(Liam thrilled to have his pic taken)

(Andrew, Liam, and Ben)

(Whaaaat?)

The plane pushed back at exactly 6:00. \240So far things were going smoothly, a lot better than my four delayed flights to Maui this past summer with awful United. \240In this international flight we were handed “free” eye-masks and ear buds. \240Whoa! \240You aren’t going to charge me $12 for that?

(Stuttgart here we come!)

I haven’t been in an international flight since 2015 so I’ve nearly forgotten the non-United crappy American “service”. \240Oh you’re in an overnight flight from Maui to the mainland? \240Well here’s a rubber sandwich for $15. \240Put your glasses on because you might not be able to see it. \240Ha! \240So far sitting in coach I’ve been offered a Peach Bellini cocktail, a choice of an appetizer, a vegan meal (ordered ahead by James), a choice of red or white wine, and I just might have to get a hot towel. \240My menu tells me to relax, rest, refresh, and recharge. \240I don’t have to worry about lack of food or drink on this flight! \240Yeah baby! \240I’ve also been given an entire 16.9 fluid ounce water bottle all for me. \240No 6-ounce cup filled to the brim with ice and only 3 swallows of water. \240Yippie!

(Traveling in style!)

I asked for white wine with dinner and the attendant poured me an extremely generous glass of wine to go with my seasoned white rice, lentil, beet, and pumpkin seed meal with Caprese salad. \240After that? \240Ben and Jerry’s cookie dough ice cream. \240I can’t keep with my plant-based food lifestyle on this trip. \240I endulged and ate every bite. \240Except for some turbulence, the flight was comfortable and I was able to doze a bit. \240Next stop? \240Stuttgart.

(On approach to Stuttgart)

We arrived and immediately grabbed our bags. \240Liam and I sat and waited while Dan and James got our rental car. \240I looked up and saw that we were sitting directly across from “Discrete”, a store specializing in eroticism and sex. \240Never seen that in an airport before!

(Love in the airport)

We picked up our huge, 9 passenger Mercedes minivan. \240Dan masterfully drove it out of the spiraling tunnel to get us out of the parking garage. \240It felt too big to be allowed. \240We had trouble finding our way at first and ended up driving north instead of south. \240The Garmin finally registered and got us turned back on the right track. \240We whizzed past rolling emerald fields and thick forests. \240The leaves were still changing here. \240It was so nice to see deciduous forests again! \240I miss that. \240Our first stop was a McDonalds to get coffee and use the bathroom. \240It cost 50 cents in euros to use the bathroom. \240I forgot about having to pay to use bathrooms here.

(McDonalds...even the coffee is better)

The landscape flew by with small villages and \240clusters of peaked, red roofed homes with a centrally located church. \240The cars passing us in the left lane zoomed past us at ridiculous speeds. \240I was having trouble staying awake but didn’t want to miss the scenery. As we continued south on A81 we got a breathtaking view of the mountains as we drew closer to Switzerland. \240We drove around Konstanz for quite a while to find parking. \240We can hardly fit anywhere! \240We finally were able to ditch the car and take some time to walk around the beautiful narrow cobblestone streets.

(The gang walking around Konstanz Germany)

(Konstanz Germany)

We strolled around for a while gawking at the shops and trendy eateries. \240The boys were dead on their feet so we stopped briefly for some pretzels.

(motley crew)

(Bakery)

We wandered toward the lake where they were setting up the Christmas market. \240The Glüwein and brats were open but I saw there wasn’t any special mug for this so we decided to keep moving. \240Plenty more opportunities to come for that!

(Christmas town coming soon!)

We kept driving southeast toward Austria. \240The boys were zonked and through my sleep-deprived haze I could catch glimpses of the mountains as we approached Dornbirn. \240Dan and Carole got us rooms at the Four Points at Sheridan. \240They have a timeshare so we are lucky enough to tag along! \240And?? We are in a sweet suite! \240Check out this view! It took me a little while to figure out how to turn the lights on. \240You have to insert your key in a slot card holder. \240Of course! \240What an ingenious way to not lose your card.

(View of Dornbirn Austria)

(Swank features of our room)

We all headed down to the restaurant for dinner at 5 but were told they don’t open until 6 so we decided to venture out to find something to eat. \240The local mall looked promising but most of the food places were already closed. \240We walked about 10 minutes and found a pasta and pizza place. \240It was the first rich food with meat and cheese that I’d had in 4 months. \240It tasted good but I wondered if it would be a bit of a shock to my system. \240The boys each received $55 euros each from grandma and grandpa combined with What Ben and Jerry gave. \240What an awesome and thoufhtful gift!

(The gift of euros)

Afterward we took the boys back to their room and the four adults walked to the Dornbirn Christmas market. \240We walked about 2 miles one-way and then made a beeline for the Glüwein so we could have our first souvenir...a market mug! \240There wasn’t much open other than food and Glüwein but we enjoyed the lights and marveled at the building architecture. \240There was a nice bonfire roaring for people to sit near and relax. \240Sad thing is we could never pull this kind of thing off in America. \240Too many stupid people would find a way to ruin it, manage to set the place on fire, and any alcoholic beverages would be relegated to a “beer garden” only. \240No walking around with hot boozy drink in hand.

(Our Dornbirn Christmas Market mugs)

(Cool building)

(One of the only craft vendors still open.

(Dormbirn buildings)

We didn’t stay too long but we all agreed we needed the walk. \240Tomorrow is an early morning so it’s time to hit the sheets. \240

(Hohenschwangau Castle)

(Hohenschwangau Castle)

(Hohenschwangau Castle)

We were headed like cattle through the rooms of the castle while an audio player educated us on the castle history and our tour guide shuffled us through each room. \240I wished we had a bit more time to absorb the details of the decor and architecture, \240afterward we had about an hour to hit some gift shops and walk our goodies back to the car before our tour of Neuschwanstein. \240I marveled at the picturesque town.

We stopped to use the water closet. \240Unfortunately you do have to pay to use the bathroom in many public places. \240While I was in there I saw a sign explaining how to use the toilet. \240See? \240No squatty in the potty.

It seems Americans aren’t the only ones that don’t know how to do simple things when they travel abroad. \240Some Asians need a little help with western toilets. \240It made me giggle but also made me feel better for not figuring out how to turn on the shower this morning.

We walked about a mile uphill to get to the castle. \240There were stocky horses pulling carriages full of people. \240I guess you could pay to have the horses carry your sorry rear up the hill. \240We got to the top and were treated to a breathtaking view of the valley below, a lake and the nearby snowy peaks of the Bavarian alps.

(valley below Neuschwanstein Castle)

(Neuschwanstein Castle)

(Neuschwanstein Castle)

Our tour began promptly at 12:10. \240We went through the turn style and took an audio device. \240This castle was build in the mid 1800s because King Ludwig II wanted a dream castle reminiscent of the Middle Ages. \240he wanted a place where he could escape from reality. \240He was later deemed unworthy of the throne due to insanity, was arrested in his bed chamber and was later found dead in another dwelling. \240No one knows how he died. \240I’m wondering if he was actually a normal guy who was politically misaligned with someone else’s agenda, so they got him dethroned and eventually murdered him. \240However to built a castle and pretend to live in the Middle Ages when it was 1885 is pretty bazaar. Time to read up on Bavarian King Louise II. \240Again I felt like I wanted more time. \240There was so much detail to this castle. \240Rich textiles, painted murals, gold gilded walls, lavish wood carved furniture, and luxurious table centerpieces that were gifts from other regions.

After our tour we were all feeling pretty hungry. \240The restaurant closest to the castle was closed so we stopped at the first bratwurst place we found. \240I ate a huge sausage with ketchup and mustard. \240It was okay but man does it feel weird to eat meat again. \240 I kind of miss my vegetables.

We piled back in the van again to drive to our next hotel, Alpenland Sporthotel in St Johann Austria. \240We had at least a couple hours drive. \240James did the afternoon driving and I think he was excited to drive over 90 miles per hour on the Autobahn. \240Some BMW screamed passed us easily pushing 130 mph. \240Yikes!

I was having trouble keeping my eyes open the entire afternoon. \240We rolled in at the hotel by 18:00 and checked in. \240This hotel is much more rustic than the posh, modern luxury we had last night. \240It’s more like a ski hotel. \240We tried to eat at the restaurant but we would have to purchase a package meal plan to eat there which we weren’t willing to do. \240Their other restaurant served Italian and we had that last night so Dan asked the concierge to recommend some Austrian fare. \240It was a short walk from the hotel and it was well worth it! \240We enjoyed house beer, a meat cuts appetizer, and almost all of us had the wienerschnitzel. \240It was really good! \240I would have preferred picked red cabbage with it, but maybe that isn’t something that is done in this area. \240Our very friendly waiter enticed us to try the local eis (ice cream). \240It was excellent. \240James had the pumpkin one which sort of tasted like green tea ice cream, but maybe just because it was green. \240It was really good! \240I feel Ike I’ve already put on 10 pounds the food is so heavy compared to what Ive been eating. \240Don’t these people eat any vegetables?? \240I’m sure they do, but tonight I just had meat and potatoes.

(The gang enjoying dinner)

(A mural at the restaurant)

We got back to the hotel and checked out the gym and the pool. \240James and Ben played table tennis and I decided to soak my aching back in the hot tub. \240It was all due to close in 10 minutes, but it was enough time to soak. \240

Tomorrow we have a lazy day at the hotel and get to wander the shops and the town. \240I’m looking forward to the Christmas market and I can’t wait to see the view here in the morning! \240It’s exciting to arrive someplace at night and then you get a surprise in the morning when you look out the window!

