Arrived! Having survived the screaming baby, red eye flight, and successfully navigated Heathrow airport we are at last in London. There is a chill in the air and throngs of people on the streets. The city is jammed with iconic images and places. We wandered about, dabbled in pub life, and tried to get our heads around London of today.

A day full of classic old London sites, but they stil feel fresh and fun. The Tower of London is so rich in history and the Beefeaters make the dark and sorted past so much fun to recall- beheadings and all. St. Paul’s may not have all the grandeur of St. Peter’s but it still holds its own and is always wonderful to visit. A short walk lands us in a pub so dark we have to pause to let our eyes adjust to the light. Ye Olde Cheshire Cat has been serving pints in its darkened corners since 1667.

A wonderful day to explore some great architecture starting with the Victoria and Albert Museum and ending 8 miles of walking later at the Natural History Museum next door. In between wanderings through Harrods, Chinatown, and Covent Garden with their contrasting images. Beautiful day, beautiful city.

Stressful day starting with delayed trains, and culminating with the challenges of driving on the left. Our GPS was a disaster, but above the shouting we persevered. Salisbury cathedral is a medieval wonder built on shallow foundations and suffering years of misguided renovations; but still wonderful to see. Thanks to GPS we glimpsed Stonehenge from beyond a barbed wire fence, but safely arriving in Bath was our reward for surviving our first day of the road. A lovely evening chatting with a local in a pub capped our days adventures.

It is easy to see why people fall in love with Bath. The city is full of charm, and rich in architectural treasures. The Roman Baths date to around 60AD. The main bath and hot spring still exist today relatively unchanged although no longer in use. The street patterns in areas still reflect the old Roman walls that once enclosed the city. Avenues are lined with beautiful yellow limestone facades dating to the 1700’s that give the city a warm glow. Add the \240good food and drink and it’s a win.

Bath, England to St. David’s, Wales today and such a contrast. We paused for lunch in Mumbles on Wales’ South coast. A lovely little place that is clearly a summer favorite. St. David’s is UK’s smallest town, and also a favorite retreat. The medieval cathedral is spectacular and unique. It is set below the town alongside a now crumbling ruined palace. The nave slopes considerably along its length but having done so for centuries is of little concern. The local pub (there appears to be just one) is a hangout and local source of information. Dogs are allowed everywhere with owners and sit politely in restaurants and bars.

Another beautiful day and perfect for exploring the west Wales coast from the PembrokeshireCoast Path. We took in only a few small stretches of the 186 mile trail. The walk along the cliff’s edge and down \240across beaches is spectacular.

The drive through Wales was relatively uneventful but picturesque as we moved through quaint towns and small villages. My driving efforts were cut short in fear that I would blow a tire hitting the curbs all the time. Stoping for lunch in Aberaeron we learned that Ohio was the favored place for Welsh immigrants in the 1800’s. The earliest settlements were around Gallup County, Ohio where the Welsh bought farms. They still boast of the famous Welsh offspring Bob Evans!

Liverpool is a friendly, bustling city where it seems the pubs are always full. The buildings that survived bombings in both wars are rugged testaments to Liverpool’s determination. The city is however obsessed with its Beatles heritage and museums, monuments, tributes and souvenir shops abound. The Cavern Club was home to their earliest performances and places up and down the adjacent alley claim a piece of the fame. Paul’s grandfather likely lived here awhile, somewhere between 1923 and 1927 when he embarked on a White Star Line ship, The Cedric, for New York.

Arrived in Dublin to be greeted by Myles Duffy, Paul’s cousin. He took us on a meandering drive and ultimately to Dalkey, an area south of Dublin. In spite of blustery conditions and temperatures in the 50s, swimmers were taking a plunge in the Bay of Dublin. We capped the evening with a wonderful and raucous time of drinks and dinner with the Duffy clan.

