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1
Roseau

Welcome to Dominica

After spending almost 2 months in Martinique devouring delicious pastry nearly every day, we were ready for detox. Despite mixed opinions we decided to visit Dominica, also know as Commonwealth of Dominica or Nature Island of the Carribean. We were pleasantly surprised that this “yet another British island” was the most beautiful island we had visited so far. It’s one of (if not THE) poorest British carribean islands with per capita GDP under $10k.

Dominica you is largely covered by rainforest, volcanoes, hot springs, waterfalls and 365 rivers. It has been recognized as a World Heritage Site with the second largest hot spring - Boiling Lake, and is the most mountaineous of the Lesser Antilles. It has the most live volcanoes of all Carribean islands. As a matter of fact, there are 9 live volcanoes, 7 of which are located within 10 km of the capital, Roseau.

Our first impression after mooring at Roseau mooring field with the help of a mooring field owner Marcus, was that the island was very green, mountainous and simply beautiful. All but 1 person we have met during our time in Dominica were extremely friendly and helpful.

2
Champagne Reef

Our first adventure took us to Champagne Reef and Scott’s Head reef. Both reefs had lots of live, but coral seemed to have been regrowing, but it was the Champagne Reef that surprised us the most with its famous bubbles.

Upon jumping into rather chilly water, we were greeted by 5 beautiful manta rays that gracefully swam with us for a little while before heading their own way. Stunned with the initial view, we went on to see the BUBBLES. We were not disappointed. We all got tickled by the bubbles while listening to dramatic humm coming from under the seabed. We felt as we were swimming in a glass of champagne.

3
Titou Gorge

Yay we got a car!

Equipped in 4 wheels and a steering wheel, we started our Dominica adventure by jumping into a cold water of Titou Gorge. The day was gloomy and cold, but the gorge was gorgeous and absolutely worth the shivers and purple lips.

Where Jack Sparrow tumbled down the George

After the “refreshing” swim we headed out to hike around Boeri Lake and Fresh Water Lake. For the first time since moving onto the boat, we used heating. We used all the heating we could including heated seats. All wet and shivering we needed that. We could barely see the lake due to the fog/clouds, so we decided to find hot springs. On our way we spotted the most colorful hut, with local fruit in the window and smoking bbq next to it. Froggys, the owner of the hut, turned out to be an amazing cook, who offered us a delicious home made lunch and hot tea brewed from freshly picked herbs from his garden. We devoured our meal while listening to the story of Frogies’ life and enjoying the view of endless jungle and ocean.

Fed and warm, we headed out to Trafalgar Falls. The waterfalls were just spectacular.

By now, the sun came up and we were hot again, so the trip to hot springs didn’t sound as appealing as earlier. We went anyway and didn’t regret the decision at all. After Froggys’ advice we opted for Ti Kwen Glo Cho hot springs. Those springs were surrounded by a beautiful garden and to our surprise day he water didn’t smell bad at all.

4
Extreme Dominica - Canyon Experience

Today was the Extreme Canyoning Adventure day.

Slightly nervous, dressed up in whole body wetsuits, helmets, life jackets and harneses, we sipped delicious cacao tea with coconut milk while practicing repelling and getting ready for the most extreme exciting adventure of our trip. Our guides Junior and Breani took us just a little down the river from Titou Gorge. We had the time of our lifes repelling off of steep rocks and jumping down the waterfalls. Boys had a blast, and screamed “energy” with every jump. Even our baby was fearless!

We definitely earned all those mango oat cookies that I made from the abundance of mangoes we had on the boat (curtesy of Marcus, who kept breinging us the fresh fruit almost daily)

5
Foxy’s Bakery

We spent the last day in Rousseau on collecting sea glass for our tray project, homeschooling and restocking our fridge. We love absolutely everything about this island.

Our “tray project”

My seaglass wasn’t nearly as exciting as Ian’s treasure

Ian’s treasure of the sea (2 old phones, 2 PCBs and and unidentified very important object)

I failed to include Ian’s favorite part of our time in Dominica. That was our visit to a Cocoa Cottage. We stumbled upon it by accident and it turned out to be this very private and secluded AirBnb with stunning views of the jungle and the owner that was making delicious stone oven pizza. While waiting for pizza boys made a new friend: Mia. Mia is probably the cutest puppy we’ve ever seen. By the time we were ready to leave, both boys fell in love with Mia but with broken hearts and hopes of coming back (someday) returned to the boat.

6
HGJP+4R Portsmouth, Dominica

The time to leave Roseau and head up north has come. After saying our goodbyes to Marcus (and receiving even more fruit), we sailed to Portsmouth (second largest town in Dominica).

Turns out every mooring field in Dominica has its Marcus. In Portsmouth, his name was Titus. He told us about the bbq on the beach and organized a trip down Indian River on the following day. We all made some new friends at the bbq, some of whom were polish: Maciek, his mom and her friend were the first polish people we met since Martinique. mom and friend were just visiting, Maciek and his girlfriend Kasia. Later we also met Piotrek, who sailed with Bartek and Ania across the Atlantic.

We enjoyed the calm day on Indian River, learning about local fish, birds and 365 rivers (one for each day of the year).

Discussing life and other serious matters

Waiting for rum punch.

We also found a fantastic fish market with delicious tuna, which soon became sushi and (surprise surprise) ceviche.

To be sushi

We run into our friends from SV Ella, so the boys were thrilled to have friends to play with.

We also got their car, so we could explore the north part of the island.

We visited Emerald pools, with beautiful emerald water and a jumping rock, which our fearless boys could not ignore.

In search of the national bird sisserou parrot. One doesn’t go out to the jungle without an umbrella.

Emerald pool

7
Red Rocks

We took a scenic drive to Red Rocks beach near Portsmouth. This unusual and breathtaking view was created thanks to a volcano explosion. Basalt rich lava, that came out of the volcano, set into a gray slate, but with time the iron started to oxidize and eventually rust, giving the newly formed rocks the stunning orange color. The rocks felt soft and rather fragile. You could easily chip it off and squish it into powder.

We also visited a chocolate factory (not visiting chocolate factories while in Carribean islands is not an option). While the employee wasn’t particularly knowledgeable or enthusiastic, she let us try all of their chocolate and even sent us home with a full bag of cacao shells for cacao tea.

Yep, we’ve seen drying cacao beans on every island north of St. Martin. This view doesn’t thrill Ian anymore

Ian’s new friend