(The view from our room)

We joined Dan and walked to the Spar grocery store. \240James found a cheap coffee maker and we decided to buy it. \240It would be a lot cheaper spending 30 euros for the machine rather than have to buy coffee every day because our room don’t have a coffee maker or a way to heat water. \240I was half asleep but it was really neat to see so many different types of food. \240The organic food is labeled as “bio”. \240I was thrilled to find coffee pods that are compatible with our Senseo machine at home. \240My only option for those is to order them off of Amazon because it is a European coffee system. \240I’m planning on going back to the store and buying the lot! \240I picked up some pastries, fruit, and some juice. \240I made the mistake of leaving too much of a gap between some of my food items at the check out counter so when I went to pay I didn’t realize there were still items that didn’t go through the checkout after James paid. \240The cashier was a bit peeved at me and I felt bad. \240After all I’m just a stupid, fat American. \240Sigh. \240Oh well. \240We got our food and headed back to the room. \240Ah coffee! \240We set up the machine in the bathroom. \240James, Dan, and I stood in the bathroom staring at the machine as if we were waiting for an IV coffee injection. \240We sat and enjoyed coffee and munched on rolls and pastries. \240Mine had some kind of sweet cheese inside and it tasted amazing with the raspberry jam we bought.

(Morning sun warming St Johann)

(Coffee machine set up in the bathroom!)

We took today to relax and stay put. \240Liam and I decided to use the fitness center. \240I jogged on the treadmill because I now have pretzels for a rear end and brat hips. \240It was noon by the time Carole came down to see what I was up to. \240The boys had decided to enjoy the pool so the adults ventured out to check out the shops. \240The Christmas market does not start until Thursday so we wandered around some of the local stores. \240Nearly all of them were closed from noon until two. \240Holy cats! \240A two hour lunch break! \240Dozens of kids were running around town on their own during their lunch break. \240You mean businesses here actually allow their employees a significant break during the day? \240Gosh we can barely allow for a half hour and most companies won’t even pay for it. \240I enjoyed walking up steps leading up the steep hillside. \240There are walking paths to restaurants and even a museum. \240By the looks of it people can just go out there door and ski down to the valley and then grab the chair lift back up.

(Cathedral in St Johann)

(View of the valley of St Johann)

(James and Carole hoofing it through the woods)

(St Johann)

Since nearly all of the shops were still closed for lunch we to the grocery store to pick up food for lunch. \240I picked up some veggies, grain bread, wine, and had fun choosing different types of biscuits and chocolates. \240We feasted on our grub and sipped on wine. \240We opened a bottle of schnapps and were very surprised to find that it wasn’t sweet like syrup.

After we ate we left the boys to their devices and hit the shops that were closed earlier. \240I bought two pairs of shoes. \240Carole and I enjoyed trying on boots and were surprised when we were offered a shoe horn. \240Afterward we went in a small watch shop and then went in to a classy Austrian clothing store. \240The liederhosen were amazing soft leather. \240Very expensive clothes but the quality was unlike any I have ever seen. \240Just beautiful!

We were still full from our late lunch so we decided to get the boys wok take-out. \240We went back to the rooms to relax and pick on our snacks. \240The boys were settled in gaming again so the adults hit the hot tub. \240Tomorrow we get to explore Salzburg!

(Beautiful scenery on the way to Salzburg)

We wizzed past rivers. Rugged hills, Rocky snow-capped precipices and green valleys. \240We were glad that it wasn’t raining, the temperature wasn’t \240unbearably cold, and we could still see some of the mountains.

We arrived in Salzburg and it took us quite a while to find parking that was close enough to where we were going to visit and had enough space where we could fit. \240

(Picture from the car while looking for parking)

James and Dan did a great job negotiating the city streets to find us a parking spot. \240We walked toward the area where the Mozart museum is located. \240We walked through beautiful Mirabell garden and the statues looked somewhat familiar. \240I later found out it was the filming location for the Sound of Music scene for Doe Re Me.

(View across the river in Salzburg)

(Love lock bridge)

(The gang at the entrance to Mirabell Garden, a film site for Sound of Music)

(Miranell garden)

We found a small Christmas market and grabbed some brats as none of us had breakfast. \240The sauerkraut was delicious! \240

(I am missing my vegetables!!!)

We looked around ar the market and Liam decided to buy a pair of really nice woolen house shoes. \240I saw several things that I liked but was undecided on what to get. \240I’m looking for something nice for our families back at home. \240It’s really great to see all of the market setups and their wares. \240I’m particular to the wooden ornaments and rustic Christmas decor.

With bellies full and happy we entered the Mozart museum. \240The museum had listening devices which I really liked. \240I find it much easier to use those instead of constantly reading sign or straining to see and listen to a tour guide. \240The museum was a wonderful account of Leopold Mozart’s life. \240Most people have only heard of Wolfgang Mozart, Leo’s son. \240Leopold had an amazing life. \240He was a gifted composer, violinist, teacher, musician, was well educated, and traveled all over Europe which was no easy feat back then.

(Entrance to Leo’s museum)

It is said Leopold had a happy marriage for 30 years. \240He and his wife took young Wolfgang and his sister all over Europe. \240Wolfie’s sister was also a musical prodigy. \240It was amazing to see the dancing room where I imagined women and men dressed in their 1700s attire gaily dancing around the room. \240Mozart’s fortepiano was the focal point at the far end of the room. \240I just wanted to touch it but it was all sealed off because of people like me. \240After doing the tour we left to find another Christmas market. \240Why? \240Because we are collecting Gluwein mugs. \240You can get a different one at each market you go to. \240Bottom’s up!. \240You can walk all over the market with it or stand at a table to drink it. \240Liam likes it so I’m sharing sips with him. \240Again I saw so many neat things that I wasn’t sure what to buy so I ended only getting the Gluwein. \240James found a really nice sweater jacket as his keepsake for the trip. \240I don’t want to buy my treats and candies at a market because those are cheaper to get at a local grocery. \240We enjoyed the market for quite a while before starting out to find Wolfie’s birthplace. \240

(Christmas market Salzburg)

(Christmas market Salzburg)

(Christmas market Salzburg)

We walked down the narrow corridors and picturesque shops until we found the building where Wolfgang Mozart was born. \240

(Walking through the alleyway in Salzburg)

(Beautiful church in Salzburg)

We went inside the unassuming building where the boy prodigy genius was born. \240The Mozart’s lived on the top floor of this building for over 25 years. \240For an apartment it was seriously huge, though not as large as the “apartment” where the Leopold Mozart museum is. \240We walked through the self-guided tour. \240It was fascinating to see sheet music engraved by Mozart’s own hand. \240It was also amazing to see locks of his hair, dress buttons from an overcoat, and his ring. \240Am I part of the Wolfie and Leo fan club? \240Did I swoon? \240The museum had two of his violins as well. \240James and I liked reading the letters between Mozart and his wife. \240We found them quite humorous. \240At one point Mozart tells her that he misses his wife so much and talking to her portrait isn’t good enough. \240He says things like, “I take out your portrait and say pussy pussy!” \240Adult Wolfie preferred Vienna to Salzburg. \240I guess everyone feel like they want to leave where they grew up. \240He was financially successful but didn’t know how to handle his money. \240I’m wondering if growing up in a fairly wealthy home, traveling all over Europe made him feel privileged. \240When Leo died I’m guessing Wolfie didn’t understand how to handle money. \240Too bad he didn’t hand everything over to his wife because she was quite the business woman!

After that we found our way back to the main shopping street and found Mozart’s Cafe for dinner. \240The food was good and we enjoyed our time there. \240I nearly ate all of James’ red cabbage. \240It was already growing dark after dinner so we filled up the van and made the drive back to St Johann. \240A few minutes from town we stopped at a Hofner grocery store. \240Yay! \240Fun! \240I filled the cart with treats and chocolate. \240The cashier probably thought we were nuts but we can’t get really good chocolate for the price we can get it here. \240We had fun looking at all of the food options, chocolate, and discount items they had in bins. \240They had clothes, shoes, and even small appliances. \240It reminded me a little bit of a Pound Stretcher in England. \240Is there such thing as a Euro Stretcher? \240Between my coffee pods, chocolate, shoes, and cookies, my souvenir bag is nearly full!

We arrived back at the hotel and spread out all of our food. \240We poured drinks and spent all evening grazing. \240I must have eaten a bucket of sweets. \240It’s been several days since I’ve seen vegetables so I fed myself lettuce by the handfull. \240Not sure if the weather will hold out tomorrow but we are planning a hike to a small museum. \240I’m sure we’ll get eyerolls from the boys, but it will be good for all of us.

(Ben giving Leo a hug)

(Carole and Leo)

(Its a hot sale!)

(Da boyz shopping at the market)

(Walking through St Johann)

We picked up a walking path and crossed over the river. \240The scenery was lovely. \240I love the architecture here. \240These houses are Huge! \240I’m not sure if this is a weathy area or not, but it seems like the people of this town are a people of means. \240All of the houses seem 5 times as large as what we all live in.

(Walking path toward the village of St Veit im Pongau)

(I’ll take this one James!)

(Beautiful scenery on the way to St Veit)

(James, Ben, Liam, and Carole)

The walking path lead us off of the paved part and we began climbing up hill switchbacking through the forest. \240It was major stair-stepping as we climbed higher and higher. \240The smell of manure was ripe in the air as it seems the farmers spray their fields with it. \240It hung heavy in the damp chill, clinging to our coats and our noses.

