Arrived in Amsterdam at 7am and was picked up in “Jade” our camper by Rene the guy who’s been storing her for us.

We stayed with friends David, Fiona and Osin for a few days in Rotterdam. Tulips are blooming.

Spent the day looking for used bikes and had dinner with our friends Stephen and Jing and their son Felix at San San

Stayed at an Aire in Belgium. These free or cheap parking areas around Europe are a big key to traveling cheaply in a camper. They are everywhere and we found an app that lists them all.

Paris 13th-15th

It’s hard to bypass Paris and there’s a really nice campground we’ve stayed at a few times. \240

We continued our search for the best pastries and we enjoyed a picnic at the gardens, went to the Modern Museum of Art, St Germain, and Latin Quarter. \240 The bike ride into town was challenging as we had to navigate our way across streets through the Paris Marathon.

Onto Normandy

We left Paris with many baguettes, croissants, quiches and tarts in our bellies. We had an eventful drive to Rouen that included a bomb scare, gas pump snafu, being clipped in a parking lot and new that the Notre Dame was on fire. But we arrived in Rouen and toured what would be the first of many medieval towns, by bike.

On to the D-day beaches. It's the 75th anniversary this year. We spent some time your in and reflecting on this historical event.

D-Day Beaches

On to the D-day beaches. It's the 75th anniversary this year. We spent some time reflecting on this historical event.

Mont St Michel

This medieval town is special and loved by the French. It’s on a island, which hasn’t always been accessible by bridge. We were there at low tide, it would have been interesting to see it at high tide as well. We wandered around, it was free, we love free!

St Malo

A brief stop/bike ride into St Malo. A walled town that was destroyed in the war, but rebuilt. The highlight was the view from the sea. The flag at half mast was likely in honor of Notre Dame.

French Countryside

We had a nice picnic in countryside and wanted to go for a bike ride . The local at the tourist info shop provided maps and directions. He was a theater actor, singer, comedian. He sang us a beautiful song. He spoke no English, we spoke no French. \240The map was poor, so we did an out and back. The first part of the ride was a walk up a canal and most of the \240ride was through villages. \240The countryside was sparkling green... We paid for camping this night. Hot showers, WiFi and dishes.

La Rochelle

We fulfilled Amy’s wishes of a French lunch in La Rochelle . We had a fabulous meal at Fluer de Sel, it was recommended by Lonely Planet as a locals favorite. . For Danso: Avocado shrimp spring rolls, bass with red pepper sauce, cookie with pistachio cream and strawberries. For Amy: salmon tartare, crumbled fish bake with saffron, and Fluer de sel mousse with coffee ice cream. Preset meals were only €21 each. \240

After lunch, we rode our bikes along the waterfront and made it back to the van two minutes before getting a parking ticket.

Bordeaux

We cannot really claim much time spent in Bordeaux. We drove through in the evening and did a quick walk in the center of town. From what we could tell, the vibe was young and vibrant.

Cap Ferret Beaches and Bikes

Spent the morning walking along a beach next to an aire we camped at. \240Watched some surfers and collected shells. We went into the woods for a picnic lunch then did a 25km ride on one of the many bike trails. Back to the beach for a nice sunset/moonrise : )

Lac Sanguinet, France

In search of flat water on our first 30c degree day we went up to a lake 30 minutes away. It was windy but we paddled up a small river of of Lake Sanguinet. \240After paddling we went to \240Dune du Pliat. Europe's largest sand dune! In true European fashion there were steps up most of the dune : ) Had a picnic dinner on the top and saw a sweet triple sunset there (it dropped through several cloud layers). We drove to French basque country that night and camped at an aire in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Easter and Jamon Festival

On Easter we didn't expect grocery stores or boulangerie's (bakeries) to be open but they were in the morning so we stocked up on more food, croissants, and baguettes and headed into Basque country on the eastern coast of France. We decided to head to Bayonne to check out some of the chocolatiers there. Apparently Jewish chocolatiers were run out Spain and forced to settled there. When we got there to our surprise there was a huge ham festival happening. Not just any ham festival but the 565th annual!! We sampled some but ended up having some delicious Thai food ; ) We also found some delicious chocolate at a couple of the chocolate shops. From there we headed towards the Spanish border. We stopped just shy of the border in French Basque country. Stayed at an aire in the foothills of the Pyrenees.

Basque Country & San Sebastián, Spain

We awoke the next morning to fireworks! It seems it there was a festival celebrating all things Basque. We bought some tasty pocket sandwiches overflowing with bacon and Manchego for brunch along with some home made chocolate cake with walnuts. Then we drove the scenic route towards San Sebastian, on a windy mountain road with stunning coastal views. We stopped and did some hiking along the ridge taking in more sweeping views. We noticed a few hikers with packs and started wondering if this was the Camino del Santiago and after a conversation with a couple of hikers confirmed that it was. If you're not familiar it is a famous pilgrimage trail in Spain. \240After the hike we made our way to San Sebastian. Beautiful town! Although it was still April we spent some time at their pretty beach. Then we jumped on our bikes and rolled around the city and along the promenade . They have good bike trails, nice markets, restaurants and shops. Had pinxtos (Basque tapas) but were disappointed by the price and quality so we went to an Italian place for pizza. We ended up meeting a nice Norwegian/American couple (Nikolai and Kavita).

