May 26, 2022
Today we begin with a 2.5 hours (maybe 3) ride to Siracusa where will have a tour (2.5 hours). There will be free time from 1:00-3:00 and we (Susie, Jen, Shelly) will meet Heather Reid, professor emeritus of Mside. She was my faculty mentor when I started and now lives in Siracusa.
The bus ride was only an hour and fifteen minutes, so that was good. Info I learned…
Siracusa was founded in 734 by the Greeks (Corinthians). They had economic issues on their main island so went looking for better soil for farming and found more than that here. In addition to the farming opportunities, they found fresh water supplies and the location was strategic. The quarries (limestone) proved useful for mining as underground, they were solid (top eroded more than underground). A majority of the rock used for building dwellings and monuments came from the quarry here. 120,000 “men” lived here, meaning those who had political rights. If you multiply that by about 3 (to account for women and slaves), that would be more like the actual population.
Dionysius (not the Greek god) was the ruler, and he was paranoid so set up shop in a cave. Because of the acoustics in the cave, the story is he could put his ear to the wall and hear about the things being said about them. Well, that’s the story supposedly told by Caravaggio (artist) who visited the island. Inside the cave, the local guide asked for a singer, so I volunteered and sang a portion of Amazing Grace so folks could hear the acoustics. Pretty cool. A bit further in the cave, maybe a better spot for acoustics, she had me sing again. Susie suggested Mama Mia, so I did that. This time around, a couple of other groups who were in the cave stopped and listened (I saw a few folks even taking some video). A natural wonder to be able to have those kinds of acoustics in the mountain (and I feel lucky to be the one to sing as the example). The cave and surrounding area is also a part of the set for the newest Indiana Jones movie.
Three styles of architecture: Doric, ionic, and Corinthian (I’ll have to look these up to note the difference).
We saw the Greek theater and a Roman amphitheater. The Greek theater had a covering over the okestra and scene because they were setting up for their Greek festival. In this theatre, the seats were carved right into the limestone of the mountain. When the Christians came through to use the area, they took spots all around the back of the seating area and made them into tombs. There was also a fresh water fountain that was likely highly decorated in the times of the Greeks/Romans. The water was the last part of an water system that diverted to this location.
After our tour, we went to Ortigia, which is a small island next to Siracusa. There, we did a short walking tour, then Shelly, Susie, Jen, and I met Heather. She showed us the Exedra Mediterranean Center, which is the location the most recent group of Mside in Italy students studied. It was a home at one point and has been converted to its current use. We had a nice lunch. One thing I liked most was the sampler platter featuring some typical foods: dried tomatoes, olives, a cheese with peppers in it, salami, etc. The cheese was a favorite of Hemingway who visited this location (Heather pointed just down the way to a bar he used to visit). She also mentioned another author who wrote about Hemingway and how much he liked that cheese (I’ll have to find out the name of that book.)
We drove back to the hotel (which, by the way, is just after the exit to a lap dance bar — so Tizi says, “Wakey, wakey, it’s the lap dance exit,” or something like that) and sat around for a bit. Susie collected names for the various options we will have when we get to Rome on Saturday, some kids went to the beach, some sat around and relaxed. Groups ventured out for dinner. My group went to Arcobaleno; it was basically deserted when we got there and the grandpa of the place seated us. This guy kind of made me think of my dad because he sat there by himself, watching the people go by, talking to himself a little bit. It was a bit sad, but he was probably the one-time owner of the place and was still in a location he was familiar with and loved. The pizza was pretty good.
Back at the hotel, we arranged with the elderly gentleman running the lobby bar (and helping with snacks and playing a keyboard — such a nice guy!) to allow us to hook up to his speaker through the keyboard and sing karaoke. I started (Proud Mary) and I could see the guy’s wife taking video of me. I guess that’s a compliment! Emma sang. No other takers. I sang again. Caleb and Emma sang. And then we were off. We did this for a good couple of hours then called it a night. A few folks went off to the bar. Tizi and I chatted outside for a while. I finally went up to shower and was in bed around 1:30 a.m. (yeesh).