(Climbing higher and higher)

(The view on the way up to St Veit)

We stopped on a little plateau near a drinking water spigot and a friendly Austrian cat came over to us to get some affection. \240The cat showed no fear of us and in no time was rolling over on his back to get a belly rub. \240I wanted to put him in my coat and take him home. \240

(Rural farms near St Veit)

We walked on past more luscious green steep fields. \240There are these tiny wooden sheds that look like they are precariously hanging off of the side of the hill. \240At first we thought maybe they are camping shelters for hikers in the summer to camp hut to hut, but then we were wondering if instead they are storage sheds for hay and feed. \240

The trail flattened out and we could see St Johann in the distant valley below. \240James brought us to the Seelacken museum but unfortunately they are closed for the season. \240It was still nice to see some of the old buildings from the outside. \240I’ll have to try to do a little reasearch on it as we couldn’t read too much of the German on the placards.

(Seelacken museum)

(Ben as a fly caught in a web!)

(Seelacken museum)

We were all feeling a bit chilled and were longing for a hot drink or soup instead of eating our cold sandwiches out in the chilly air. \240We saw a huge building perched up on a knoll and decided to take a path up toward it. \240Lo and behold we found a cafe! \240We went inside and a waitress gave us a menu. \240She was ready to take our order within just a few minutes, but we had to sit with the menu for a little bit to decipher it enough to get the gist of what we wanted to eat. \240I had a nice soup that tasted like chicken broth and had fritter in it. \240It looked like pancake cut into strips and it was hot and tasted quite nice. \240I looked around and saw people dressed in what appeared to be medical scrubs of some kind. \240A sign in the cafe was readable for us to understand that we were actually eating in the cafe of a psychiatric hospital. \240Oh great! \240Maybe my family would leave me here! \240I’m glad we stopped there though because we didn’t have to take any time aimlessly walking around and we were all happy to sit in the warmth for a little while. \240

After our lunch we were ready to venture out again. \240We decided to take a short walk around St Veit village before walking back to our hotel. \240We came acros a lovely chapel and walked through the graveyard. \240There were candles lit on some of the gravesites. \240Everything looked so neat and perfect. \240

(St Veit chapel)

(Gravesites at St Veit chapel)

(Church gates at St Veit chapel)

(Gravesites at St Veit chapel)

We we were finished walking around the church, we found Ben and Liam sitting at a bench. \240Liam had a grey tabby cat in his lap! \240The cat was purring and warming its feet on Liam’s legs. \240I wanted to take him home too! \240I think I really need to get a cat. \240I miss having animals. \240

(A new friend for Ben and Liam)

We decided to walk back to the hotel a different way than we had come. \240The way that we had come was extremely steep so we were hoping to find a more gentle way back down to the valley. \240I’m very glad we did because it gave us a different perspective of the town and we got to see different scenery. \240Once we descended back to the river we were on a flat gravel path leading along the river. \240I bet it is wonderful Nordic skiiing here!!! \240We found a sign showing symbols of cross country skiing and skate style skiiing. \240On we walked and we found an outdoor gym. \240The equipment was really neat. \240The machines were very similar to weight machines in typical gyms but they are made so that instead of using a pin to choose the weight increments you use your own body weight as resistance. \240We had fun there for a few minutes!

(The walk back to St Johann along the river)

(Working out at the gym!)

We made it back to the outskirts of St Johann and James lead us up a walking path that lead up the hillside above the town. \240We were treated to a wonderful view of the Alps with a weak sunshine lightening them up. \240

(Riding a giant ant)

(The view from the walking path back to our hotel)

We got back to our hotel and we were all grateful to be inside and back in the warmth. \240I immediately made myself a hot cup of coffee and snacked on wafer chocolates as a pick-me-up. \240Liam is interested in trying to buy a jacket or something that he can wear to school and even snowboard in on warmer days. \240He wants something that is classy and not something that we can get back at home. \240So far he has found something he liked, but it was Norwegian, and since we haven’t been to Norway, he chose not to get it. \240Another jacket he liked was out of his price range. \240I think we need to find some tourist shops so long as they sell nice things and not cheap Chinese-made junk. \240We will be visiting more Christmas Markets and I’m sure there will be more shopping to come! \240We keep seeing these devil-looking creatures with goat horns, yellow eyes, and a red face. \240He is in a lot of the shops and seems to be hanging out next to St Nick. \240I later found out it is an Austrian tradition that goes back to the Middle Ages. \240“Krampus” carries a stick and a bag with him. \240If you are a good boy or girl St Niklaus will bring you something nice. \240If you are naughty Krampus will shive you in a sack and take you away!

We decided on a Chinese food place for dinner. \240Our waitress spoke impeccable English. \240I tried to stay vegetarian tonight but it was a pour choice. \240I ordered fried noodles with vegetables. \240It was very heavy and oily with only a sparse mushroom or two. \240I did manage to find a piece of cabbage though. \240It was disappointing. \240The rest of the dishes that were ordered were fantastic. \240James had crispy duck and some sort of beef dish. \240He shared his beef dish with me and it was wonderful. \240So much for trying to get some vegetables in me. \240My vegetarian spring rolls were a delicious fried flat thing but had only a suggestion of cabbage. \240I’ve been eating meat and dairy all week. \240It is unavoidable so I’m just enjoying it. \240

Tomorrow it’s back to Salzburg for another Christmas market and a Christmas concert at the Hohensalzburg fortress! \240

(Krampus)

(A relaxing morning wearing new slippers)

We left the hotel around 10:30 or so and made the drive up to Salzburg. \240First stop was Harley Davidson Salzburg. \240We arrived around 11:30 or so and Dan looked up their store hours prior to our arrival. \240They close for lunch at noon, so we were annoyed to find out they were already closed...before noon. \240Sigh.

We parked in the same spot as the other day. \240We headed down the street and James decided he wanted to check out one of the quant, narrow cobble stoned alleyways to see what shops were on the other side. \240The alley opened up and we found a brat stand. \240I didn’t really want a brat but I was hungry. \240My order consisted of 2 white sausages, a dab of mustard, and a half stale kaiser roll. \240So far this place had the worst wurst. \240It was rubbery. \240I don’t like things that go “pop squish” in your mouth. \240James was kind enough to trade with me. \240His was a red sausage that was much more palatable for me. It had just started to rain and we were huddled beneath the standup table under their umbrella. \240With satisfied bellies we headed off to another Christmas Market. \240James and I stopped at a stand because he was curious about the bread they were selling. \240It was a slice of bread with some sort of spread on it and nuts. \240We ordered one of those and 2 Gluwein. \240We paid to keep one of the mugs and planned on returning the second one. \240The clerk must have thorough I was a ding bat because when I went to return the mug I was expecting a deposit back. \240Some stands will charge you extra if you want to keep the mug and some stands seem to charge you as if you are going to keep it and will return the fee for the mug if you bring it back to them. \240The clerk tried to explain to me in German that he did not charge me for the mug so no deposit change would be returned to me. \240Even when he switched to English I was still baffled. \240Sometimes I really wish God had given me at least half of a brain. \240Sigh.

(the boys on the play equipment next to our parking stall)

(Salzburg Christmas Market)

We meandered around the Christmas Market. \240Dan found us another Gluwein stand and so far that is my favorite mug! \240It is a nice deep blue, tall and narrow, and has “Salzburg Christmas Market” printed on it. \240I bought a few things that I thought would look nice in our home. \240It is difficult to think what to buy because sometimes it is much cheaper to buy the same stuff at local grocery stores, but you never really know what they will have. \240We will be going to more markets in the coming days. \240

(View of Hohensalzburg Fortress from the Christmas Market)

(Salzburg Christmas Market)

The weather was damp and chilly with stop and go drizzle. \240I was glad I had remembered to bring my umbrella. \240Dan wanted to make sure we were on check to pick up our tickets for the concert we were scheduled to attend tonight at the fortress. \240We walked up a steep flight of steps and then up, up, and up on a path leading high above the city and up to the fortress entrance. \240Dan was told we needed to get our tickets down below where we just were. \240I was glad we climbed up to the fortress because I was able to take some pictures during the daylight because I knew I wouldn’t get any good pictures at night when we came back for the concert. \240

(Narrow streets on the way up to the fortress)

(View of the city from Hohensalzburg fortress)

(View of the city from Hohensalzburg fortress)

(Hohensalzburg fortress)

(Hohensalzburg fortress)

We descended back down the hill into town and started walking toward the Maerklin train store. \240Our progress was slow because we were window shopping and stopping periodically so that Liam could go into clothing stores to look for a jacket that he wanted. \240We went into a shop called “Northland” and it looked like they had some very nice, well made clothing. \240Liam found a stylish sweatshirt that he decided to buy. \240I’m not sure it was exactly what he was looking for, but he liked it all the same. \240Carole found a nice sweater jacket and I bought a nice red sweater jacket the looks very Bavarian. \240That store made away with half our wallets! \240Shopping done, we hoofed it off to the Maerklin Train store. \240James was enthralled with the many displays of trains. \240There was a lot to look at and I am amazed by their fine detail. \240Maerklin is very expensive and he couldn’t decide so he didn’t end up getting any. \240

(James and his train. \240Maerklin or bust)