A day in Dublin hosted by Myles with his two architect friends to fill us in on the history and architecture. Many interesting places and a history that includes Vikings, Normans, British, and more. Capoed the evening with dinner with a work colleague, Alan, and his wife only to learn that his wife and I once lived two doors apart and knew each other from grade school. Fun times over a couple of pints.

A gloomy day in Dublin and hard to capture in photos, but we were undeterred. We wandered about the oldest parts of Dublin in the area around Temple Bar and The Liberties. Occupied since the 9th century it’s still a busy core with tourist venues and old institutions intertwined along narrow streets and busy avenues. Trinity College was bustling with students just starting the school year as they have since the 1500s. While not the prettiest city, Dublin is rich in culture and heritage. Finished the day in a very local pub chatting with Dubliners and having a good laugh.

A party sunny day in Dublin at last. Visited the Long Hall library at Trinity College where they are in the process of restoring and preserving the 100,000+ volumes. Glimpsed the Book of Kells as well; a little peek into the Middle Ages. A tasty tour of Jameson followed by an evening at The Cobblestone with live Irish trad musicians and singers. Great way to complete our stay in Dublin.

Dreariest day yet became wettest day yet as we drove our manual drive rental car to Cork. Stopped at Rock of Cashel to check out some of Ireland’s favorite ruins-which are apparently of a some historic significance- in the blowing, chilly rain. Good times. Cork is probably nicer than a gray day makes it feel, but we were at least rewarded by a great meal in a lovely restaurant. Day saved.

Made our way circuitously out of Cork, meandering for miles along the River Lee. Green farm fields and small herds of sheep or cows accent the landscape. Arrived in Kenmare in County Kerry ahead of the rain. Besides being a very quaint town it is also home to the largest stone circle in southwest Ireland (there are over 100). The circle dates to somewhere between 200-2,000 BC. We made the short hike to the Torc Waterfall where the surrounding woods appeared to be draped in thick green moss. Arrived in the rain at Killarney looking for better weather tomorrow.

Couldn’t have asked for a better day to drive the Ring of Kerry. Very little traffic and mostly sunny skies made for a fun day exploring ancient sites and beautiful cliffs.the Skellig Ring with the Kerry Cliffs and views of Skellig islands was the best. Finished the clockwise loop at the Gap of Dunlop just before returning to Killarney.

Dingle peninsula was worth the drive. The sun emerged as we found steep grassy hills dotted with sheep. The hills met the ocean in craggy cliffs with ancient stone structures interspersed among them. The quaint town of Dingle nestles in the heart of the peninsula. So much to like.

Rainy day heading to Galway. Had to make our way around Limerick, across the Shannon, and through The Burren. Stopped for lunch in Ennis to find they were having a craft fair with metal forgers working live over fire. The Burren was a strange landscape of eroded limestone and ancient structures. The stone dolman has bodies in it that date to 4200 BC. The sky finally cleared and we arrived in Galway.

Galway is a charming city where water seems to flow everywhere creating islands, inlets, canals, and peninsulas. Once one of Europe’s busiest ports now a university town with great tourist appeal. Ancient stone buildings and walls line narrow streets filled with people. Can see why it is so well loved.

Connemara is just a short drive from Galway, but its not clear where it starts or ends. We stopped in Clifden before heading into Connemara National Park for a hike up Diamond Hill. Wonderful views out to the ocean and a nice climb, although we stopped maybe 100 feet short of the full 1,300 foot elevation gain as the winds were strong and the climb ahead more challenging than needed. The road back to Galway wound along lakes between tall, scrub covered hills with sheep wandering about the roads.

Sligo is only about a 1 1/2 hour drive from Galway and is the 2nd largest west Ireland city at around 20,000. Busy shopping streets wind up from the river. Charming and not so touristy. Sligo’s claim to fame is being the childhood stomping grounds of William B Yeats. Ireland loves its authors.