San Sebastián and Bilbao

We woke up at the futbol stadium after a relatively good nights sleep. We checked out the Basque museum in town. Very enlightening. There was also an interesting exhibit on death (the great teacher). It looked at the ways different cultures view death and mourn. We rode back to the camper and discovered we had a low tire on the camper so we had to get it fixed. That put us behind schedule for our Bilbao visit. We rolled in just as the sun was setting and the Guggenheim was closing. Took some cool pics of the exterior as we walked around it. Really enjoyed it. We'll have to come back to check out the inside. Cooked dinner on the street before pushing further into Spain.

Santillans Del Mar & Picos de Europa National Park, Spain

A beautiful drive through Northern Spain. Very lush! Took a walk around Santillans del Mar after a camper lunch and splurged on molten lava cake. it was a picturesque medieval town. \240We drove through a few more towns before heading up to the Picos de Europa National Park. Here we drove up a narrow granite canyon that really tested Jade's power. We got up to snow level and stopped in one of Spains highest towns. Went for a nice hike with views of freshly snow capped peaks! Headed back down to the coastal road after and had dinner in the camper with a view of wet suited surfers. Another night in a beach side aire (Villavicicosa) falling asleep to sounds of la mer.

Rainy drive day, Northern Spain

We walked the beach in the morning and only saw one other person, it was very peaceful! This ended up being mostly a drive day as it was a rainy day. We drove down the northwestern coast and through Compostilla where the Camino de Santiago ends and then all the way to Praia de Ancora in Portugal. We stayed in an actual campground. Stir fry for dinner. Danso had a conference call and Amy did laundry.

We woke up to the sound of the river behind us we drove to a nearby town and had the plato de dia for 6 euros. Grilled fish, potato and salad (2 euros extra for butter) On to Porto. Lots of history here and very distinct and colorful architecture. Its also a university town, we were reminded of this by a serenade by some students dressed in traditional black capes. Walked the narrow streets of the old town. And watched the colorful boats that transport the local port wine. We did a quick shop in town and had dinner in the van on the outskirts with a nice ocean view. Stayed at another aire by the sea rocked to sleep by the surf.

Coimbria, Portugal

We walked the beach and dunes in the morning and drove to Coimbra, Portugals \240university and one of Europes oldest, it was founded in the late 13th century. More toll roads along the way! Are there any free roads here?? We walked through the University it was the day after graduation for many but we still saw some students in their black capes which we were told they wear all the time. Town was quiet so we had a slice of pizza and 25 cent beers before a walk in the local park. Then on to Lisbon.

Lisbon, Portugal

We arrived in Lisbon in the late afternoon and parked in the outskirts because Jade is a diesel and we aren's supposed to drive here into the heart of a lot of cities. We took the metro in and popped up in a very multicultural part of the city. Lisbon is very diverse! Bought some things in an asian market and then headed for the old town and harbor. We were obsessed with all the beautiful tiles that are used on the outside of the buildings. They all seemed to be one of a kind and never duplicated.

We watched the sunset then went to a market that specializes in local sausage and cheese for apps. Tried to make it to a taco place that got good reviews but it was too busy so we found a nice little cafe and had a nice meal. Went back to hear a Brazilian band that was on break so we wandered around and found another night spot that had a traditional fado band playing with people inside and out singing and dancing to the sounds. Very sweet (check out the vid). Got late so we caught the metro back to the camper and drove out to a spot on a beach north of town were we had a good sleep after the local beach club settled down. Getting really used to this beach front camping : )

More Of Lisbon

Breakfast at the beach before driving back into Lisbon. We parked outside the city and rode our bikes into town on a nice waterfront bike trail. Nice lunch at a Mozambique place. Followed up with flawless chocolate cake! Left the city and drove to a park with a lagoon by the coast.

Danso paddled the lagoon while Amy went to the beach. Big surf in Portugal! Took some cold beach showers and headed south. Stopped to make dinner at a pretty beach next to a strange private zoo?! \240Stopped for the night at a nice spot on a cliff above the sea. More surf snoozing.

We hiked a sweet undeveloped area with stunning cliff/ocean views. Had lunch and then headed for a fort that marks the Southwest most part of Europe. Then east to Lagos where we had a very nice ocean paddle complete with sea caves and arches. Drove to yet another free spot by the sea for the night.

Seville

Met up and met a nice older Dutch couple. We get a lot of dutch folks coming up and speaking dutch to us because of our NL plates. Hiked the beach into town for a our daily fresh bread fix. Lots of sea life on the beach. After lunch we drove back into Spain, Portugal was great but we're happy to be rid of all of the tolls. Got into Seville late afternoon on a holiday but were able to find a strange spot to camp a storage facility on the outskirts of town. Bussed into town and enjoyed an afternoon/evening in town. Enjoying the sights, shade and cool evening air. It was a hot one! Heard some music and watched some futbol. Headed back after some paella.

