you were paying attention you will know that yesterday I commented on all of the stuffed wild animals hanging in the bar area at the hotel. \240Well, one of the newest ones was an Alsatian deer - could it have been the one on the menu? \240Of course, we had a couple of vegetarians in our mix (after all some of the crowd is from California) and they kept asking if the rest of us were really going to eat Bambi. \240Well, we did and it was delicious. No guilt on my part.

Well bedtime now. \240Big day tomorrow. \24012 miles in the morning and then off to Champagne.

View From Vosges Mountains

At the end of our ride, we arrived at the a quaint little restaurant nestled in the mountains. They had set up a beautiful table for us overlooking a scenic valley.

Lunch Restaurant

Our Table

Lunch started off well. A light salad of cabbage,carrots and cucumbers. \240This along with some sparkling water and wine seemed a perfect pairing after a long bike ride up the mountain. \240However, it went downhill quickly. The main course was served. \240It was a big plate of potatoes with smelly Munster (as they spell it) cheese, bacon and onions. \240We learned that it is this region’s equivalent of Mac and cheese. \240The only problem was that there was something for everyone to dislike. \240Some people held their noses over the pungent cheese. \240Others didn’t like onions. \240Several other had dietary conditions that don’t allow them to process that much starch, others had religious objections to bacon and some just didn’t like the idea of a plate of potatoes for lunch. \240Of course, I was perfectly happy but I certainly was in the minority. \240To make it worse, as people inquired over whether they could get something else, the waiter seemed to take personal offense that we were rejecting his house specialty. \240The more requests the angrier he got muttering in French or Alsatian or some language. \240The words were muffled but the displeasure was not.

Fortunately, the restaurant was generous with the wine (including letting the girls steal some as discussed earlier) and the group went back to its jovial banter. \240This is a very placid group, so after awhile, everyone calmed down in anticipation of dessert. \240We all had been told that this area is known for its wonderful tarts and baked goods. \240Speculation was that since raspberries were in season, a raspberry tort or cake was coming. \240Someone had spied some decadent looking confections in the main restaurant ao anticpation was high.

Finally, the big moment came. So when the servers came out holding big platters over their heads (led by the angry waiter who I noticed had a very sly smile on his face), the crowd silenced in anticipation of a big treat. Imagine our surprise when as the platters were lowered we see - not a delicious fruit tort or a wonder baked delight but CHEESE, CHEEESE, and more CHEESE - several varieties of smelly Munster cheese. The angry waiter smiled a devious grin - his revenge was complete.

Potatoes For Lunch

Patti and Darrin at Lunch

Jeff and Joan Sipping Wine at Lunch

On the Bus

Well time for a nap so I am well rested for Champagne. \240One good thing, they don’t serve smelly Munster cheese in Champagne.

11:26 PM - Well, we arrived in Champagne and checked into our hotel, Hotel Les Avises. \240Set in a neoclassical building, it has 12 rooms and we occupy all but one. The description in the hotel’s brochure is accurate:

Imbued with the guest-house spirit and ambiance, the hotel offers ten rooms combining classic design and contemporary boldness, as well as a restaurant run by our chef Stéphane Rossillon and his wife Nathalie. The guiding principle is to introduce you to "the secrets" of Champagne and the Champagne region..

We got to sample Chef Rossillon food tonight and it was delicious. Six courses of heaven paired with delicious wines from all over France and, unlike last night, we finished our meal in 2 hours - 50% less time than last night’s dinner marathon. \240However, after all this fine dining, I think everyone in the group is longing for a simple hamburger and fries.

Our Hotel

Our Room

Patti and I at the Champagne tasting

Me and George

Chef Rossillon at work

Our Guides Diago (left) and Jerome (right)

Well I need to get some sleep. \240A long ride tomorrow through the Champagne countryside with stops at several famous Champagne houses.