Donegal sits in the narrow part of Ulster that is not part of the UK. It is celebrating its 550th anniversary this year with a 1474 founding. Only around 2,700 people call this place home, but the town sees a regular flow of tourists for much of the year. The old castle sits to one side of the town center and ruins of the old friary on the other. The refurbished town triangle is a beautiful centerpiece to a lovely town.

A winding coast road led us to Slieve League. These steep cliffs are a sheer 1,972 feet above the sea at their highest point. The wind whips along the shore and the cool temperatures make the hat and scarf vendor a popular chap. Sheep graze the cliff sides unbothered by the heights, the weather, and the passing visitors.

We crossed into Northern Ireland yesterday and arrived shortly in Enniskillen. Enniskillen is largely built on an island between two lakes or loughs with one main street through town. The street changes name 5 or 6 times along its length but has been home to the primary businesses, churches, government offices, and once residences for hundreds of years. Old pubs dating to the 1700s and 1800s are many. The statue of General Cole looms eerily over the city at night, its pillar unseen in the dark. Cute town once home to Paul’s grandfather and family.

Belfast was mostly gray and blustery when we arrived, but we made our way to Titanic Belfast. It is an amazing museum that documents not only the process of designing and constructing the Titanic but the transformation of life in Belfast over the shipbuilding era. The port is still active with tall cranes dominating the waterfront.

Belfast in the rain is not the best, but we made our way through the city center- the quirky Cathedral, the fabulous City Hall, St George’s market, and the famed Crown Liquor Saloon- before boarding the city bus for a tour through Belfast’s more infamous neighborhoods. The divisions still run deep.

Arrived in Glasgow early and set out to see what this ancient city had to offer. The gloomy weather didn’t help but we made our way through streets lined with red sandstone buildings to the cathedral. Amazingly built atop the original 12th century Catholic church, the cathedral was instrumental in the founding of the city. A cemetery rises above the church and city marking gravestones of the city’s most famous residents. The old city center was bustling with shoppers and tourists, and a bagpiper for some local color.

The gloomy weather suggested an indoor day and we ventured to Glasgow’s west end. Home to the University of Glasgow and some fine museums, the area was busy with students and tourists. You expect to see Harry Potter around every corner but it surprisingly wasn’t filmed here. Exhibits on Glasgow’s favorite architect, Mackintosh, were not hard to find and all quite enjoyable. The Kelvingrove Museum is huge and exceptional. Finished the day with a nightcap at The Pot Still, a friendly local bar and left feeling there is much to like about Glasgow.

Our road trip to the highlands started with a stop on the bonnie, bonnie banks of Loch Lomond and led us into amazing vistas of huge hills with lakes and rivers everywhere between. Arrived at Fort William, a charming city on the west end of the Great Glen that connects the Atlantic to the Moray Firth and the North Sea at Inverness. Stayed the night at Fort William in a former jail cell in a former police station, odd but pleasant enough.

With sunny skies and frost on the windshield we made our way from Fort William to Isle of Skye. We soon learned that the rain would come in waves every couple of hours with periods of brilliant sunshine in between. Caught views of Ben Nevis, UK’s highest peak, as we wound out of town. High mountains were capped with snow. Arriving on Skye we stopped at the Fairy Pools - areas of stone carved out by the water over millennia forming pools and falls. We hiked about in sun and rain and loved it all. Capped the day with live local music and dancing.

The sky started to clear as we made our way up the Old Man Of Storr hike- a 3 mile round trip trek with about 1,150 feet of elevation gain. Fantastic views and great way to work off a huge Scottish breakfast. A loop back through Portree and we wound our way out to the Neist Point lighthouse. After the morning’s hike, the hundreds of steps down looked like a bad idea so we slogged through marshy terrain for a better view. Before we could retreat to the car it started to sleet. The weather changes here are incredible.