Parque National De Dona

We decided that even though we were on an extended vacation, that we would make time for our bi-annual 2-week Ayurvedic Cleanse. \240This day marks day 1 of 14. \240We also had some added fun this day, as Danso smashed his phone in the tent camper component. \240We spent part of the day in Seville, buying him a new used phone, then spent another night on the beach at Parque National Donana.

5/3 Our days are beginning to slow down, with the cleanse. \240We decided to stay another night at the beach, after a day strolling the beach and the beach boardwalk.

El Rocio

We woke to an overcast and cool morning and took a walk in the adjacent dunes, and then headed inland to a campground in El Rocio. \240El Rocio is a interesting dirt road town that is a pilgrimage site that has a cult like following and is very bright in color. \240There are often Spaniards on horse and in carriages riding through the town, as they are also used for the pilgrimage. \240 The town is also adjacent to the National Park Donana, where there is a wetland lake, with pink flamingoes.

We spent the morning in Donana National Park, birdwatching from multiple bird blinds. \240It was a peaceful morning, with few tourists to share the blinds with. \240We hit the road, back through Seville to restock supplies, and then onto Algodonales.

Grazelema National Park

The mountain views were spectacular in this area, and we realized we were close to a National Park. \240We drove through Zahara de la Sierra, a white washed town perched on the side of a mountain, with a man made lake, that sadly you cannot paddle in. \240We carried on through a series of switchbacks, steep and narrow roads, to Grazalema National Park. \240We hiked a few kilometers up a steep trail with lovely views, and had a cleanse pick-nick back at the camper. \240 We carried on through the mountains to the sea in search of a campground to call home for the next 7 days of the cleanse. \240None of the campgrounds fit the bill, so we stayed on the beach for free another night.

Camping & cleansing

Our home for the week was at a very basic campground in El Hornillo, with direct access to the beach, a saltwater pool, pickle-ball courts (we played, we set up our hammock, set up our awning, and spread out...The green sunshades overhead are common in these parts, giving you relief from the sun. \240We grew to appreciate them, even though they didn't feel very natural at first. \240The campground also had open borders, with really no privacy which makes for good people watching and good sea views. \240Our 7 nights here were healing, just what we were looking for wrapping up the main part of the cleanse feeling lighter, clear-headed and and vibrant.

Post Cleanse!

After coming off the main detox and into integration, out tastebuds were blown with a local melon. \240We spent the morning shopping, making lunch, then drove north towards Granada. We slept at Rules Reservoir with a beautiful sunset. \240No paddling was allowed on this water.

Sierra Nacional Parque

We had intentions of hiking a canyon in another town, but after a detour up to Sierra Nevada National Park, where there is a ski resort, we decided to hike in the high country. \240It was a windy day, and it was a march straight up, with low energy from the cleanse (which is almost over). \240It was fun for us to see the park in the spring, as we skied here in 2017, while living in The Netherlands. \240From here we drove to Monochil for the canyon hike the next day, and met a hilarious Dutchman along the way as we were stopped on the side of a country road. \240We shared \240'93 Diesel VW California stories with him, as he was a proud owner. \240He shared that the upcoming hill was very steep and that van couldn't handle 2nd gear.

Monachil

We camped at the trailhead for a quick start to the canyon hike out of Monochil. \240The trail was spectacular. \240It began up a river trail and after many steps and suspension bridges it opened up to the mouth of a beautiful canyon. \240The canyon involved many hand grabs, low hanging rocks and interesting scrambles and scootches under overhanging rocks. \240We hiked a large hill out of the canyon, and the loop ended after walking through village farms, where we gorged on cherries directly off the trees. \240We spent the evening driving to Madrid.

Madrid

We spent the next 3 nights in a random parking lot just outside the city center of Madrid, where there were many other campers parked. \240It served it's purpose, was surprisingly quiet, but was not at all sexy or scenic. \240The metro was only a 10 minute walk and there was a grocery/mall/bathroom across the street. \240For lunch we discovered what would be our restaurant for the next 5 meals, Honest Greens. \240I know this sounds crazy when you are in such a fabulous city, but the fact was that we were really trying to integrate out of the cleanse, as healthy as possible and this place hit the spot and was packed every time we were there. \240As we do in many cities, we took the free (donation) walking tour, which made it easy for us to see all the main highlights of this city. \240The city is surprisingly young, in comparison to most European cities. \240Our tour guide had a lot of stories about the past kings and queens, which kept us laughing. \240He also taught us that tapas should be free, that the Madrileños eat about 6 meals a day, and that churros and chocolate are typically eaten in the meal before dinner. \240We have done many of these walking tours and highly recommend them. \240From the tour we went to the Prado Museum, it was free for a few hours in the evening. \240In Spain, it seems that they reserve a few hours a week or even 1 day a week where museums may be free or highly discounted. \240We enjoyed the locals favorite (and tourists too) Sunday Flea Market. \240It was PACKED with people. \240Another one of our go-to spots in the city, is exploring the city park. \240This park is not be missed if you are in Madrid.