Once we finished at the train store it was time to find a place for dinner. \240We settled on an Indian food restaurant but when we got there they were still closed for the late afternoon and not scheduled to open until 17:30. \240We knew we couldn’t wait that long so we decided to try to find a place on the way to the fortress. \240We went to an Italian restaurant. \240I think we were all very ready to sit down after walking the town all day. \240The heavy Canon camera was bothering my back and I was glad to get the load off my feet. \240I ordered a mixed green salad that was wonderful. The balsamic vinegar dressing was delicious. \240James, Andrew, and I all ordered the chicken tumeric risotto dish. \240Andrew liked it, but James and I found the chicken tough and the rest of it extremely bland and unfortunately not very satisfying at all. \240Oh well. \240No every meal is fantastic. \240Dinner done, we started out toward the ticket office next to the funicular train. \240We picked up our tickets and boarded the parallelogram-shaped train. \240The train car was cabled pulled up the steep tracks that appeared to be roughly 80 degrees. \240It was a very short ride up the slope and we were already debarking. \240

(The boys on the funicular train car)

We found our way into the concert area. \240It looked like it was going to be a very intimate venue. \240The walls appeared to be made of plaster and the ceiling was made up of alcoves and arches. \240There were chairs lined up on three sides of a small center platform which was set up to house musicians. \240We were early so we had time to walk about the fortress before the concert was set to begin. \240

(Concert venue in Hohensalzburg fortress)

The view of the city lights below was a beautiful site. \240The fortress certainly had a commanding view of the entire city. \240I’m going to have to do some research on the history of this city to learn more about the fortress. \240We did not do a tour of it today.

We went back to our seats and waited for the concert to begin. \240I was feeling warm and sleepy from food and wine so I already knew I’d have trouble keeping my eyes open. \240The concert was to be two Mozart pieces, one by Bach, followed by a short intermission and then Vivaldi and some Austrian folk songs.

(Hohensalzburg fortress at night)

The music was really nice although I was starting to dream of my bed. \240After the intermission the program said the first piece would be Vivaldi and the second, folk songs from Austria. \240The musicians came out and began playing what was clearly folk songs with a characteristic oom-pa 3/4 time beat. \240The stopped playing, everyone clapped and then they played a very short piece. \240We noticed everyone putting on their coats to leave...umm...is it over? \240I kind of thought we would hear a slow, melodic harp piece. \240We took the funicular back down the hill and made the walk back to the car. \240The chill evening air woke me up a bit so that I could sit in the front passenger seat and at least try to help navigate. \240We were feeling like we had had a lack of sweets today so we got back and stuffed our faces with sweet cookie wafers. \240They are so delicious that I am getting wafer wattle! \240It is going to be a shock to return to a plant-based diet with minimal sugar! \240We are looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow and then heading out to get the boys to a mountain coaster and Christmas Market. \240

(Walking back to the van after the concert)

(Gorgeous kinder clothes in a shop windew)

(Relaxing breakfast in the room)

James thought maybe the boys would enjoy a mountain coaster that he found located near the village of Zell am See. \240The website suggested that it was open all year long and it was only a 45 minute drive from here. \240We all wanted an easy day today and were hoping to get back to the hotel early enough to pack up, enjoy a leasurely dinner, visit the Christmas Market in St Johann and get to bed early. \240Saturday we need to leave St Johann by 7 due to a long, 8 hour drive to our next destination. \240James checked the weather for today and it looked like we might be okay doing the coaster in the morning before rain might set in beginning in early afternoon. \240We finished off the last of our morning coffee and walked to the Spar grocery store so that the boys could pick out a pastry for breakfast. \240I chose a puffed pastry that looked interesting. \240We started the drive to Kitzsteinhorn. \240Carole and I enjoyed polishing off the puffed pastries and a jelly filled donut. \240The puffed pastry was really good. \240Nice and crispy on the outside, soft and doughy on the inside and tasted like pretzel dough. \240I swear I’ve put on 10 pounds already with all of the meat, bread, and sweets I’ve been eating. \240

(The drive heading toward Kitzsteinhorn)

The road twisted and turned through a rugged valley with extremely steep earthy walls, rolling green hills and snow-capped mountains in the distance. \240The mist hung above the trees like a blanket and the sun threatened to poke through the low-lying clouds. \240We arrived at the Kitzsteinhorn and found the parking area for the mountain coaster. \240The gentleman working the parking lot area spoke in rapid German. \240All we could decipher was “No not today, not until tomorrow”. \240We all felt disappointment, but parked the car anyway. \240James went to find the ticket office to inquire about riding the mountain coaster and if that was closed, what else we might do in the area. \240We saw one person coming down the sled of the coaster but nobody else. \240Was it closed for maintenance? \240Is it only open on weekends? \240We waited in the car for a while for James to get back. \240I could see the nearby mountains. \240They held their breath in anticipation of the busy ski season about to be unleashed. \240This was a calm before the frenzy and it appeared we had the whole place to ourselves. \240

(Waiting to ride the mountain coaster)

James came walking across the parking lot with what appeared to be a brochure of some sort. \240Oh no. \240Looked like this is closed and he is about to tell us about another attraction. \240He grinned and told us that the coaster was indeed open and that he bought all of us 3 rides! \240Since there was no one else there we did not have to wait on line at all. \240The weather was chilly, but not overly cold and it was not raining. \240Perfect! \240Each person had their own sled. \240You sit in the seat, put the seat belt on and hope for the best. \240There are two lever arms on either side of the sled. \240If you push them forward you will speed up, but if you wish to slow down, just pull them back. \240

(Beginning the ascent on the coaster)

(Getting a ride up the mountain in my coaster sled)

(Up, up, and away!)

The sled slowly climbed the track as I sat there in frightened anticipation. \240What happened if I don’t break properly? \240What happened if it flies off of the track? \240Ahhh! \240I was nervous but also really excited. \240My sled was still climbing and I could see Liam with a big smile on his face as he zoomed down the track spiraling down toward the bottom. \240All too soon it was my turn and the sled stopped at the top. \240What now? \240I pushed the break lever forward and it began to go over the apex and down I went! \240I was very timid and used the break lever quite a bit. \240It was a blast! \240I flew down cork-screw spiraling, over undulating track and dove beneath the coaster structure itself. \240When I reached the bottom I was really glad we all had 2 more runs to do. \240Next time I wasn’t going to be so heavy with the break!

(Mountain coaster fun!!)

(The view from the coaster)

(Coaster track)

(Happy boy James)

(Big kid Dan)

We road the coaster two more times and on the last one, most of us allowed the sled to open up fully and didn’t break until the end. \240We all realize that for the most part you can completely ignore the break level and still be totally safe. \240You must break though if you get too close to the person in front of you. \240The coaster also slows mechanically in places where it needs to. \240This was a lot of fun and we were all so glad we got to do it!

After the coaster we found a place to park in the village of Zell am See and began to walk toward the lake and the main part of town to find a restaurant, take pictures of the lake, and hit the Christmas markets. \240We chose a restaurant that served local Austrian food and a variety of other items. \240Me, James, and Carole ordered something that said it came with bacon and cheese. \240Liam ordered some sort of spinach dumpling, Dan had the fish special, Andrew got fried rice, and Ben had the burger. \240When mine came out I was very surprised that it looked like a white pizza on flat bread. \240Liam’s was a bread, spinach dumpling. \240The food was delicious. \240We all enjoyed our meals very much. \240

(Lunch at the village of Zell am See)

(Austrian spinach dumplings)

After lunch we strolled along the lake to take pictures. \240There was a small Christmas market down there and Liam tried a sample of pepperoncini and pickles. \240I don’t think he liked them enough to buy them but I decided to buy a small jar of their pesto. \240We got Gluwein of course and added to our mug collection. \240

(Zell am See village)

(Zell am See village)

(Enjoying Gluwein at the Christmas Market)

(Small Christmas Market at Zell am See)

(Shopping is always the answer for stupid, fat Americans like us!)

(Strolling along the lake at Zell am See)

It had started to rain and the sky had darkened. \240We walked through another small market as we made our way back to the car. \240I loved hearing the rain on my umbrella and enjoyed being bundled up in my coat feeling cozy and warm.

(Walking back to the car)

(Zell am See in the rain)

It felt a lot later in the day than it really was, but we were all ready to get back to the hotel, visit the Christmas Market at St Johann and start packing up our things. \240I was warm and sleepy and couldn’t seem to keep my eyes open. \240the next think I knew we were pulling into the hotel parking garage. \240

We took some time to start packing up. \240I am already completely overwhelmed by the amount of new things we have acquired! \240All these Gluwein mugs!! Where to put them? \240I also have an entire back full of goodies for our families. \240It seems we may be leaving with twice the amount of things that originally came with! \240

We walked through the St Johann christmas Market and hit the Gluwein stand first thing. \240This market actually had some different food items for sale and some unique wares. \240I particularly like the hand carved Eidleweiss flower but didn’t have a euro bill small enough to purchase it and I was also worried about how I would get it home without breaking it. \240The market wasn’t too big and the boys were getting hungry so we decided to make our way to the restaurant where we had eaten on our first night here in St Johann. \240We were just about to leave when all of the sudden a huge ferocious beast with a large hairy body, a red face, pointed teeth, a big ugly tongue and huge horns came walking down the street toward the market! \240It was Krampus!! \240He came over to shake our hands and I really wanted to touch his teeth! \240He took a keen interest in Ben and he hit me with his switch. \240Better watch out and be good! \240Krampus will shove you in a sack and drag you off to the underworld! \240We were thrilled with this encounter as we have been discussing Krampus quite a bit over the past few days. \240

(Christmas market entrance)

We settled in at the restaurant and the animated waiter who waited on us the other night served us again. \240This time I ordered the cheese spaetzel and it was fabulous! \240We all had a good meal again and then enjoyed some icecream. \240Afterward I felt like to was going to have to roll back to the hotel.