Traveled east across the north highlands to Invernes. We stopped first at a restored castle, Eilean Donan, an oddly named castle on a small island that served as a fort in the 1300s, a garrison for Spanish soldiers in the 1700s, and fell to ruins before restoration by its rightful owners around 1918. Further on, Urquhart Castle sits in ruin along Loch Ness having been occupied from the 13th through 16th centuries and abandoned in the 17th century. So much history to consider and keeping a lookout for Nessie too. Arrived at Inverness to find a lively city nestled along either side of the fast moving River Ness. Wonderful evening enjoying the chill atmosphere of the town.

The trip from Inverness to Edinburgh took us back through snow capped Highlands peaks and steep valleys. Stopped at Carrbridge and Perth before arriving to much GPS confusion in Edinburgh, and gladly parted with the car. Beautiful city but chilly and windy. A great dinner and drinks helped take the edge off the cold night.

Edinburgh in the sun is spectacular. We made our way to the Royal Mile and traipsed along through beautiful streets, mostly filled with tourists, but still lovely. Cannot imagine what Summer here must be like. Lunched in a building that has been around since the 1600’s. Finished the evening in a cosy old pub with a musician playing- like most of the pubs. What’s not to like.

Edinburgh showed its gloomy side today but there was still much to discover. The fabulous National Galleries and National Museum of Scotland were well worth the visit. Huge impressive artworks and wonderful exhibits on Scotland. Finished the day with a dessert of Scottish cheeses and sherry casked whiskey. Perfect.

Arrived in York, England by train, and followed the old city walls from the train station, across a bridge and into the old city center. The town center still has medieval streets of buildings that date to the 1300s and 1400s. The amazing York Minster cathedral has original medieval stained glass as well. Amazingly well preserved old city that still functions as the town’s center today.

The old town of York is largely surrounded by medieval walls-built atop Roman walls in some areas- that are considered the most intact city walls in Britain. Most of the 2 miles of walls can be walked along the top offering views of the city from all sides. Stepping back down into the city for more amazing medieval architecture at the Clifford Tower and Merchants Hall were both a treat. Standing amid or atop structures built over 600 years ago is still mind boggling.

Returned to London by train arriving at the spectacular Kings Cross/St Pancras Station and then on to Paddington. Our room is nearby in one of many converted townhomes along the tree lined streets north of Hyde Park. Beautiful day to stop in the British Museum and admire some of their appropriated art from former colonies around the world. Finished the evening with a fabulous dinner at Ottolenghi’s NOPI. Love London.

Saturday Part 2: The afternoon found us making our way to Fulham along the Thames just west of central London. We went to a Premier League football game at Craven Cottage, a stadium dating to the 1800s. Sadly, Fulham lost to Aston Villa, but it was still great fun though a little unnerving too. We were seated in the Putney End just the other side of the “DMZ” separating the away fans from the home fans. Lots of security on hand and they had their hands full at times. They only allow drinking behind the stands but the crowd apparently found it possible to consume a generous quantity of pints before the game and at the half. All good.

Saturday Part 1: Spent the morning in Hyde Park- the original one- seeing Londoners and tourists alike enjoying the 350 acre park. Horseback riders, dogs everywhere, beautiful fountains, a Royal Palace, museums, and statues galore. Didn’t realize London was home to so many parrots!

Last full day in London and a little drizzle didn’t slow us down. Took trains to Royal Albert Hall. A wonderful space with a cavernous main hall that seats over 5,200 people. The hall has hosted an amazing array of events including symphonies, major rock concerts, operas, tennis, boxing, ice skating shows, and more. Squeezed in a wonderful lunch in the crowded old Borough Market followed by some modern art at the Tate. Full day indeed.

Traveling day, but still a little time to check out London’s Soho neighborhood before we leave. Soho has been home to famous, infamous and ordinary Londoners since the 1700s. Shakespeare once wandered these streets as did the Beatles, with many others in between. Took the train to the airport and quickly found that 2 hours is not enough time to get through Heathrow security. Ended up running through the airport and were the last people to board the plane. Phew.