Memories of West Africa: The Years in Lomé and the Shadows of Civil War

In 1993, I set foot on Togolese soil for the first time, beginning my expatriate life in Lomé, the capital of this West African nation, as a tourism and trade professional. The streets of Lomé were filled with the salty scent of sea breeze, palm trees swayed along the beaches, and vibrant fabrics and spices filled the markets with energy and life. This land was both unfamiliar and irresistibly alluring to me. Little did I know, the next three years would be a mix of warmth and turmoil, leaving me with memories that would last a lifetime.

Lebanese Friends and Cross-Cultural Bonds

When I first arrived in Lomé, aside from my colleagues, the first friends I made were a group of Lebanese expatriates. They were businesspeople, restaurant owners, and long-time residents whose families had settled in West Africa before the civil unrest in their homeland. My Lebanese friends were incredibly hospitable, often inviting me to family dinners where dishes like steaming lamb stew, tabbouleh salad, and richly spiced barbecues were always present. These gatherings became my sanctuary, offering a sense of belonging in a foreign land.

Their stories deeply moved me. Their homeland had been torn apart by civil war, yet they had rebuilt their lives in Africa, finding stability and purpose. They taught me how to find peace amidst chaos—a lesson that profoundly shaped my perspective.

The Gardeners and Genuine Friendship

My home in Lomé was a small bungalow with a backyard cared for by two local gardeners, Kassim and Jacob. They were complete opposites—Kassim was young and talkative, always eager to share local customs and traditions, while Jacob was quiet and reserved, yet his skilled hands turned the backyard into a blooming paradise.

Each morning, with a cup of coffee in hand, I’d stand in the yard and chat with them, occasionally lending a hand with their tools. Through their simple yet heartfelt words, they taught me about Togo’s history and culture, helping me see the authentic and unpolished beauty hidden behind the bustling city.

The Shadows of Civil War and Resilience

Between 1993 and 1995, Togo was far from peaceful, with the looming shadow of civil war casting a pall over the country. Protests and gunfire often echoed through the streets, shops shuttered their doors, and once-busy markets turned eerily empty. As a foreigner, I carefully avoided conflict, yet witnessing the struggles of local residents filled me with both helplessness and an inner conflict.

One day, my Lebanese friend Amir told me, “The people here know how to live through turmoil because they can’t choose peace, but they can choose resilience.” His words resonated deeply with me. No matter how difficult the circumstances, Amir continued running his restaurant, Kassim and Jacob kept tending the garden, and I remained steadfast in my work.

Reflections and Insights

When I left Lomé in 1995, I carried not only memories of the land but also a profound understanding of human resilience. In Lomé, I witnessed the brutal reality of civil war, but I also saw the love and courage that people displayed in the face of hardship. The hospitality of my Lebanese friends, the simplicity of the gardeners, and the raw vitality of the land became one of the most treasured chapters of my life.

Years later, whenever I recall Togo, I can almost smell the sea breeze again, hear the vibrant calls of the marketplace, and see the blossoms flourishing in my backyard. It was a challenging period, yet one that I will forever cherish.