(Cheese spaetzel, salad, and beer)

Back at the hotel I finished packing the remainder of my things. \240Tomorrow is a 6am wake-up and a 7am departure. \240We plan to stop at a Christmas market on the way to our next lodging tomorrow so that we can stretch our legs. \240Our next destination is just south of Cologne Germany so we have a long day in the car!

(Leaving St Johann)

We were soon out of the mountains and the landscape changed to rolling green fields and woods. \240The houses were no longer Bavarian style but consisted of white plaster siding with steeply pitched red tiled roofs. \240

Traffic became a bit congested the closer we got to the city of Nurnberg. \240We found a place to park and began walking toward the Christmas Market. \240The market scene was packed with Saturday shoppers and we found it easy to get separated and difficult to even get up to some of the huts. \240There were some very different items at this market compared to what we’ve been seeing. \240

(Walking to the Nurnberg Christmas Market).

(Walking to the Nurnberg Christmas market)

We were all feeling peckish so got on line for a brat stand. \240I didn’t really want sausage again so James and I decided to walk around a bit to find something we hadn’t tried yet. \240We settled on a crepe place. \240I ordered a ham and cheese crepe. \240It was really delicious! \240We also got one filled with apple purée and sugar. \240

(Watching our crepes being made)

We got our Nurnberg Gluwein mugs and took about 45 minutes to walk around the market. Dan bought us all giant marshmallow “bombs”. \240They are giant chocolate covered marshmallows with a waffle cookie on the bottom. \240They were the size of my fist! \240I couldn’t get through a whole one before hitting a sugar wall. \240

(Nurnberg)

We didn’t really have much time to really look at things but I found one hut that had small German buildings meant to put a tea light in so that the windows can light up. \240We bought one and then it was time to walk back to the car.

(Christmas market)

We settled in the car and got ready for the long afternoon drive. \240About a half hour in I noticed it seemed like we were driving back in exactly the same way we had come in from St Johann. \240I looked at my gps map and it confirmed that we were heading southeast instead of northwest. \240We had the wrong destination plugged into the car Garmin and now we would arrive to our hotel \240a good 45 minutes later that we had planned. \240We turned around and made the drive back up toward Nurnberg. \240As we zoomed along at nearly 100mph Carole and I relaxed ourselves by listening to some Kenji Kawai music. \240The land flattened out and was much more reminiscent of the Midwest but will more pine trees and thicker woods. \240I’m a bit surprised by the vast open fields here, the amount of wind generation and solar.

On and on we drove across southern Germany. \240My eyelids grew heavy and I nodded off to sleep. \240The rolling hills gave way to flat lands with thick forests. \240We stopped at a gas station near Frankfurt to use the water closet. \24070 cents to use the bathroom along the autobahn. \240Carole told me to watch the toilet after I’d used it to get some entertainment for the day. \240After flushing a cubical arm was released from the back of the toilet. \240It settled itself in the sitting rim and suddenly the toilet rim began rotating to be cleaned! \240It put a smile on my face. \240I thought maybe this was something my father-in-law would like to see how it works!

We arrived at our condo units around 7 pm. \240It was below freezing and quite foggy when we got in. \240After checking into our respective units we ventured out into the cold to find a place to eat. \240The concierge suggested a brew house just down the road but she told us their kitchen closes by 8. \240We found the brew house and began to climb the steps toward the door. \240We were immediately “greeted” with “No! No! No! No!” \240 The woman at the restaurant was shaking her head at us and seemed to be yelling at us to leave. \240I realize we were there about 40 minutes before their kitchen closed for the night, but she could have politely told us that they were already closing down the kitchen for the night. \240She was not the only rude person we came across on this trip. \240Today in Nurnberg James was using his phone to take videography of the surrounding sites and a man in the car next to us just glared at us and wouldn’t stop staring. \240Apparently James and Dan glared right back. \240I like traveling abroad but you have to just accept that there will be folks that either can’t stand dealing with foreigners at all or hate Americans. \240You let them be rude and then you just have to be like a duck and let it just wash right over you like ice cold water. \240We have also had our share of very friendly and helpful people. \240I’d say it’s been about 50/50. \240It’s true that we make a lot of mistakes. \240That is just part of traveling and experiencing a different country or simply being in unfamiliar places. \240Today Liam accidentally dribbled hot chocoate on his sweater and someone laughed at him. \240I told him to expect to do something stupid everyday and just be okay with it. \240Let it go. \240After the rude woman at the brewhouse quite literally shoed us away like vagabonds we tried another hotel restaurant down the street. \240They could only seat 4 of us, so they recommended another restaurant for us. \240The third one was a charm because they seated us and we had excellent food. \240I got some sort of breaded port with a mustard sauce. \240We deciphered the menu enough to know basically what we had ordered but the sauces for the most part were a mystery. \240The Hollondaise sauce on Liam’s chicken was amazing and I didn’t even think I liked Hollondaise. \240With full stomachs, we drove back to the condo and got settled in for the night. \240I’m not sure what we will be doing yet tomorrow, but hopefully the weather will hold off.

(The small grocery that we went to this morning)

We filled up our shoppping cart with things like sausage, sauerkraut, break, potatoes, lunch meat, cheese, and locally grown apples. \240We carted our bags to the car and drove back the winding road to Schleiden. \240We spent a leisurely meal time making hot sandwiches and tomatoe soup. \240The tomatoe soup we found was a powdered soup in a Knorr packet and it was delicious. Why do all of our Knorr products taste like nothing but salt? \240The apple, called Elstar, were fresh and tasty. \240I put some saurkraut and mustard on our sandwich and fried it up in a pan. \240It was a very enjoyable lunch.

(The Gemünder Ferienpark apartments where we are staying)

The plan for this afternoon is to make the 15 km drive to see the village of Kommern. \240Kommern boasts one of the most picturesque half timber buildings in the Rhine area, so I think we will take a walk there today and enjoy the open museaum that it has to offer.

After lunch we decided to take a ride out to Kommern for the afternoon. \240When we got close to the parking lot we noticed dozens and dozens of cars. \240There were gobs of people walking away from their parked cars. \240It looked like the historic timber building village of Kommern was having some sort of festival! \240We paid the 2,50 euro for parking and slowly drove around the many rows trying to find a place to leave the car. \240Dan found a good place along the side of the parking road that was really close to the village entrance. \240We got out of the car and began walking up a steep hill toward the village. \240This was amazing! \240It was an ancient town with half-timber buildings dating back to the middle of the 15th century through the mid-1700s. \240The plaster type construction appeared to be made out of mud and straw, similar materials to adobe. \240Most of the buildings had thatched roofs and big heavy wooden doors. \240

(Historic Kommern village)

The reason as to why the historic village was so crowded today was because in nearly every building someone was set up selling their homemade items, such as embroidery, knitted hats and socks, and ornaments. \240Some of the buildings had Christmas greens with candles glowing and a wonderful warm fire going in the fireplace. In one house a woman was cooking candied nuts over an open fire. \240In another a lady was dressed in period costume chopping wood. \240

(15th century structure)

(Hand-made wooden displays)

The structures were crowded with people coming and going. \240Families were sipping on Glüwein and munching on German cookies. \240There were a lot of babies and young children enjoying strolling the grounds and going in and out of each building to see what or who was inside1. Creamy-cheeked toddlers with their pudgy faces and knit hats looks so adorable and we hear several “Wow cool!” Exclamations from the kids as they stomped up the narrow coffin steps of the windmill. \240All of the information placards were in German, but at least the signage in the front of each building gave a description of at least what the building was used for. \240There was a choir in a tiny chapel singing German songs. \240It was too crowded to take a look inside so we moved on. \240

(Detail of the windows and side of a building from TThe 1450s)

(Kommern village)

(Historic Kommern)

(Christmas display in one of the barns)

I truly enjoyed the afternoon. \240It was cold and grey but for some reason I didn’t feel it. \240It was really exciting to see all of the old buildings and get to experience something like this in Germany. \240It was very reminiscent of Millbrook Village in New Jersey, an old pioneering village from the 1800s. \240Every fall they have a weekend where people can come and go in an out of the buildings enjoying hot, homemade cider, and apple butter. \240This was very similar. \240I felt privileged to be a part of what appeared to be a very local tradition. \240My mother would absolutely love it here! \240I grew up in a 200 year old farmhouse in northern New Jersey and she had it all decked out with Colonial period antiques and decor. \240We now refer to her decorating style as “Donnaburg”. Well this place was the equivalent of a German Donnaburg. \240I didn’t think my mother’s love of old things had worn off on me, but we went to one of the Edo Period villages in Japan in 2012 and that was one of my favorite days there. \240I liked this village equally as much! \240It isn’t so much the way of life that fascinates me, but the architecture, building materials, and engineering design. \240

(Yet another gorgeous German structure)

It began to get dark after 16:00 and I could no longer take pictures very well with the Canon camera. \240The walking paths were lit with lanterns and real candles making for a very warm lighted walk on the way back to the car. \240We were able to drive away from our parking spot and we took a different way back to the apartment complex. \240Everyone else seemed to return in the opposite direction so we literally had zero trouble getting away from the crowded parking lot. \240We were all very glad to be able to eat in tonight and spend the evening relaxing. \240

(Fireplace in one of the buildings)

(One of the artisans at the Kommern village)

We got back to the apartment and began making dinner. \240Dan and Carole made a amazing dinner of sausage, red cabbage, mixed vegetables, with the mustard I had bought at the grocery this morning. \240It was delicious! \240Afterward I helped clean up the kitchen and Liam picked out a movie for everyone to watch. \240We watched “Arrival” and then bedded down for the night. \240Wonderful day!

