Off we go! After a wonderful, food- filled visit with Colin and Julie in LA we started to Beijing on an afternoon Air China flight. The flight hugged the California coast providing beautiful aerial views including San Francisco. It flew a northern arc over Alaska, across parts of Russian and finally traveling over northeast China into Beijing. We flew more over land than water and although we flew all night-12 hours- it was always daylight.

When we embarked from the airport train into Beijing it was dark but the street was lively. Google Maps directed us to our hotel via a narrow, dark alley for over 20 minutes but we survived. New places always seems scarier in the dark. Fortunately we found a small place nearby to grab a beer- or several actually-so all was well.

Our introduction to Beijing included a guide and driver taking us through the massive Forbidden City and out to the even larger Summer Palace. The Ming and Qing dynasties did nothing on a small scale. Finished the day with a 3 hour food and walking tour in the hutong area of Beijing. Fun but exhausting day.

Tried to be a chill day but still so much to see. Wandered the hutongs where we learned that status of the early residents was indicated by their entrances. Visited the many buildings of the Lama Temple which were originally built for the royal family in the 1600’s and given over to Tibetan monks in the late 1700’s.

Nothing more iconically China than the Great Wall. The section we visited-Mutianyu- is northeast of Beijing about an hour and a half away. Beautiful wooded area with sections of wall visible far into the distance snaking along the peaks. Stopped on our way back to see the Beijing Olympic Park where they hosted both a summer and winter games.

Ventured off on the subway today in hopes of visiting some sites south of the Forbidden City. Emerging from the station we could see Tiananmen Square from across huge intersections, but the area was a maze of police barricades and checkpoints and we had to finally give up. The Temple of Heavenly Peace was much easier to access and surrounded by lush gardens and wooded parks- a nice respite from the hot weather. Found a beer garden on our way back, and finished the day with Chinese opera followed by a cute bar spinning American blues albums. Such fun.

Enjoyed our last morning in Beijing at the Drum and Bell Towers. Iconic old timekeepers that once kept the public informed of the time and warned in emergencies. The train ride to Datong was scenic- traveling through mountain valleys and rich farm land. Just a hint of Datong as we arrived shortly before dinner.

Amazing day! Started with Yungang Grottoes- hand carved limestone caves with statues of Buddha and others created between 400-500 AD. Thousands of statues-some over 50 feet high- and over 50 caves all along the original Silk Road. Ended the day with the 1,500 year old Hanging Monastery cut into the rocky cliff face over 245 feet above the valley below. Such fun!

Lazy day in Datong before boarding a train for Pingyao. The Nine Dragon Wall is the oldest of the three original dragon walls in China dating to the 1300’s. Datong’s restored temples and reconstructed city walls are a testament to the city’s resilience. Hard to believe this was a scrappy coal town only a few decades ago. Fun visit.

Pingyao Ancient City is an incredibly well preserved walled city that feels like you are walking in a movie set. Most of the city dates to the Ming era (1300s-1500s) and apart from the neon additions to the main tourist street it still naintains that old character. Residents still live in the back alleys and mix with tourists at random intersections.

A little morning rain gave way to partly cloudy skies and plenty of time to wander the alleyways of Pingyao.

After a little morning wandering in Pingyao, we travelled to Xi’an via train, a three hour trip. We arrived in China’s busiest train station- it felt like a large airport terminal. Happily, Robbie was there to meet us or I imagine getting out of there would have taken us quite some time. The 14 miles from the airport to the hotel took over an hour in rainy, rush hour traffic. Xi’an is really huge!

Xi’an is a lot of things but few are as amazing as the Terra Cotta Warriors. The vast main hall is filled with partially excavated areas and thousands of reconstructed figures, and additional adjacent halls hold still more. These detailed sculptures date to late 200 BC and weren’t discovered until 1974.

We explored Xi’an on our own today venturing along and beyond the walls and delving into quaint streets inside the old city. Much to see and do in Xi’an.

Boarded the train for Chengdu in the morning. The Xi’an North station is as large as an airport. Having picked up a cold made travel a bit worse, but we arrived in Chengdu with time for tea, strolling, dinner and drinks. Menu translations are not always helpful, but all good.

Lazy day in Chengdu. Navigated the subways, negotiated for artwork, interpreted menus, and just enjoyed doing very little except being here.

Last day in Chengdu and we took advantage of the beautiful weather. People’s Park has to be one of the most used parks in China. Everywhere there are groups dancing, exercising, playing cards, sipping tea, or getting an ear cleaning. The landscape is lush and beautiful. There is even an area dedicated to helping single people to find a partner. Something for everyone.

Landed in Yushu on our way to Xining- 12,000 foot elevation. The flight was through rugged mountains the entire way with the plane coming down between mountains into the airport. We got off the plane before we realized where we were or how high we were. Super lightheaded and winded just from walking from the plane!

Xining is where we need to board the slow train to Lhasa. Unfortunately we are in the train that departs at 11:15pm so we had a lot of time to kill. We were toured about for a bit through the Muslim quarter, found some dinner and chilled out in the train station. As a rare westerner we are definitely an oddity.

The train left Xining after 11pm and daylight was breaking when we reached Golmud- which from 1984-2006 was as far as the train went. We slowly moved through an often spectacular, always barren landscape reaching an altitude of 16,640’. The scenery is sparsely dotted with wildlife, and regular inhabitants. The sleeper train is acceptable but not luxurious or particularly clean, but an interesting experience just the same.

Our first taste of Lhasa was from wandering about the narrow alleyways that comprise the old town where we are staying. The people are mostly Tibetan, some Buddhist, some Muslim, all smiling at us and friendly. They are dark skinned and bear little resemblance to their Chinese countrymen to the north. They make us feel quite comfortable in spite of the fact that we are exhausted by the +11,000 foot altitude.