Getting Ready to Go

Today was another perfect day for biking. \240Our start time was 10:00 AM. \240As Patti and I headed out at 9:30, she said she felt a little sick. \240By the time we were ready to go, she felt very sick. \240After a consultation, it was decided that she should stay at the hotel and try to join us for lunch and the afternoon ride. Fortunately the hotel had some medicine - no idea what it was - but it worked and Patti was able to join us for lunch and the rest of the ride. \240

Unfortunately, Patti missed an unbelievably beautiful ride in the morning. \240We went about 31 kilometers (20 miles) most of which was through beautiful vineyards. \240I zoomed out ahead of the group so I could make many stops along the way to get some good pictures for Patti. \240Some are included below. \240As you will see, the shear expansive of the vineyards is staggering.

Along the Route

A Beautiful Church

Street Sign

Mike and Joan

Texted This Pic to Patti with this message “Miss you - Wish you were here”

The ride was spectacular with 90% of it on vineyard roads. \240We maybe passed 5 cars the whole morning. \240Since Patti wasn’t around, I decided to see what I could do and after our morning stop, another rider and I headed to lunch. \240We covered over 28 kilometers of hilly terrain in just over an hour. \240That averages to 17 Miles Per Hour - a very fast pace. \240

We passed through several towns and they seemed dead. \240We later learned that why. \240It seems as if in most years, holiday is in August and September is the harvest. \240This year, harvest came early so that pattern is reversed. \240Harvest was in late August and early September and now everyone is on holiday.

Lunch Stop

Lunch with the Gang (including Patti)

Lunch was very good with a delicious salmon appetizer and a wonderful white fish baked to perfection on a bed of delicious rice. \240This was followed by a wonderful dessert and coffee. \240No wonder no one wanted to hop back on our bikes for the 10 mile ride home.

Patti and I After Lunch

Beautiful Scenery on the Way Home

A quick word on equipment. \240We all are riding E Bikes. \240These are amazing machines which have a battery assisted motor built into the crankcase (where the pedals attach) and provide just enough “boost” to get you up those steep hills. \240One problem, the battery only lasts 20 minutes under heavy use and so, when you are riding several hours, you need to conserve. \240One of our riders, George (the organizer of our trip) used the Turbo mode (highest level) a little too long one day and ran out of juice. \240The E Bike is very heavy without the motor and George had to wait for a lift to get back to the hotel. \240It takes awhile to master the art of the bike because you have to meld 10 gears and 4 settings on the motor to get the right combination. \240Several of us like to see how far we can go without engaging the motor (a macho thing). \240Another interesting fact, with the motor engaged, the bike is limited to 25 Kilometers per hour (about 15 miles per hour). Since many of us like to go faster, you have to learn when to turn the electric motor off and when to turn it back on. \240It is a real skill to master it.

All of us have sturdy shoes, biking gloves (which cushion the vibration), helmets, biking glasses, padded biking pants and special jerseys. One guy in particular stands out and that is Mike Zaccaro who has a helmet that makes him look like the Great Gazoo, a character from the television show, The Jetsons. \240Despite repeated teasing, Mike returned this year with the helmut and, frankly, its kind of growing on us.

The Great Gazoo

The Original Great Gazoo

After returning from our ride, Joan and I took a wal through the little town of Avises where we are staying. \240Everything in the town is tied into Champagne production. \240

House in Avises

Vineyards Right at the Edge of Town

A Typical Champagne House

As we walked along the streets, we were again surprised that everything was so dead. \240We walked by several Champagn Houses but not were open. \240One interesting thing, people don’t seem to lock their doors very often in this part of France so on one occasion, we walked into what we thought was a Champagne tasting room only to find out that we were in someone’s living room. \240Oops.

We finally found a Champagne House that was open, J. Lanaud, a 99 year old house. \240We had a tasting and bought some very good Champagne. \240Their best bottle was 37 euro and delicious - much better value than the US.

J. Lanaud

Taking a Taste

We finished the night with a Champagne tasting at the hotel and a great dinner in Epernay, the capital of the Champagne region.

