The adventure begins! Matt and I found ourselves in Australia for an extended play due to Coronavirus and so, decided to do something we’ve talked about for years but have never been here at the right time of year for: tackle the Kimberley Region outback via a camper trailer and 4WD.

We’ve got just shy of 2 weeks to cover Port Hedland - Broome - Kununurra and back again: some 3,500 kilometres. \240We’re off to warm up our bones after Perth’s freezing winter (18 degree days in Perth, upwards of 40 where we’re headed...) see gorges, natural wonders of the world, some pretty corrugated roads and lots and lots of red dust. \240I’m also going to come toe to toe with camping for the first time in 30 years. \240What could go wrong? (crocodiles, poisonous snakes, spiders, jelly fish, stingers, remote highways with no support for break downs...) \240Let’s go!

Our trip plan. \240Check out how far Perth is from the start of our trip (a 20 hour drive, better handled via a flight thank you)

We started the day to the sound of birds singing and the breeze rustling through our eco tent. \240Matt went for a beach walk and a swim in the ocean which he had all to himself.

I went for a fabulous yoga session led by Manu in a room overlooking the ocean.

We hit the road about 8:20 AM after a walk down to the creek and an unexpected visit with a bull.

550 kilometres of driving took us to our destination: Palm Springs, a spring fed water hole in the midst of the desert, outside of Halls Creek. \240Just beautiful!

We met up with a group of 4 police officers there including Sue Young who was hired with Nicki. \240Typical small world Perth.

The good, the bad and the in between:

The good (the great, really): the water hole was beautiful and the setting was lovely. No crocs!

The bad: \240a group of aboriginal folks came at the same time: 4 cars and trucks full and they were drinking and very loud. \240I felt uneasy and Matt was thinking that we would leave if they stayed. \240In the end they left, and left behind heaps of garbage and diapers which was really sad. \240Left me feeling like we’re in bad shape with our First Nations people in Canada and Australia. \240So similar to what Kelly told me about from her time at the reserve in Northern Ontario.

I picked up the garbage as another couple of campers came in and shared their delight and appreciation.

The rest of the night was beautiful and serene.

We slept so well. \240This \240morning I heard a babbling brook and followed my ears to a lovely creek. \240 unfortunately it also had rubbish around and scads of used toilet paper and a bar of soap left in the creek itself. \240 I cleaned it all up, dislodged a dam in the creek and had it free flowing again- a win for nature!

Matt and I commented that it would be good if there was a toilet at the site. \240That’s when we noticed that there had been one recently built: a lovely composting style kind. \240But it had been burned to the ground, likely by the aboriginal folks. \240There’s got to be a better way.

The good: the great, really. \240We swam in the spring fed water hole and had it all to ourselves this morning!! No crocs about. (It’s freshwater and apparently the “freshies” as they’re affectionately referred to, are quite harmless. \240We didn’t see any thankfully.

The nights are so beautiful and bright as we’ve been approaching a full moon - full moon is tonight.

We woke up early with the sun and were on the way to echidna chasm by 7 AM. \240It is a gorgeous track through a narrow chasm caused by a fault line. The rocks look like aggregate with round river rock, and the signs explained that they were laid down by ancient rivers 360 million years ago.

It was so hot (40 degrees) so we headed back to camp after our hike and I came up with a creative use for the cooler.

Destination Lake Argyle!

We were up and at ‘em around 5 AM and packed up and on the road by 6:30 AM, needing to tackle the 60 km track out of the National Park. \240It is heavily corrugated and big rocks everywhere but we were prepared, having come in via the same track 2 days before. \240Matt let a little air out of the tires, found the right speed (not too fast, definitely not too slow) and we listened to a podcast called Rabbit Hole \240to pass the time. \240Easy peasy.

We were at Lake Argyle by lunch. \240We treated ourselves to a little cabin with a shower and toilet- how exciting after 4 nights of roughing it. \240They have an infinity pool here also, overlooking Lake Argyle, the second largest man made lake in Australia. \240It was so nice to be in the water and by the water. \240Love it!

They have Bower birds here a plenty and a lovely flock of black cockatoos, including a Mum, dad and bub. \240Also lots of neat lizards and frogs. \240Because they irrigate the property generously there is lush plant and animal life around. Beautiful.

C’mon Gibb River Road, let’s go!

It is HOT here and so there are people who are adapting their travel plans and cancelling the Gibb Rover Road which is an extremely remote 660 KM 4wd track that connects the west to the east on the northern part of WA. \240Also CoVid has seen the bulk of the stations close to the public resulting in little to see for large swaths of the track.

We deliberated in the morning and decided to do it anyway- we came 1/2 way with a plan to go right round so let’s commit!