Bunol

After spending the day in Madrid, we drove towards Valencia. \240We stopped in Bunol, where the largest food fight in the world occurs in the summer. \240A tomato fight! We could only dream of this, being there off season, as we slept to the sound of the river in the background.

Valencia

Parking on the outskirts of town and riding bikes into town, saves money, parking stress, and allows you to see things you might not have otherwise seen. \240In Valencia, they have a beautiful city park, that is 7 km long, built in the old river bed. \240In 1957 there was a devastating flood, so the city rerouted the river and converted the riverbed into a park with a bike trail \240that goes under all of the old bridges. .Clever, and you can really see the aspect of the past with all the bridges, steps and how the park is set down from the road. Our day consisted of a free art museum, a trip to central market (indoor market), and the obligatory meal of Paella. \240We ordered the traditional, with chicken and rabbit and I swear it took so long for this meal to cook that they went out and caught the rabbits after we ordered. \240We literally scraped the pan clean it was so good. \240After lunch we rode over to the modern and locally controversial \240(due to cost and image), Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias. \240We snapped some pics, and rode back to the van. \240In search of a place to rest our heads, we ended up back on the beach.

5/22 Today was a simple day. \240A beach day, and drove to another spot of the beach for rest.

L’Ametlla

We spent 2 nights in L'Ametlla de Mar. \240The parking lot was just up from the beach and was a great launching spot for a day of SUPing coves and evening walks along the cove trails. \240The sea was still nippy in May, but Danso went for a swim.

We drove to Barcelona in the pouring rain, and parked the camper at an aire that was a 40 minute metro ride from the center of town. \240The rain let up and we spent the evening wandering around Barca.

Barcelona

We had a full day in Barcelona; free (donation) tour, a great Indian lunch, relaxation and people watching on Barcelita (the local beach), and a visit to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia. \240We decided that we regretted not going last time we were in Barcelona, so we splurged on some tickets. \240If you go, time it in the evening when the light is shining through the glass work. \240There is also a museum downstairs that explains Gaudi's design with nature. \240For example, the large pillars in the church are designed to make you feel like you are in a large forest, and he achieves that feeling.

We made a quick trip into Barcelona (with the van), after scoring a primo parking spot right at the city beach. \240We hopped on the bikes and had lunch before we headed north to Costa Blanca. \240Couple of hours in a pretty little beach then we slept all alone at another beach, and had a windy nights sleep.

Figures

We spent the morning on the beach and headed to Figures, home of the famous artist, Salvador Dali. \240We had been here in 2016, visited his museum and had a fabulous Catalan 12 Euro meal. \240We had been dreaming of going back for round 2 at this locals restaurant. \240It may have been better the first time, but we thoroughly enjoyed it the second time. \240From here, we pushed onto Girona for a quick bike ride through the medieval town and then onto Andorra (yes, it was a long day).

Andorra

5/28 Andorra is a geography lesson for most. \240It sits in the Pyrenees between Spain and France, and is known for biking and more notably skiing (oh and shopping for Europeans). \240It has a population of ~75,000 and is incredibly mountainous. \240They host a nice overnight parking lot by the raging river, at the Spanish border. \240After spending some time in town, we headed up to one of the ski resorts and went for a hike. \240It wasn't clear from the trailhead that we would be hiking in the snow (on the ground and then falling from the sky), but we were prepared with down coats, hats and hiking poles. \240There were 3 small lakes (mostly covered by snow), and we only saw a few others.

Parc Natural de la Vall de Sorteny

Another scenic drive up and over a mountain, with some spectacular views. \240Then hiking up to a lake, about 1500 feet gain in 2.5 miles. \240We had some tricky (mostly steep) snowfields to get through and ended up at a snow-covered lake. \240Again, few people on the trail. \240Danso was impressed by the tadpole pond along the trail. \240After we pressed on to France and the Midi Pyrenees and camped at a rural farm for 10 Euros.

Cirque d’Estaube

We drove to/through Lourdes, France in search of more hiking at Cirque d'Estaubé. \240A steep drive up to the trailhead brought us to a reservoir then wide open fields, a crystal clear river, marmots, and waterfalls everywhere. \240Nature is so healing.

Another Cirque hike. This one the more popular Cirque d'Gavarnie. We hiked the less travelled path and found ourselves in a yellow flowered meadow with a sweet view of the cirque. Over to the river to filter some fresh water and then on to the Mid Pyrenee for a paddle on the Dordogne river.

Danso did a bike shuttle and we had a nice long day on the river Dordogne. Beautiful river that meanders through the countryside. We had lunch on the river and after helped some canoeists who had a bit of trouble with one of the few rapiddy sections. Danso had arranged parking at a campground with an Italian woman who ran it with her Dutch husband. Had a nice chat with her about running a campground. Drove to Orleans and watched Liverpool with the Champions League Final. Quiet nights camp in a nearby park.