I would write more but I am exhausted. \240I will share some more info on the group tomorrow. \240Also, I am too tired to proofread so please excuse the typos. \240Hope all is well with everyone reading this blog. \240Good night.

Patti, me and Joan on the move

ATypical Mountain Road

A Windmill in the Vineyards near Reims

Posing with Mike and Margery

Lunch at a Restaurant in Riley La Montagne

It was sad getting off our bikes at lunch because we knew that our biking experience was done for this year. While many of the members of the group do not see each other but for once or twice a year, the biking creates a very strong bond. \240A bike trip like this is what I imagine an “Outward Bound” experience is like. Everyone needs to look out for each other. \240Things happen: flat tires, GPS failures, forgotten gear, detours, dead batteries (the worst), traffic, etc. So, people try to stay together and help each other. \240Often this means that you have to sacrifice something - maybe waiting with someone until the chase van arrives, or walking bikes with someone who has a dead battery, or retracing steps to find someone who has gone off course. All these things create a strong “team” bond and that is why the end of the biking part of the trip is always sad.

However, we did not dwell on that for long because we had a great lunch with many bottles of fine champagne (which was ok because we were not hopping back on the bikes). \240We also talked in anticipation about the special event that had been planned for us that evening at the House of Ruinart, the oldest and one of the greatest champagne houses in France. \240More about that later.

We were transported to Reims which is the home of many of the greatest names in champagne. \240We checked into the Hotel L’Assiette Champenois in Reims. \240It was a beautiful 5 star hotel. \240We all made quite a site arriving in our biking outfits as staff dressed in formal wear with gloves on met us.

The Hotel L’Assiette Champenoise

Our Bed in the Hotel - Biggest Duvet Ever

Most people opted to stay at the hotel and either rest, get massages or drink more champagne. \240I ventured into the historic area of Reims (about a 30 minute walk) to see the famous Cathedral du Notre Dames, the Reims Cathedral. \240The cathedral is a beautiful Gothic style structure. The fame of the Cathedral resulted from King Henry I of France, the first King of France, who was crowned there in 1027 and permanently established Reims Cathedral as the location of the coronation of the French monarchy. All future Kings of France would be crowned there.

Reims Cathedral

Of particular importance is the coronation of Charles VII in 1429 as it marked the reversal of the course of the Hundred Years' War, thanks in large part to the tenacity of Joan of Arc. Today, she is memorialized at Reims Cathedral with two statues: an equestrian statue outside the church and another within the church.

Joan of Arc

That evening we gathered in the hotel lobby in great anticipation for our final dinner of the trip. \240We were off to the House of Ruinart, the oldest champagne house in France. \240Dom Ruinart rivals Dom Perrignon as the finest champagne in the world and in many taste tests Ruinart wins. \240

Ruinart

With Friends Outside Ruinart

However, tasting the champagne was only part of the experience. \240We were met by Marc, our host, who is the Head of Experiences at Ruinart. \240He explained that the winery strives to give its special guests (like us) a total experience. \240He delivered on that promise.

We started with a sip of champagne and a tour of the main house. \240He explained that Ruinart family has always had a connection with fine artists and so the house contained many interesting pieces d’Art.

Blown Glass Chandelier

Glass Sculture of Falling Chandelier and Wine

After a brief talk on the history of Ruinart (which was founded in 1729), we went down into the cellars.

The Stairs to the Cellars

As we wandered around the massive callers, we learned of the “secret weapon” of Ruinart. It is the chalk caves. \240Many years ago, this area of France was the site of chalk mining. \240Chalk mining is a process where chalk is extracted by digging a hole from the surface into huge chalk reserves, and extracting chalk out. \240As the operation goes deeper and deeper, it creates huge caverns. The three caverns or “caves” on the Ruinart property are each almost the size of a football field and about 6 stories high. \240The Ruinart cellars connect to these chalk caverns and this is where the champagne is aged. \240Because of the depth of the chalk caves and their proclivity to absorb water, the caves are a constant 41 degrees and 60% humidity, the perfect climate for aging champagne. \240In addition, the air in the chalk is slightly alkaline and is absorbed into the wine giving it a smooth flavor.