We found some good info via Ruth at the resort (join Gibb River Road and Kimberley area FB group and check out Wiki camps- both were gems). \240We learned that the two options we had researched weren’t available (Home and Ellenbrae) \240but there were some decent free camping spots that we hadn’t previously heard of that were contenders. A remote possibility was making it to Barnett Homestead (Manning Gorge) but we didn’t want to put too much pressure on ourselves.

We decided to take advantage of the cooler temperatures in the morning, take it easy, go for a last swim in the infinity pool, and then organize the camper, the car, our luggage, take stock of our groceries and then head in to Kununurra for Re supply.

We were on the road to wherever on The GRR and pretty early on we realized we were going to try to make it to Barnett- 440 KM of dirt track- and we did!

Matt is an epic driver and he is tackling this driving adventure on his own. The roads weren’t too bad compared to Purnululu National Park and we were amply entertained by an ABC podcast called Trace. \240Very good.

We arrived and swam in a fresh water river by our camp. \240Heaven!

Some pictures from the road:

Manning Gorge and Silent Grove National Park (Bell Gorge)

It was HOT last night (high 30’s). \240We woke up to the most incredible heat in the middle of the night and it took some convincing to fall back asleep. \240Mercifully a breeze came through just as it was all feeling a bit too much.

We woke up early and in order to beat the heat, at 6 AM we started the trek to Manning Gorge, which required a swim across the river to start, putting our gear into floating tubs and then a trek over hill and dale, down gullies and over rocky outcrops to arrive at a sublime gorge. \240The swim was an incredible reward for the effort. \240The colours of the rock against the morning sky were amazing.

September 6: Thank goodness for the ability to be adaptable, flexible and open to suggestions! We are on the road to Broome!!!

Matt and I are jubilant. \240We’ve had such a good run, no injuries or mishaps, the car and trailer have been awesome and we have proven ourselves able campers. \240And now we celebrate by returning the camper trailer two days early and checking into a hotel. This vacation is about enjoying the contrasts: whether it’s in the colours of the sky and rock, the sand and ocean, or camping and hotelling.

We parked the car, high fived for finishing the Gibb and delighted in the facilities of the Kimberley Sands Resort: swimming, reading, eating at their restaurant, watching a little TV (Matt was excited at the football result: Eagles lost and the next day the Dockers won)

September 7: This morning we walked on Cable Beach at 6 AM, went for a swim, had a lovely brekky and were back at the hotel to divide and conquer: Matt = clean the car, B = laundry. \240So nice to just putter.

We had a picnic lunch at Town Beach to use up some of our leftover camping food and got to watch the tide roll in, rather quickly, to the mangroves.

We went to Sunset beach Bar to - you guessed it- watch the sunset. \240Divine.

September 8-10

Sept 8: Our last full day in Broome

Another sunrise walk on the beach, and this time we took our 4wd right into the sand.

Again, we almost had the place to ourselves. The beach is huge due to an incredible difference between high and low tide.

September 9: Port Hedland - here we come.

Time to pack up and move on. \240Matt had a conference call to Komatsu to try to figure out how to go forward in the US in the face of coronavirus with several key relationships having left the organization. \240Fingers crossed.

6 hours and 600 kilometres to Port Hedland where we pick up Damian, return the Toyota in one piece and have a good catch up dinner.

September 10: Matt and I go for an early morning walk around the Port and discuss the possibility of Mitch getting a start up here.

Back to the hotel to pack up. Matt drives me to the airport for my return home. \240He’ll continue the work trip with Damian and be back Sunday.

And that’s a wrap!

Dates: August 29 - September 10, 2020

Total kilometres: 3,500

Lessons learned:

- Go outside your comfort zone every once in awhile because you may just learn something new. \240For instance, I like camping! who knew? Virginia, Crystal and Lynn, all these years I hadn’t heeded the call, I realize now I was missing out. \240Thanks for the nudges and the advice too. \240The ability to get so close to nature and far away from the hustle and bustle of modern living is next level amazing. \240I have since spoken to Sabrina, and although reluctant she is slightly encouraged by my experience! You go girl.

- Choose your travel companion wisely. Matt is an incredible person to travel with and to rely upon when the unexpected happens, be it an Anderson plug that needs fixing or a Fridge that breaks down, tackling lots and lots of kilometres or setting up solar showers and port a loos.

-Be flexible, adaptable and read the play. \240So much joy came from the ability to go with the flow as opposed to being fixed to an itinerary/outcome.

-Trust people aka people are good. \240Other than the garbage incident at Palm Springs we met the most lovely, gentle, nature loving, respectful people on our travels. \240No loud music, no aggressive behaviour. \240People who appreciated and yearned to be in nature as much as we do. \240I loved that sense of connection with like minded people more than I had expected.

-What was once a favourite remains so. \240Returning home is still my favourite part of any adventure way.

So now we reflect on this trip as we enjoy the creature comforts of home (water pressure, flushing toilets, privacy!) and Matt dreams of buying a camper trailer for the next adventure to who knows where.

Can’t wait!