Early start for Paris. Hit a nice outdoor market and got some produce and fromage. Found a nice Sunday morning parking spot in the heart of things and did our usual walk about. Notre Dame post fire, cafe stop, lunch at Le Crete (Cretian place we really like) got Grandma's special lamb dish as per usual, Museaum Orangier (cool modern art museum) which was free on first sunday, cool painting and skating by the river then back to Jade for the push towards Amsterdam.

Amsterdam

Why back to Amsterdam? We decided to swap campers. We actually bought 2 old vw campers thinking we would bring them home and start a rental biz. We've since rethought that but are still planning to bring the syncro (awd) one home. Before we did that we thought we should take him (Zwirkel) for a spin to see how he performed. We arrived at Rene's storage facility in the morning and were informed that Zwirkel was making the popping noise that we had told him about but it he hadn't had a chance to have it diagnosed. So instead of swapping we got a spot at the local campground and did our thing there walking around listening to music at the park and enjoying the world's best apple pie at Winkel 43.

6/4 Slow day, we stayed at camp. Waxed Jade. Danso had a work day for his mindfulness programs and we played some Boule in nearby park making it back just before a big thunderstorm.

Back into the city. Its very convenient from the campground a short bike ride to a free ferry and you're there. Hit the library to do a bit of work and then dinner. We found out Zwirkel was ready to go. Stayed at an aire on a cheese farm that night.

Crazy drive on windy country back roads to get to Rene's because of traffic. Swapped the vans house batteries and unpacked and repacked then on the road. Zwirkel while the same color as Jade is a bit bigger. He is a high top meaning he has a high roof so you don't have to pop him and he's a bit longer so he has a lot more storage space. He's also a petrol(gas) model so he has a bit more power. Downsides are he's a bit less maneuverable and gets worse gas mileage. \240Headed towards Lichtenstein for cheap gas on our way south. Stayed at a nice aire in a park by the river.

Lunch in Dijon. Yes the mustard town. Bought some of course including some basil and curry varieties. Continued through the Rhone region to Aiqueze a nice medieval village on our way to paddle the Ardeche river. Stayed at a nice spot overlooking town.

Arranged a shuttle for the Ardeche. A very pretty river that flows through a limestone canyon. It was Saturday and there were lots of people out on the river. The upper river had 4 slides. Never seen them before. They let you come down the small dams on the river. Actually kind of fun! Near the end of the paddle is the Pont D'Arc a huge natural arch the river has carved out. Very unique! Fun Day! Packed up and headed up into the mountains stopped for a roadside dinner and then up to the aire. We were directed across the road because of a festival the next day however.

We awoke to rain which seemed to have put a damper (pun intended) on the festival. We headed down and ran into a nice market which supplied our daily bread and some fruit and veggies. We entered the Provence region and toured some of the towns including Roussion which is known for its ochre mine. They've been supplying ochre for centuries. Most of the buildings have a red hue because of this. After our tour we went to the heart of the region Aix-en-Provence. We parked outside of town and rode in. We were rewarded with some free music. It was some African music that was great to shake your rump to! Late night pizza and a drive to a gated aire.

Strolled from camp in the morning then on the La Lavandou. A beach town we visited a few years ago and really enjoyed. Nice day at a very pretty beach, nice cold showers, then raced back to the van ahead of mosquitos. Amy got a pretty dress at an outdoor stall that she bought one at last time we were here. Also got some delish pastries (Raspberry crumble and chocolate cake) before Thai food and a ferris wheel! Finished the evening watching locals play boule. They take it very seriously but still have fun. Too late and too much wine to drive so a boondock night. Found a quiet but unfortunately mosquitoie spot. Tough nights sleep.

Drove to Nice for a 2pm Ferry to Corsica. We were going to go to Crete but the delay getting Zwirkel made us reconsider and we haven't been. Nice drive to Nice and smooth sailing to Bastia on the Isle of Corse.

Cap Corse

There ist much free camping on Corsica, but this free spot was sweeeet. We spent the day walking along the coastal trail, swimming and walked to be next village. It was a quiet nights sleep with just a few other campers.

Cap Corse

We drove down the Cape Corse which is a scenic road down a finger-like peninsula. Passed Centuri a town known for its lobster but we passed. Did stop at Lozari Beach then we camped close by under some trees.

Drove into L'Île-Rousse and had lunch. Then we checked out the beach and walked out toward a lighthouse. Saw a dolphin just swimming around in circles it was strange. W left and Drove to Calvi the next town to resupply and then took a less travelled road up and over some passes. We pulled over at a lookout with a nice view , on a very windy road, and had dinner. Almost no traffic so we decided to stay there for the night.

We drove down to one of the few spots from our aire app that allowed free parking/camping on the Island. A nice spot near a pretty black pebble beach and a really gorgeous bay. We pumped up the paddle boards and had a sweet paddle all around the bay. Then we found a place on the rocky coast where we could hoist the boats up have a bite and relax to surf sounds for a while. That afternoon we walked the beach and caught the sunset walking the beach. Nice surf sound sleep.