We started our day at Norbulingka, the former summer residence of the Dalai Lama dating from 1755. Its an interesting collection of buildings amid a huge garden where Tibetan Opera was being performed outside. After, we visited the Sera Monastery, originally constructed in the 1400s it once housed as many as 6,000 monks. Today some 800 monks live and learn there. We had the chance to witness a Buddhist debate- a one-on-one challenge where a younger monk stands before a seated older monk, and slapping his hands poses basic philosophical questions - for two hours.

Potala Palace is something to be experienced. Construction began in the 1600’s and continued into the 1950’s. It has over 13 stories and 1,000 rooms. The climb up the stairs at this altitude is arduous but the place is a marvel. It served as the winter residence of the Dalai Lama until his exile in 1959. Definitely a bucket list site for architects. Also had milk tea in a crowded old space with hundred or so Tibetans!

We ventured into the mountains outside of the city to visit the cave monastery of Drak Yerpa. After driving some 34kms we climbed steps for 40 minutes up into prayer rooms and chapels set into caves in the side of the mountain. The highest was at 14,653 feet elevation. Spectacular scenery and peaceful visit without crowds of tourists.

Arrived in Kathmandu after a flight over the Himalayas and a view of Mt Everest. There was some question as to whether the Chinese were going to let Paul leave but we finally boarded the flight. Seemed it was actually harder to leave than arrive in China. We arrived in the expected chaos of Kathmandu but love it.

Our visit coincides with Dashain in Kathmandu. It’s one of the biggest festivals and spans 15 days. Highlights include animal sacrifices throughout the city with dead animals being brought to Durbar Square throughout the day. It was still great to see the city buzzing with activity and celebrations.

Made our way to Latipur- or Patan- today, once an important ancient city, now more of a Kathmandu suburb. The Durbar Square was magnificent and not at all crowded. Although several temples were destroyed in 2015, most have been faithfully restored or reconstructed. It was beautiful and peaceful.

Drove from Kathmandu to Nagarkot, a small community in the foothills east of the city in the Kathmandu Valley. Nagarkot sits at around 6,400 feet with views of the Himalayas on a clear day. Clouds rolled in but we hiked anyway and enjoyed the break from the pace of the city.

Sunset last night in Nagarkot came just before the rain returned. Climate change has extended the monsoon season and we are in the midst of it. First trip in 16 that we have had a wash out day but at least we’re in a nice hotel with a restaurant and bar. Lots of time for laundry and catching up!

Beautiful day for a walk. Set off for Changu Narayan Temple stopping at Bageshwori Bridge on the way. Walked through wooded areas and small villages as well. The temple dates to the 5th century but has undoubtedly seen numerous renovations over the years.

The driver took us to Namobuddha, then Panauti today and the trip was insane. I think if we knew how bad the roads were we wouldn’t have bothered. Where the roads weren’t under construction (completely dug up) they were covered in mud and debris from landslides! The temple and monastery were typical but for their high setting. Panauti is a scrappy, ancient city with two rivers running through it. Probably merited more than our short visit.

Arrived in Bhaktapur late yesterday afternoon. This ancient city is huge but the old part of town is accessible and not too crowded. Wonderful temples, great shopping streets, and plenty of places to eat and drink. What more could you want.

Back in Kathmandu. Some things never change. The streets are still crowded with Nepalis shopping and going about their days although the latest holiday has ended.. Did manage to find a Nepali jazz band warming up for the Jazz Festival this week. Amazing sitar player-Sita Maiya Rajchal. Such fun.

Leisurely day in Kathmandu with the crowds a bit lighter post Dashain. Durbar Square is much nicer to visit with less people, less incense, and no animal sacrifices! Incredible to see the amount of reconstruction that has occurred post 2015 earthquake. I feel we weren’t even fully aware of the extent of damage back then having not seen it before. Amazing.

Ventured out to Pasupatinuth Temple area to revisit the huge and interesting temple complex. Beyond the riverside ceremonies and cremations the hillside is filled with small family temples and temples dedicated to specific causes. Continued on to Boudha Stuoa, possibly the largest of its kind in the world. It is surrounded by shops and cafes, a fun place to explore.

Last day in Kathmandu. Opted to take in a museum of Nepali art and loved it. Wandered about some back streets from there just soaking up the local life.

Arrived in Hong Kong early after a sleepless flight. The heat and the humidity were a shock to our systems. Rainy and muggy but always still an interesting place to visit.

Took the Star Ferry across the harbor, and wandered about Hong Kong Island. We took the outdoor escalators up into the areas above Central, shopped for antiques, and visited what was once Victoria Prison and is now a museum, art, and retail center. Small groceries are great spots to cool off from the heat and have much to explore as well.

Ventured out to nearby Lantau Island. From the end of the train line we took a cable car up into the mountains in the center of the island to see the Big Buddha, a bronze sculpture installed in the early 1990s and sitting on a podium over 250 steps up. The cable car through the mountains is the real highlight however, reaching heights over 1,840 feet en route. Finished the day on a junk boat in Victoria Harbor.

Hong Kong for us is also about the architecture and it’s hard to ignore the new buildings that have been built since we last visited. The Henderson by Zaha Hadid was something to see, but still love the old double decker buses and sights of Central HK.

Last day in Hong Kong before we time travel back to LA. Visited the K11 Musea in Kowloon, an over-the-top, luxury shopping mall. The contrast of that with the nearby gritty streets and modest HK Museum of History is astounding. One last bowl of noodles and we we’re off!