Chalk Cave

Chalk Cave

The exquisite house and the fascinating tour of the cellars and caves was just a preamble to the main event - dinner.

Our Dining Table

Before we sat down, our host, Marc, said he had a surprise for us. \240And some surprise it was. \240Our dinner table played the part of a movie screen as a whimsical video played. \240Marc was true to his word - it was quite “la experience”.

A Video Treat

A picture of the menu is set out below. \240The Chef De Caves, Frédéric Panaiotis is renowned all through France and he did not disappoint. The menu is set out below and every course was delicious. \240It may be the finest meal I have ever experienced. \240Each course was paired with a Champagne that was exquisite.

The Menu

Enjoying Dinner

A perfect day, a great trip. \240Now, on to Paris and Joan and Patti’s favorite sport - no not more biking but shopping of course.

Our Hotel in Central Paris

The Lobby

Our Living Room

Our Bedroom

The Best Part - Enjoying Our Balcony

The View From Our Balcony

So now we are in Paris - what to do? Within walking distance are all of Paris’ wonders, The Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, the Eiffel Tower - are these our destinations? \240No silly boy - “nous doit faire du shopping maintenant” - (translation: “we must go shopping now”) was the firm edict from Joan and Patti. \240It took some effort but Mike and I persuaded the girls to at least have lunch first. But “ou a aller” - Where to go? In Paris, your choices are “beaucoup” - many. How about the the 3 star Michelin restaurant in the hotel with a brunch complete with foi gras and a seafood tower to die for, or maybe one of the little cafes where you can sit outside and watch the world go by, or that cute little restaurant across the street that serves that amazing blue foot chicken. “Aucun mon cheri” - no my darling. \240It was off to FTG, Frenchies to Go - the best place to get authentic American food in Paris.

Frenchies to Go

The place is a hole in the wall and we were lucky to snag one of the 8 tables. \240You order at a counter and the menu is simple: hot dog, fried chicken, fish and chips, a Rueben, a lobster roll and pulled pork sandwich. \240These are served with your choice of French fries (of course) pickles or cole slaw. \240Of course, they have a nice selection of wines (after all this is France). \240Patti went for the hot dog, Mike the fried chicken, Joan the fish and chips and me the lobster roll. \240We had fries and pickles and a very nice Poulter-Fume to wash it down. After a week of rich French food, the meal was heavenly.

Patti’s Hot Dog and Fries

After lunch we were off to shopping or so we thought. \240Mike, our trusty navigator, set a course for Chanel - our first stop. Somehow, we ended up in a shopping mall near the Louvre with no Chanel in sight (there was a store named Channel however). \240Patti and Joan thought it was a plot by Mike to subvert their shopping plans. \240Without missing a beat, they threw themselves at a taxi and we were off to the real Chanel at 51 Avenue Montaigne. The Avenue Montaigne, at the very heart of Paris’ Golden Triangle. Luxury and prestige crisscross and make the street the highlight of first-class shopping in Paris with Haute Couture shops like Dior, Chanel, Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Céline, Hermès, and Prada. It is a shopper’s dream come true and a husband’s worst nightmare. As you can see from the picture below, you shop in style at Chanel - only the best champagne is served as you look at ridiculously overpriced footwear.

Champagne and Shoes - Who Knew

Patti and Joan attacked the store. \240As you walk in, you are assigned a personal buyer who is more than happy to fetch you any product your heart desires. Shoes, jewelry, scarfs and handbags all made their way to our table. \240The damage wasn’t so bad. Both Patti and Joan walked out with some beautiful things and the price was such that neither Mike nor I will need to take out the second mortgages we had been discussing as we sipped our champagne. C’est la vie!