We woke up and drove up to a very narrow but pretty section of road towards a town called Porto. It was a bit hairy trying to get by vehicles on narrow stretches of the road. Then our steering started making noises! The wheel got hard to turn and was making a strange noise. Driving very slowly we made our way into Porto and found a place to pull over. Was this related to the noise we had repaired in Amsterdam? Danso reached under the console and found some wires wrapped around the steering wheel shaft. Turns out an old blue tooth device someone had installed on the van had come loose and wrapped itself around the steering. Pulled it out and removed the wires. Good to go. We stopped by the store and got some supplies then headed up another narrow road toward a canyon hike. Then we started have trouble getting the an into gear. Finally we came into a small town but there was nowhere to park. We pulled over and Danso jammed it into reverse then Amy guided him up the narrow road forcing cars to back up until he could make a 3 point turn. Rolled back to Porto. What to do. Its a 80km trip up and down a steep and windy road to the next town with mechanic. We decided to go to a nearby campground and luckily met up with the friendly owner named Guy (Ghee) who called a tow truck operator who came by. He said he could take us but not until Tuesday. Its Saturday. The fee was very steep but what could we do. Thankfully Guy let us camp in his parking lot for free. It was located on a nice river which we walked along and found a nice spot to swim and wash off some of the days dust.

We spent the day riding our bikes into Porto. Stopped by the tourism office to try and find a better deal on towing but no dice so we went to the beach. Nice one, we broke our paddle ball record and then had some lunch before heading back to the camper. Chatted with a guy we met the day before who worked at the campground and had lived in Boulder the same time we did. He's a cross fit trainer and moves all around doing that. After Boulder he was in Iceland and now on Corse.

The tow truck driver showed up promptly at 7:15am luckily the bakery opened at 7 so we were ready to go croissants in hand. Beautiful drive, fortunately we got to see much of the Calanques de Piana, pink spires along the coast even if we couldn't hike them. The whole drive was pretty and uneventful. We got to a suburb of the capital Ajaccio and he dropped us off at the mechanic. Google conversation translate came in very handy as we told him about our problem and he tried to explain about getting parts. We left him with the understanding that he would be in touch later and we could sleep in it in his lot that night (we're so cheap). We took the bus into town and walked around. It has a small but pretty beach but is pretty touristy so we weren't too inspired. We found a bench in the shade and sat down. \240Soon 3 older folks came walking by and were eyeing our bench in the shade. We scooched over and let them sit. 3 hours later we said good bye. They were from Toulouse and have been coming to Corsica for over 35 years. We heard lots of good stories and got lots of advice since the man was a former english teacher. In fact they were all educators so they talked some shop with Danso. After bidding them adieu we caught a bus to the airport and rented a car. Drove back to the camper and had a mosquito-y night.

We packed up the rental car with our camping gear and headed for Porto Vecchio. It was Wednesday and the mechanic said the van wouldn't be ready until Friday so we decided on a road trip. Windy but beautiful drive over the top of the island. \240Danso has fun driving the zippy car! We found a nice campsite and then drove to Palombaggia Beach said to be the prettiest on the Island and it didn't disappoint. We were able to park down by the water and blow the SUPs up there. We should have taken them right out as the conditions were nice when we got there but we were hungry so we had a bite. After digesting a bit we decided to go out. Unfortunately the wind had picked up. Danso made out to a small Island nearby and Amy tied off on a buoy and relaxed. Still a good time despite the wind. We relaxed a while longer and set a new paddle ball record before Danso had another paddle and we packed up. Dinner in Porto Vecchio that night. A very sweet little town on the hillside over looking the sea. Ice cream on the way back to the car and then we walked toward some music in another part of town. Listened to a band for a bit before heading back to camp. Good night sleep in the tent which turns out to be a much better refuge against mosquitos than the camper.

Packed up camp and headed to another local beach. We had to do some exploring but ended up finding a great parking spot and took the boats down to what turned out to be a beautiful but very crowded beach. Paddled across the bay and found our own private beach where we set up for the day. Good times and then back across, packed up and hit the road for Ajaccio. Dropped the car off. Went back to the camper and found out the part wouldn't be in until Monday : ( On the bright side less mosquitos that night.

6/21 The next day we decided to get a room nearby since the car wouldn't be ready. We found a nice Airbnb and they even offered to pick us up. We did a shop and met at the grocery store. It was very close by the mechanic and run by a sweet older couple. Her name is Santa and her husband Willie. They took us back and we shared a drink on their patio and chatted for quite a while before making dinner and decompressing over a bottle of wine. \240We stayed here 3 nights and stayed around the house because it was oh so nice to be in a home, after being in the camper for a few months.