(One of the buildings of Vogelsang)

(The symbol of the NSDAP)

(Sports training grounds of Vogelsang)

(Torch-bearer statue of a perfect man of the Arian race)

Once the war had begun construction plans for the Vogelsang were never finished. \240Young men could not finish their schooling due to a lack of instructors. \240The school was then used by priviledged and chosen boys for the Adolf Hitler school with the goal of training young minds and bodies for the future Reich and Arian race.

Once the men left the German educational schools, they were deployed into the ranks of the Reich to spread their regime and practice their philosophy. \240It was absolutely heartbreaking to hear interviews with people who survived the Holocaust. \240Their description of what they lived through and what they saw was unbearable and I wondered how they were ever able to live any semblance of a normal life after that.

After the museum we took a break at the cafe to get some lunch. \240The food was delicious and we wolfed down sauerbraten, red cabbage, and some sort of gluey balled potato. \240

As we exited the museum, we stood on a stone stepped platform that overlooked the courtyard where so many of the SS once stood. \240We were standing in the exact spot where Hitler himself had stood no doubt delivering an emphatic speech. \240It made my skin crawl. \240The edifice of Vogelsang stood cold and imposing above the surrounding valley and could be seen by all from down below. \240It had a grey, cold presence of oppression and fear that had nothing to do with the bitter drizzly rain we were walking through. \240This place was meant to show strength and edurance. \240I did not find it beautiful but frightening as if I was walking around a prison hearing the ghosts of those long past who once wandered on Death Row.

We made our way down toward the old sports arena. \240The statues of burley muscular naked men with athletic physiques were meant to inspire greatness and show the type of men that the NSDAP was striving for; perfect Aryian beings. \240Eventually the Allied forces occupied Vogelsang. \240All of the statues that we saw bore bullet holes and disfiguration no doubt from the Allied forces. \240The stone carvings at the sports arena were mostly decapitated and showed evidence of bullet holes.

(View of imposing Vogalsang from the sports arena)

(Stone carved statues disfigured and decapitated)

(View of The Valley and lake below the hill which seats Vogelsang)

(Vogelsang)

When we were finished wandering the grounds we made our way back to the car and drove back to Schleiden. \240We were all a bit tired from the day so we only spent a little time walking in and out of the shops along the Main Street of the village we were staying in. \240It was beginning to get dark so we went back to the apartments to get some laundry done and relax for a spell. \240Dinner tonight consisted of leftovers and hot sandwiches. \240Dan, James, and I had fun trying different types of beer during dinner. \240I especially like the Winter spice beers.

Tomorrow we drive to Brussels and spend the night there. \240We will be able to walk to many of the places we want to see right from our hotel so that will be exciting.

(Strolling through Schleiden/Gemünd)

(The brew house in Schleiden/Gemund where we were rudely shoed away the other night)

(Funny poster at the local grocery. \240Guess they guy broke his tooth on a nut)

(Liege)

(Walking to the market in Liege Belgien.)

We entered the Christmas Market and I found it quite a different experience than the markets in Germany and Austria. There were local artisans selling unique things. \240James and I particularly liked the planters made out of gourds. \240There was a Ferris wheel set up and some of the Christmas huts had typical carnival things that we might find at home. \240They do have Gluwein here but there isn’t an option to keep the mug. \240It is served in a wax paper cup. \240The food variety was different fare than in Germany or Austria. \240We had half baguettes with fixings on top like a pizza but without marinara sauce. \240They were so tasty! \240Crispy on the outside and doughy on the inside! \240James got some handmade macaroons and I’ve never tasted anything like them before. \240Finally we came across a pototoe hut that sold some sort of potato au gaten. \240It had meat, onion, and cheese cooked on huge metal pans. \240We are eating our way across Europe and our bodies are showing it!

(christmas market in Liege)

(Liege Belgium)

(Christmas market in Liege)

(Potato au Gräten dish at the Christmas market in Liege)

(Eating our way across Europe!）

(Christmas market in Liege)

We finished our time at the Christmas market and headed back to the car for the remaining drive to Brussels. \240Dan maneuvered beautifully through the streets of Brussels to get us to the Marriot parking garage. \240James had to call the Marriot hotel first to get them to open the parking garage door. \240We were concerned about driving the huge van into the narrow tunnel of the parking garage for fear it would be too tall or too wide, but we managed. \240We parked the car and check in at the hotel. \240James struck up a conversation with the very friendly consierge, Jose. \240Jose was very surprised that we didn’t have huge luggage bags for him to carry up to our room. He thought we were very curious standing there looking disheveled and punchy. \240I was standing there with my shopping bag stuff sack full of clothes for an overnight stay and it was tied at the top. If I had a stick with me, I could have tied it to the end and looked like a hobo! \240Jose gave James some great information about what to do with our short time here. \240

After putting our belongings in our expansive suites, we were ready to join a walking tour. \240

(The view from our window in Brussels)

(Liam taking a little break before a walk about town)

Dan decided to stay back with Ben and Andrew so Carole, James, Liam and I walked to the plaza area to meet up with a 16:00 tour group. \240We emerged from the direction of our hotel onto the Grand Place of Brussels, \240It was breathtaking! \240It was listed as a world heritage site in 1998 and is considered one of the most beautiful city squares in the world. \240The \240buildings display \240intricate architecture of the city hall, Mason Du Roi, and the guild houses. \240The history of this place dates back to the early 15th century. \240In the early 1500s several Protestants were martyred during the inquisition.

Our guide was very animated and spoke very quickly. \240 I had trouble keeping up with her even though she was speaking English. \240It was interesting to hear about how King Louis the 14th \240ransacked Brussels and destroyed an estimated 75% of the city. \240Our guide showed us some of the surviving buildings that were much older than vivacious King Lu. \240The older buildings had what appeared to be long metal vertical stakes on the exterior facade. \240The stakes were part of the structural integrity of the buildings. \240

(Guild houses on the Grand Place)

(Grand Place Brussels)

(Grand Place Brussels)

(Grand Place Brussels)

The tour lasted about 2 hours. \240I was uncomfortable with back pain and the damp chilly air just seemed to go right through my warm coat. \240I was glad when it was over so that I could get back inside and out of the cold breeze. \240

(Indoor mall area specializing in Belgium chocolatiers)

(Indoor mall area specializing in Belgium chocolatiers)

Our tour guide ended the tour in the artisan area of town just up the hill from the Grand Place. \240We walked down the steps toward the Grand Place and we got to catch the light and sound show that is performed on the buildings. \240The buildings light up in colored beauty as music is blaring over the square to match the light show. \240This spectacle combined with the enormous Christmas tree on the square was definitely an unforgettable sight!

(Cathedral in Brussels)

(Light show on the Grand Plaza)

(Light show on the Grand Plaza)

(Light show on Grand Plaza)

It was a relief to get back to the hotel and thaw out. \240With Dan’s elite status with Marriot, we were able to have access to the elite member lounge. \240That meant free drinks and pupus! \240I didn’t want to fill up too much as we had dinner reservations at the steak restaurant here at the hotel at 7. \240

The meals were excellent as expected. \240I order a Belgium filet mignon. \240It was good, but I guess I’m just not that much of a steak fan to rave about it. \240It still feels odd eating meat again. \240tomorrow we will spend some time walking around Brussels before heading back to Schleiden

(A very good wine!)

(Guild buildings in the beautiful morning sun)

(Guild buildings at Grand Place World Heritage site)

After taking pictures at the Grand Place, we walked over to some chocolatier shops. \240Liam and I chose several individual chocolates to share with everyone. \240They were probably the best chocolates I have ever tasted. \240The one with the vanilla bourbon center was out of this world! \240We all had fun buying treats as gifts for people and each other.

(Beautiful and delectable chocoate sensations)

After sampling our chocolate delicacies we tried to a Christmas market but they were still closed. \240We decided to get packed up from the hotel and get a start on our journey for the day. \240Brussels was a truly interesting experience. \240It is not as pretentious as a place like Paris, but seems to be a hodgepodge of cultures, time periods, languages and architecture all rolled into one. \240There are 4 official languages in Brussels and 6 Parlaments. \240It gave me the impression that anything goes. \240

(This morning James was watching his minions on the streets down below. \240This was my response)

Dan maneuvered the van out of the tight concrete parking garage with great skill. \240We drove through the streets of Brussels and headed east. \240Once we were clear of the city we were driving through expansive green fields and small villages. \240Our route took us north and east into the Netherlands. \240We stopped in a town called Valkenburg. \240After parking the car we walked to a Christmas market that was located in a limestone cave. \240It cost cost 7,50 euros per person entry fee. \240I was annoyed at how expensive it was just to go to a Christmas market, but later on Dan informed me that the entry fee was part of a fundraiser. \240The market was blaring American pop Christmas music and most of the tables were selling wares that we had no interest in. \240It was novel to walk around a cave and see ugly Christmas decorations but I was disappointed. \240The Christmas trees with plain white lights were nice, but the other decor was quite gaudy. \240

(Liam on a Sinterclaas throne)

(Valkenburg Christmas market in a cave)

(Cave art)

(Just outside the Christmas market in Valkenburg Netherlands)

James, Liam, and I enjoyed a Holland Stroopwaffel with pecans. \240It was really good but I felt very overloaded with sugar. \240I’m going top have to go through a lot of culinary withdrawal once I get home. \240We were just about to find the exit when we finally happened across a table that had some traditional Holland delft blue ornaments. \240They weren’t very expensive so I’m sure they were not authentic delft but the novelty to buying something from Holland that we cannot get at home was what we were after. \240I had fun picking out ornaments and I bought two small Dutch buildings that are meant to be lit up with a tea light candle. \240

We walked through the streets of Valkenburg. \240Cozy restaurants lined the streets with outdoor seating areas consisting of heat lamps and blankets for the patron’s legs. \240It was after 5 and we were tempted to eat dinner at one of these quaint Dutch places, but we were also ready to get back to our apartment and unwind for the evening. \240We decided to walk to a grocery store and buy some dinner items so we could eat at “home”. \240I was glad to not have to sit at a restaurant tonight. \240I was feeling travel worn and wanted to put on my pjs and settle in for the night.