The Box that Makes a Woman’s Heart Twitter

Fortunately the Chanel experienced had quenched the shopping urges and so we headed back to the hotel for a quick rest. \240We regrouped to discuss our plan for the evening. \240We decided to avoid a fancy meal and instead head over to huitrerie Regis - a “huitrerie” is an oyster house and this is one of the best in Paris and this one is one of the best in oyster crazy Paris. \240The oysters come from Brittany and are driven in every day. It is small place (no more than room for 20 or so) and once again, we were lucky to get a table outside. \240We settled in and prepared for a feast.

We were joined by Ryan, a friend of Mike and Joan’s son who was stuck in Paris. \240It seems Ryan had been on holiday and lost his passport and couldn’t get out of town until he got a temporary passport from the American Embassy on Monday. \240Ryan is a great guy and so it was nice to have him tag along. \240He had come to Paris with some friends including a girl who’s grandmother lived right in Paris and was willing to have Ryan and his friends stay. \240What Ryan didn’t know at the time was that the grandmother was related to the Shah of Iran who many may remember was exiled from Iran during the Iranian revolution when the Ayatollah took control 1979. \240There were always rumors that the Shah managed to get his millions out of the country before he left and judging by Ryan’s description of the apartment in which he was staying, I believe this relative got some of those millions.

The Royal Oyster House

Tasted as good as it looks

Ryan, Mike and Joan preparing to feast

After feasting on oysters, we had no set plans. \240We were in the 6th Arrondissement on the famous left bank, \240a lively area so we walked around some. \240It was early evening and the streets were alive. People were sitting at the outdoor cafes enjoying dinner or coffee. \240Some were engaged in lively conversation - others just people watching. People were dressed in the chic French look - women in designer jeans and fashionable shoes (yes Patti fit right in with her new Chanel shoes), men had on smart sweaters and jackets and the ever present scarf - the staple of the French wardrobe. \240

We decided to visit a cafe and have some coffee and dessert. We stopped at the Les Deux Magots, a beautiful classic French cafe. \240When we entered the packed room, we thought we could not possibly be seated but the manager approached and said “but of course there is a space for you.” He asked one couple to move right, another to move left leaving a small table in the void. He snapped his fingers and “voila” - a space that was just enough for us to squeeze into was created. That would never happen in America, and if it did, the customers whose tables were moved would be screaming. \240In Paris, it only elicited a passing glance and a shrug (and even that may have been just a glance to admire Patti’s shoes).

The Cafe Les Deux Margots

The Cafe is Bustling

We had an assortment of desserts, each better than the last. \240All that hype about French pastry is well deserved. \240My slogan: “Everything tastes better with French pastry cream in it.”

Raspberry and Custrad on Shortbread

Cheesecake with Fresh Cherry Sauce

We grabbed cabs back to the hotel but the night was not “fini” as they stay.

Passing the Arc di’Triumph

Passing the Louvre

Now what does every red blooded American do on a Sunday night in Paris. - find a sports bar and watch football and that is exactly what we did. \240We found an English Pub, The Freedom, not far from the hotel that had big screen TV’s playing ESPN’s Red Zone.

We had a few beers, some wings and nachos (pretty good) and watched. The only bummer was watching the Eagles blow the game.

At the Sports Bar

Patti and I capped off the evening with a glass of Rose wine on our balcony and headed for bed. It was quite the day in Paris.

Rose and two glasses left on the balcony the next morning

It is now October 1 and we are on the plane home. \240This morning we had a nice continental breakfast in our room and headed for the airport.

Continental Breakfast

The excitement didn’t quite end. \240We cleared security, did a little last minute shopping and headed to our gate which is accessed by a train. \240Just as we approached the train, all hell broke loose with security persons screaming to retreat. \240It was mass confusion. We came to find out that there was a bomb scare that involved an abandoned piece of luggage just outside the train we were about to board. \240We waited for forty five minutes until the all-clear was given. \240As you might imagine, it was some rush to the train. We finally made it to the Air France lounge where Mike and Joan were waiting with a glass of champagne to calm our nerves. All went well from there and we boarded the plane and took off.

View Leaving France

Well, I hope you enjoyed reading my little novel as much as I have enjoyed writing it. \240Talk to you on the next trip.