6/24 After anxiously awaiting news from the mechanic, the part had arrived from the mainland and the van was repaired. \240Turns out the tow was more than 2x the cost of the labor and parts for the issue. \240We wanted off that island as soon as possible, to avoid any other chances of getting stuck on the island, and were lucky enough to catch one of the few ferries that leave from that town each week. \240The 5 hour sail to Toulon was beautiful. \240We spent most of the sailing outside on the deck, in the sun, until it was time to celebrate our anniversary. \240We found a quiet spot on the carpet inside the ferry (next to the dog-potty), and shared a day old rotisserie chicken and bag of popcorn. \240We drove a few hours into Italy, and pulled in late at a free aire on the ocean.

The past 2+ months we were traveling through the Schengen area which allows for borderless crossings for 3 months in most of Western Europe. \240We knew we needed to exit Schengen for about 3 weeks during our 4 month stay, so we were eager to get out of Schengen after the delay in Corsica. \240 Our original plans of driving through Italy and taking a ferry to Albania were scrapped because the breakdown slowed us down by about a week. So our time was limited in Italy to 1 day, and we had plans to eat well in that day, with at least 2 good Italian meals. \240We got a early startWe got a early start this morning, with a 9 hour drive ahead of us, which is a pretty long haul in European standards. \240Our goal was to get the Croatian border before midnight. \240A few things went not as planned that day. \240The cap on Amy's potty throne broke. Then she dropped her phone and it broke but the most notable was Danso's encounter at a gas station on the toll freeway. We pulled into a pump and an attendant showed up turns out it was more expensive. Go to number 5 he said for self serve. It turns out pump 5 only has one side so we have to back into it. Amy went into get coffee and Danso turns the camper around. There's a small white car getting gas which pulls out so he backs in. Boom! The heart dropping sound of contact followed closely by pounding on the van and an Italian curse out. It turns out the little white car hadn't pulled all the way out : ( Fortunately by the time Amy got back shocked to see the bike rack bikes sprawled next to a dented car Danso had managed to resolve the situation. A 20 minute trip to a bancomat some repair money to a very understanding guy Simone and we were on our way. Sans bike rack. We had to put the bikes inside. We got some good pizza in Piacenza a cute walled college town, very bike friendly. We continued the long drive through Italy and Slovenia, and made it into Croatia just before midnight. \240Thankfully the border crossing was smooth. \240 The agent didn't say hello (or goodbye) or ask us any questions. It was as really long day, and we had to decide if we were going to camp illegally (it's illegal to sleep in your car/camper in Croatia), and at that point we had no choice but sleep in a parking lot. \240We didn't get hassled, but the stories are out there.

At this point in the summer, the weather was really getting warm, in fact, there was a massive heat wave in France breaking records, and it was felt in Croatia at a lesser degree. \240We got up early, took a rinse at the shower on the beach that we parked at over night, and searched for wifi and AC. \240Which took us to our office, McCafe. \240We surely overstayed our welcome there of 4+ hours, but accomplished making a lose plan for our time in Croatia. \240Our next mission was to drop off the bikes that were living inside the camper, with intentions of picking them up when we head back up to Amsterdam. \240We had another steering issue while trying to find a spot for the bikes. \240When Danso turned a hairpin turn, the carpet under the passengers side ripped up and it turns out that the wire issue from Corsica wasn't resolved. \240 We found more wires wrapped around the steering shaft, so Danso had to take out the tools in the 95 degree heat and do some work. \240After this was resolved, we drove a few hours to a campground by Platvice Lakes.

Platvice Lakes National Park is one of Croatias top tourist destinations and it's oldest National Park.. Turquoise lakes, endless cascading waterfalls and rivers runming below boardwalks. \240It's magical, almost out of a fairy-tale.

We spent six hours touring the park via foot, shuttle and electric boat and we're in awe of all the parks features. \240

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Digi Otak here we come (via car ferry). 2 hour sailing from Zadar, After.a close call making the ferry while we were in town gettings Amys phone fixed.

Dugi Otak, Croatia

Sakarum beach was magical. It was a 10 minute walk from our campground. Spent the day there and then back to camp for another sunset paddle.

We were eager to get on the water for a full days SUP, but not mentioned in a previous post, we had a mishap with a rock a few days prior. \240We had read that most sea kayaks were plastic due to sharp rocks, and we experienced this first hand. \240Luckily we were on land, at camp, after a sunset paddle when we put the SUP up against the sea wall, when it punctured. \240So...we had to let the glue dry 24 hours which meant this was our first day out on the bay. \240We paddled from camp, across a few bays, by a few islands, by many nude sail boats, to a double beach. \240It was pretty far, and really worth it. \240We were greeted in the distance by 2 nude Italian families, and another couple, and we set up camp for a few hours. \240Danso sailed home via a SUP-sail with our beach umbrella. \240It was a full day, and it was beautiful. \240We treated ourselves to dinner at the campground restaurant, which was disappointing considering how much we eat out and the amount it cost. \240Corsica isn't that cheap, especially on the islands.

In the heat of the day, we rented eMountainBikes and rode about 25 km to a few villages and beaches. \240The highlight was a cove where many sailboats were anchored. \240We scootched around the corner and had our own cove to swim and eat lunch. \240The bikes were good fun, and we drained every bit of the batteries from all the steep hills.