(One of the many restaurants in Valkenburg)

(Valkenburg)

(Valkenburg Netherlands)

(Valkenburg Netherlands)

We still had an hour driving to get back to Schleiden. \240We made it back without incident and we were all very ready to get out of the car. \240I was feeling slightly nauseous probably due to car motion and snacking on treats and sweets all day. \240We arrived back at the apartment a little after 7. \240Dan and Carole immediately started on dinner and created a fabulous meal of pork schnitzle, spaetzel, mixed vegetables and saurkraut. \240

(Good things come to those who wait. \240Dinner at the apartment! \240Yay!)

James and I cleaned up the kitchen and we made plans for tomorrow. \240We will have a lazy morning and then drive to Cologne for our Chocolate museum tour and hit a few Christmas markets there as well. \240The German Christmas markets are the best we’ve seen so far. \240We felt the ones in Belgium and Holland were a bit commercialized selling wares that had nothing to do with christmas or gift giving. \240They do sell Gluwein but you can’t get it in a commemorative mug. \240I’m looking forward to Cologne!

(Crossing the Rhine river on foot in Cologne)

(View of the Rhine and the cathedral in the distance of Cologne Germany)

We crossed the Rhine and headed in the general direction of the Chocolate museum. \240The boys were getting hungry and it was nearly noon so we decided to hit a Christmas market before going to the museum. \240This was a wise choice as I had one of my best tasting lunches at a small market right on the river. \240I ordered Spinak Knödel which was some sort of spinach and bread ball with cheese inside. \240It was delicious and so was the green salad that it came with. \240It was heavy on the olive oil and heavy on the flavor from the cheese. \240

(Mein Spinak Knödel. \240Das ist lecker!)

The rest of the gang ordered smoked salmon sandwiches which they really enjoyed. \240

(Lunching at a market)

With our bellies full, we walked over to the Lindt Chocolate museum. \240This place was huge! \240It was a lot more involved than I thought it would be. \240In typical museum fashion there were many placards to read about the cacao tree, the process of harvesting cacao beans, where it is grown, \240the living and working conditions of cacao workers, and how much chocolate is made in productions countries. \240It was interesting but I think my favorite part was when we actually got to see all of the equipment on the production line. \240Visitors could press a button and a Lindt chocolate would be released from production and a mechanical arm would deliver it down a shoot right into your hand.

(Production equipment at Lindt Chocolate museum)

(Free sample of liquid mild chocolate on a biscuit!)

(Production worker at the museum)

I’m guessing this particular production line is for the tourists and the rest of the chocolate is mass produced hidden elsewhere in the building. \240

(All chocolate!)

The rest of the family moved on into the next area of the museum. \240James and I had a blast trying to make a silly video at one of the production machines that was belching out liquid chocolate. \240James turned his phone on video mode and began making a farting noise while I sang a Willy Wonka song in the background. \240It was quite hilarious and the two of us could not stop laughing in order to make the movie clip the way we had hoped, but we got the job done anyway!

The next portion of the museum had ancient stone statues from countries such as Mexico who originally began using the cacao as a liquid drink. \240We did not have time to really read much of anything in there and I think all of us were surprised by the extent of the interpretive sections of the museum. \240In the next area showed a collection of old chocolate vending machines and old chocolate packaging boxes. \240Finally we spend a few minutes in the gift shop before walking toward the cathedral. \240

(I see chocolate ears on that girl)

We walked toward the cathedral and found a lovely Christmas market. \240It was the best market we had visited yet. \240The huts were beautiful and the merchandise appeared to be high quality stuff. \240I particularly like NOT hearing crappy American Christmas pop music. \240There was an old man pushing a trolly that was a music making marching so that was novel. \240

(Cologne Christmas market)

(One of the beautiful Christmas huts)

(Small German houses meant for a tea light candle. \240I LOVE these!)

(Cologne Christmas market)

This market was amazing. \240I truly enjoyed this one. \240The ambiance was exactly what I pictured a Christmas market should be; delicious Glüwein in really neat mugs, beautiful hand made items, Bavarian style merchandise huts, and NO American Christmas pop music! \240

It was time to move on to the market in the cathedral square. \240This one was larger and had beautiful lighting but I still liked the one we had just come from quite a bit better. \240This market had a huge centrally located Christmas tree with strings of lights forming a large canopy under the evening sky. \240The cathedral was a majestic masterpiece towering above immediately adjacent to the market. \240It was magical! Nobody does Christmas like Germany!

(Beautiful lights at the market)

(Cologne Christmas market)

(Cathedral square christmas market)

(Nobody does Christmas markets like Germany)

(Christmas market and cathedral in Cologne Germany）

We walked out to the front of the emence, jaw-dropping cathedral. \240People were going inside but we did not have time to do that before it was time to meet up with the rest of the family. \240

(Cologne cathedral)

We made the long walk back to the van and st

(Morning walk near the Schleiden/Gemünd apartment complex)

(Walking around Schleiden/Gemünd)

(Walking path signs. \240I wish America had bike paths and walking path everywhere like what we’ve seen everyplace we’ve been)

We decided to follow the signs to Vogelsang even though we knew we only had a relatively short amount of time to be out exploring. \240We walked on a path through the woods with a river gushing in The valley directly below. \240We were wondering if we were walking through private property because there were horse corals on one side and several barns on the other side of the path. \240We came a cross a case that housed honey. \240There was a pay box for 5 euros per jar. \240How neat! \240We bought one. \240Ah yet another breakable to stow in our luggage. \240When we lived on Maui there were always flowers and fresh fruit for sale in front of houses. \240This honey sale reminded me a lot of that. \240

(Buying local honey)

We continued on our walk through the woods a bit farther but realized it was time to turn around. \240Liam still needed to get some homework done and I wanted to get going on our packing before venturing out to Monschau this afternoon. \240

(Beautiful rural setting of Schleiden/Gemünd)

(Fun sign. \240We all call this the “No slapping zone” sign. \240In actuality it says “Unauthorized prohibited” but to us, it’s No slapping!)

We got back to the apartment and began fixing sandwiches and leftovers for lunch. \240I took the time to wrap grocery store adds around our Glüwein mugs. \240It was challenging to to try to fit all of our many souvenirs in our luggage. \240Liam went to Boy Scout World Jamboree this summer and one of the items included in the price was a 120 liter Osprey luggage bag. \240On our initial travel to get here Liam put his smaller Osprey carry-on inside of the huge bag knowing that we would need the large bag for all of the stuff we bought and needed to bring back. \240It is almost completely full! \240I think we have about 15 mugs plus all of the treats and sweets we bought to take home. \240I also went nuts buying Senseo coffee pods for my coffee maker because I cannot get the pods anywhere in the US. \240Fun!! \240I really hope nothing breaks. \240

After lunch Dan, James, Ben, Liam, and me make the half hour drive to the village of Monschau. \240It was raining steadily. \240The warm yellow glow of the Christmas lights glistened on the wet cobble stones making for a very enjoyable Stoll around town beneath my umbrella. \240We wandered in and out of the shops and took in the picturesque Half-timber structures likely dating from the Middle Ages. \240

(Monschau Christmas market)

(One of the many beautiful buildings in lovely Monschau)

(Monschau)

We stopped for some Glüwein and some snacks. \240The hot chocolate and Glüwein warmed up our hands as we sheltered beneath an awning out of the rain. \240

(Prost!! Cheers!)

(Monschau on a dreary afternoon. \240I loved the weather!!!)

The drizzle continued as we walked through town. \240I wished we had more time to spend here but I’m glad we got to be here for a couple of hours. \240I was appreciating the rainy, gray day very much. \240The cheerfully lit windows and German Kinder Christmas carols piped through the speaker system felt so quaint and romantic with the rain hitting my umbrella. \240

(Monschau)

(Timber structures on the Monschau canal)

(Beautiful Monschau)

(Monschau)

We went back to the car after strolling along the main lane of the market. \240We drove to a store called Real, which is a store similar to the American Walmart. \240We had a good time shopping for Christmas decorations, chocolate, sauce packets, biscuits, and items for dinner tonight.

Shopping extravaganza completed, we made the drive back to the apartment to get dinner started. \240Tonight’s meal consisted of a shmorgasboard of croquettes (tater tots), brats, gnocchi, and mixed veggies. \240I am so full. \240I can’t believe in a few days time I’ll be switching back to a plant-based diet again and returning to the land of 12 shades of brown and eternal sun. \240

(Maerklin train layout)

(Maerklin train layout)

By the time we were finished at the gift shop we were all very eager for some Thai food. \240It was almost 3 and we hadn’t had much to eat since early this morning. \240Unfortunately the Thai place was buttoned up tight. \240James found us another place a quarter of a mile away. \240That place was closed too. \240It was just that odd time of day when restaurants were closed between lunch and dinner. \240We had no choice but to make the 45 minute drive to the hotel in Stuttgart. \240I was feeling cranky and hangry, as was everyone else. \240On we drove. \240Finding the hotel wasn’t a problem. \240Finding parking? Again we are too tall for the underground parking garages. \240We ended up having to drive in a big loop in order to get to the carport in front of the hotel so that Dan could check us in and inquire about a place to park the van. \240It took us a good 20-30 minutes to get that worked out. \240We lugged our bags up to our rooms and waited for the guys to get back from dealing with the van. \240We were all beyond hungry at this point. \240We decided to walk to the mall which was adjacent to our hotel. \240Food Court food was just fine with us. \240I opted for Indian Food. \240Dan and Carole had to find an ATM because the Thai booth didn’t except Visa. \240James, Liam, and I immediately began eating as we waited for the Thomasons to get their dinner. \240My meal had yogurt and jalapeños as a garnishment. \240The peppers were buried under the thick milky yogurt and I bit into one. \240I usually don’t mind jalapeños but they started really bothering the back of my throat. \240I began a truly uncomfortable coughing fit that made my eyes tear up and I couldn’t even talk. \240We all grabbed our food and headed back to the hotel to sit at one of the tables in the lobby. \240I purposely tried to avoid the peppers by trying to take a bite of just the yogurt to cool off my throat. \240It was just my luck that the exact same thing happened AGAIN. \240There I was coughing my head off with tears from the pressure rolling down my face. \240Ugh. \240I was annoyed and wished I could just enjoy my meal. \240Finally my cough subsided. \240My tandoori chicken dish in a creamy tomatoe sauce was really very good. \240 With full bellies we all felt human again to enjoy the evening. \240No Christmas markets for us as we had arrived in Stuttgart too late and none of us wanted to walk the 1.7 miles to get to the one that might still be open. \240The boys went up to their room and the four of us strolled around the mall. \240

(A night at the Stuttgart mall! Oh boy!)

Usually I’m not much of a mall person but I had fun browsing around a euro store that offered cheap junk. \240It was very much like a Dollar store at home or the Pound stretcher in the UK. \240Carole had success finding a really nice pair of boots and James fell in love with Birkenstocks again. \240More stuff to get home! \240Americans and their STUFF! \240It was a fun time. \240

(Carole becoming an angel!)

We hung out in Dan and Caroles room for a little while. \240I didn’t stay too long as I wanted to consolidate my things for tomorrow and I was ready to give my back a break and lie down. \240Long day. \240Tomorrow we are up at 6 and must be ready to depart for the airport by 7. \240I was struggling to get comfortable. \240My coughing fit had come back and I was feeling miserable with apprehension about the flight home (getting our bags through security) and no matter what I did I just kept coughing. \240I finally drifted off to sleep sitting up propped against my pillows. \240

(Bags ready, boy is not)

We loaded up in the van and drove through the darkened streets to get to the Eurocar rental center to drop off the van. I felt groggy and slightly nauseaous. \240Typical morning feeling when I don’t give myself enough time to wake up. \240We arrived at the airport and lugged our bags to the Delta check-in area. \240I was glad to get rid of my red osprey bag and I’m sure James was glad to ditch that huge blue bag. \240Next it was time to get through security. \240We got on line and inched forward. \240My carryon is usually always help aside for extra screening. \240What would I do If they wanted all of the breakables unpacked? \240Liam’s bag was first to get singled out. \240They took everything out of his bag and scrutinized the small jar of pesto that I had bought at a Christmas market. \240It was considered a liquid so we were forced to throw it away. \240They took out wooly slippers from his bag too and unwrapped the mugs that were wedged inside. \240Liam’s bag was deemed “safe” so he had to spend time repacking everything back up. \240Next came my bag. \240My bag had most of our breakables in it. \240It had the majority of our market mugs wrapped tightly in news print and carefully placed in and around clothing. \240They took everything out and began unwrapping the news print. \240Next came the 2 jars of mustard that I bought for people for gifts. \240The mustard came in nice pottery keepsake jugs and I was forced to throw the large one out. \240There goes 8 euros in the garbage and a nice piece of pottery. \240They felt bad about having to do that but I knew It wasn’t their fault. \240I was livid. \240Not at TSA but at myself. \240Why am I so stupid? \240I ought to know by now that anything at all that has a slight amount of liquid will be confiscated. \240I just feel that I can never get anything right. \240I allowed myself 5 minutes to blow of steam but I had to move on. \240We got something to eat at the airport and endured paying 4 euros for a half cup of coffee. \240I felt better once I had eaten but was still ridiculing and beating myself up. \240When God gave out brains I must have been wandering around the forests and gotten lost. \240Sigh. \240James went into a nearby shop to look at the sourveniers. \240He found a really cut stuffed Shawn the Sheep and decided to buy it. \240He had a 10 euro bill and a handful of coins. \240The cashier stared him down with dagger eyes because he did not have the change counted out ahead of time and turned out he did not have enough. \240She sat there scowling as we sheepishly (no pun intended) slunk away. \240I got my wallet back from Liam and gave James the extra amount to pay for the item. \240James went back in to buy it and said the woman was just as cranky as before. \240I wonder who peed in her pretzel this morning?

Next we got on another line to go through the passport security. \240It was getting toward crunch time because we knew our flight had already begun boarding. \240Liam was singled out for additional screening and his line was taking quite a while. \240We waited for him and when he was done we were the last ones in the line to get through. \240I was getting nervous about making our flight! \240We got to our gate and were one of the last ones to board the plane. \240What a morning! \240

Our flight to Atlanta was scheduled to be a little over 10 hours. \240We were all very glad to get situated, take a sigh of relief and try to relax. \240It was a smooth take-off and the flight attendants soon began readying the lunches. \240James had pre-ordered me a vegan meal so mine came out first. \240It seems a bit silly to be eating vegan today since Ive been filling my face with everything under the sun for the past 2 weeks, but tomorrow I’m back on my plant-based diet. \240My meal was really good. \240It was a coconut curry lentil and eggplant dinner over rice, served with baba ganousch, raw veggies, and fruit. \240

(Shawn the Sheep welcome to the fam)

(Our new baby)

(My hot lunch!)

For dessert I had salted caramel icecream. \240My last fling with dairy. \240Oh soo good!

Ten hours later we landed in Atlanta Georgia. \240I took out my boarding ticket for our connecting flight to Albuquerque. \240Bummer. \240I had forgotten we have a 5 hour layover here. \240The Thomasons had a 4 hour layover so at least we could have a final meal together. \240We deplaned and I was surprised to realize that we had to pick up our luggage off of the baggage carousel. \240I hoped we didn’t have to go through security with them all over again. \240As it turned out we just had to pick them up and cart them over to the baggage drop-off for our connecting flights. \240Today was all about waiting on lines. \240We had to go through passport security and then we found a place to eat dinner. \240I wasn’t feeling very hungry as I had eaten both the vegan wrap and the pizza wrap that was provided for me on the flight but knew I should eat something because there won’t be any significant food on our next flght. \240We went to a sports burger place so that those that wanted to could watch the Chiefs game. \240I ordered a veggie burger. \240It was okay but half burned.

We left the restaurant and headed to the Thomason’s gate for their flight. \240We spent the few remaining moments with them until we decided to head to our own gate for the Albuquerque flight. \240Ben and Andrew were zonked and fell asleep in their seats. \240Liam was forcing himself to remain awake. \240

(Riding the airport tram to the domestic terminal)

(Tired boys)

It was hard to say goodbye but made a bit easier as we were all so tired. \240After saying our farewells we headed to our gate. \240I wasn’t looking forward to spending nearly 4 hours on another plane. \240I was seriously wanting my bed. \240We boarded our plane and got settled in. \240I put on a movie but got about 20 minutes in and couldn’t keep my eyes open. \240I dozed and suddenly I heard the announcement that we were preparing to land in Albuquerque. \240YAY! \240We deplaned and it felt like 4am. \240At first I thought “Well the time change isn’t so bad, it’s 9:30 in the morning here.” \240Then I realized it was 9:30 at night. \240We grabbed our bags and caught the airport shuttle to our parked car. \240James drove us home and I had all I could do to keep my eyes open. \240We arrived home around 11 pm and James and Liam decided to start unpacking things to see if anything got damaged during the flights. \240Not me. \240I went straight to bed.

This was one of the best trips I have ever taken. \240It was very enjoyable due to the fact that we got to travel with family memebers! \240Thanks to the Thomason’s timeshare, Dan’s lodging points, and Dan’s diligence with planning and budgeting we were able to enjoy a trip of a lifetime. \240Indeed Liam said it was his best trip because of the Thomasons. \240He also mentioned that traveling with just James and I is really boring. \240Oh well. \240I’m not sure when we will be able to do a big trip again. \240Our boys are growing up so quickly and before we know it they will be in college. \240I’m so thankful for this time we had all together. \240It was unforgettable. \240