7/2 We spent a few hours at Sakarun beach before catching the ferry back to the mainland. \240We had eaten all the food we had in the camper and it was time to resupply and diversify from beach-time. \240The ferry ride was 2 hours and dropped us in Zadar where we shared a pizza and strolled through old town. \240We camped on the beach, in a parking lot that was supposed to charge us in the morning, but we scooted out early and didn't have to pay.

Krka National Park

Krka National Park is about 1.5 hours from Split. It’s a beloved park by the many tourists, rightfully so.

The park had less to explore than Platvice Lakes NP, but the main attraction was breathtaking.

7/3 Of the many National Parks in Croatia, Krka came recommended. \240We arrived early(ish) to try to beat the crowds and heat, but didn't succeed. \240While it was similar to Platvice in some ways, it's unique and known for 1 very beautiful waterfall. \240A steep $30 entrance fee gave us access to a few areas in the park, we visited 2. \240They take you on a bus down a steep road, and drop you off at a boardwalk (one-way due to all the people) that is built over the river. \240There are a few view points, but after about 20 minutes you reach a beautiful fall where you can swim and enjoy the view. \240From the falls, it's a quick walk back up to the bus with a few viewpoints along the way. \240Stop 2 was a 40 minute drive away so a less frequented area, \240Roski Slap. \240The highlights were a cave, views of "necklace falls", oh, and a refreshing bu technically illegal swim.

An evening in Split, Croatia

After a very hot nights sleep in a random parking lot in Split, we drove 3 hours to take a ferry to Mljet Island.

Two weeks prior, I had received a text from a dear friend from college asking where we were this summer. In this synchronous world we live in, we both happened to be in Croatia at the same time.

So here we are, soaking up the good vibes of life and friendship. We are so grateful for you Seth and Lucia for sharing your vacation with us. ❤

We had a leisurely morning in the room we rented and decided to blow up the SUPs for the day. \240We met Seth and Lucia at the beach for some day drinking, SUPing and then up to their infinity pool in the afternoon. \240We cooked them a 'van-style' dinner and they were impressed by what we could pull off. \240We doubled up on the SUPs and went out for a sunset paddle (although there wasn't much of a sunset) and then played one round of boule before the mosquitoes scared us away. \240What a fun treat to be with old friends.

We had grand plans for this day. \240We were going to explore the island in the van, taking in the quaint villages and swimming spots, and drop Seth and Lucia off at their ferry for Hvar. \240We managed to get one swim in, and then the van decided not to start. \240Luckily we were at the ferry port, attempting to get our ticket in advance of the sailing. \240Plans changed, we said goodbye, they took a taxi \240across the island, and we made friends with a Brit and Frenchman to help push start the van, which wasn't successful. \240 \240Amy worked her magic with the the ferry worker and they let us push the van onto the ferry. \240On the mainland we got a tow after inquiring at the local bar. \240The driver took us 10 kms, which ended up being his garage, if you can call it that. \240It looked more of a junk yard. \240We were a bit concerned but there weren't any other options, he spoke no english. \240He worked on the van for a few house on a Saturday evening and didn't have any luck. He kept saying electronico, and we managed to understand that he needed to wait until Monday to have the van further diagnosed. \240We got a room in a nearby town of Mali Ston, and stayed with a lovely family.

7/7-7/10 Mali Ston became home for 5 nights while we waiting on prognosis of the van. \240It's a small but interesting town. \240It shares one of the longest defense walls in N. Europe with the town of Ston. \240 In 1333 the wall was completed and was built to protect the Republic of Dubrovnik, more recently the walls were used to protect the salt pans in the 19th century. \240You can walk the walls and catch some sweet views. We were fortunate to spend a lot of time with the family who hosted us. \240They shared homemade wine most nights, sweet treats, stories about life in Croatia, Danso got a crash course in beekeeping, our host Dragan also gave us several rides and helped traslate \240You can thank Zwirkel for breaking down, as we wrote most of this journal during our down time.They shared homemade wine most nights, sweet treats, stories about life in Croatia, Danso got a crash course in beekeeping, our host Dragan also gave us several rides and helped translate and negotiate the van repair. Amy got a massage from the physical therapist daughter for her stiff neck. Also.... \240You can blame Zwirkel for breaking down, as we created a lot of this journal during our downtime. Off to Montenegro in the morning to raft Tara canyon 2nd deepest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon.

We left our home for 5 nights excited to be back on the road. \240After crossing into Bosnia and Herzegovina, driving 3 hours to our destination for rafting, we shared that we are both having some vanxiety. \240It wasn’t until we were 10 minutes into Bosnia and Herzegovina that we realized that all the locals drive VW Golfs from the 80s/90s, so we would be in good hands in there was more van trouble. We even considered getting some work done on the van due to the exchange rate.

We spent about a week in Bosnia.  The highlight was a sweet rafting trip on the Tara River which goes through the 2nd longest canyon after the Grand. Fun rapids and good food.