1
221 Willow Ave

Departure Day!

We had just a few last minutes things to do before hitting the road. I installed the side door bug screen, we loaded up the fridge, and were ready to roll right on time at 2pm…

But when we tried to start Petunia, we had a dead battery [cue the sad trombone]. Too much time with doors open and didn’t realize the van was “on” the whole day. No big deal though, we jumped ourselves with our rechargeable jumper box and we were rolling away from Somerville in just a few minutes.

2
Kingston

Our first stop was to visit Marisa in Kingston, NY. We went out for sushi and had her delicious olive oil cake for dessert. Thanks for having us 👋

3
Collegetown Bagels

For our first full day, we decided to swing by Ithaca for a little reminiscing. Collegetown Bagels may have moved across the street from where I remember it, but we had lunch there outside and the spirit of the place hasn’t changed at all.

We walked around campus a bit, swung by (my advisor) Alyssa’s office to say hi, and we got check out her lab and meet one of her grad students.

4
Jamestown

Dinner at Wiked Warren’s brewpub in Jamestown, NY. Spent the night in a Walmart parking lot for the first time. It was super easy to “make camp” by just putting up our blackout shades and crawling into bed.

Breakfast on Chautauqua Lake and Sadie got to run a bit at a dog park.

5
Edgewater Park

Mid day we stopped at Edgewater Park in Cleveland to stretch our legs a bit. Walked around, saw a cool sculpture, made sandwiches and ate a meal in the van for \240the first time

Didn’t expect to see a beaver in a city park!

6
Joliet

Another night, another brewpub, and another Walmart. This time in Joliet, IL.

Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois all get very poor marks for road quality.

7
Zombie Burger + Drink Lab

Guess what? More driving! Lunch and stretching our legs around downtown DesMoines. We ate at a themed restaurant called Zombie Burger! I had “The Walking Ched” which was a burger on a bun made of deep fried Mac and cheese, topped with more Mac and cheese and bacon.

8
Lincoln

So, here’s the thing about sleeping at Walmart. You’re supposed to ask permission at the Customer Service counter and this time we got denied! Went next door to Sam’s Club, which was already closed, and figured we’d ask forgiveness since we couldn’t ask permission 😆. Worked out fine, we just parked near a big rig that was clearly spending the night too and nobody bothered us.

We walked around Univ of Nebraska campus a little before hitting the road. Lovely campus.

9
River North Art District

Disco and Rue

10
Coors Field

Beautiful day at Coors Field! Reds v Rockies

11
Copper Mountain

Still snowing at Copper Mountain

12
Melanzana Outdoor Clothing

Leadville, CO is the highest incorporated city in North America at 10,200 feet. Melanzana is an beloved outdoor clothing company and you can only get their stuff at this one location.

What a babe 😍 in her obligatory (soon to be) Smelly Melly! I got one too (not dress length).

In an amazing coincidence, we ran into Julie’s high school boyfriend (yeah, from Northborough, Mass) who is now the Director of Tourism for Leadville.

13
Dominguez Canyon Trailhead

Last night was our first boondock camping! We crashed at the trailhead of the Dominguez Canyon Trail just outside Grand Junction, CO. Saw some amazing petroglyphs!

14
Klondike Rd

Boondocking tonight just outside Moab and Arches National Park. It was a beautiful day hiking, but light rain and heavy wind now.

As soon as we parked, we wanted to share a beer to end a nice 11 mile day. Turns out a wire had jostled loose and the fridge hadn’t been running for hours. How did I recognize this problem? Beer was too foaming upon pouring into a cup. I know exactly how a nice cold beer should pour!

Assorted photos from today’s hiking on the Bar M Trail:

15
Valley of the Gods

Boondocking again, this time in The Valley of the Gods in southern Utah, part of Bears Ears National Monument. We camped with a view of \240Setting Hen Butte and Rooster Butte. I took a series of photos through sunset, after dark, and another first thing in the morning.

The sliver of a crescent moon was so bright I had a very clear moon-shadow. Unfortunately none of my pictures of the moon itself came out clear enough. A lot more stars than in Boston 🤩

16
Elden Spring

We left Utah behind, drove theough Monument Valley and Navajo country, and are now in northern AZ just a bit outside Flagstaff. We hiked in terrain that is refreshingly green! Not New England green, but it’s something after all the red and brown of Utah

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Elden Spring

Last night was some pretty remote boondocking. Nobody around for miles is a great way to wake up:

Hiked to Fisher Point near Flagstaff today.

Can someone please tell me what game can possibly be played on this field? For scale, the soccer goal is normal sized. Maybe T-ball? Wiffleball? Baseball for ants?!?

And to wrap up the day, I can pull together a pretty decent camping charcuterie board!

18
Flagstaff

We caught Arizona in an unseasonable cold snap. Another day and of course another hike, but what’s this picture even of?

Let’s zoom in:

Is it snow? Is it hail? It’s the size and consistency of Dippen’ Dots, but way less fun.

An evening in Flagstaff however, was way more fun. Some locals gave us tips on where to rehydrate after hiking. Dark Sky Brewing seemed like “our kinda place” before we were even greeted by “giant skeleton’s best friend.” The interior decore was all skeletons and aliens and astronauts. I could have taken a dozen more pictures, but instead I’ll just have to go back someday. We hit Mother Road Brewing for round 2, also excellent.

19
Black Canyon City Trailhead

We hit 3000 miles for the trip today!

We expected to have to beat the heat in AZ, not the cold. We intended to hang around Flagstaff longer and then mosey on down to Sedona and/or Prescott, but the high temp forecasts are in the 40s and 50s. The beauty of being van people is that we can pivot and take advantage. If flagstaff is 25 degrees colder than it should be, then so is Phoenix! So while it wasn’t really on our wish list of places to visit (because it’s supposed to be 90-100F there already this time of year) we’re going because it’s going to be 75F tomorrow and everywhere else within a comfortable drive is colder and rainier.

Tonight we boondock with saguaro and Julie hand writes some postcards with the van wide open for a change

20
Phoenix

We started our day with a short nature walk from the trailhead where we slept.

Later in Phoenix see started bywalking around and hitting some vintage stores in the Melrose neighborhood. Bopped around downtown a fair amount and saw a bunch of different neighborhoods including Roosevelt Row. We met nice people and visited great businesses, but woof! Phoenix is an ugly city.

Arizona Wilderness and Wren House were both tasty breweries. Tonight we are crashing in a Trader Joe’s parking lot in the bougie area of Paradise Valley

21
Happy Jack

The temperature shifted back to whatever passes for “normal” in Phoenix so we headed back up north (and significantly uphill). We drove the scenic route through Tonto and Coconino National Forests.

We gained some elevation and the desert changed from saguaro and tiny shrubs to tiny trees and bigger shrubs. We stopped for a hike along the Sycamore creek trail. The pictures don’t do it justice. Tall trees and dense vegetation in this linear oasis was a refreshing contrast to the desert all around.

Away from the creek

Oasis

Ash and Sycamore intertwined, oolala

Sycamores like old bones in the sun

More driving, more elevation, and more rain (seriously AZ?!?) brought us back to ponderosa pine country where we boondocked in total isolation.

Finally cooked a hot meal: chicken, broccoli, cheese wraps

I need to practice! We booked a gig for 8/2!

22
Edge of the World

Morning run

25 miles of dirt road 😵‍💫 brings you the aptly named Edge of the world. I don’t need to bother with words, this is a special place and we got to sleep right on the cliff looking out

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Edge of the World

Just a great way to wake up

24
Prescott

Julie hiked down from Edge of the World to skip the most bone-rattling parts of the dirt road. I picked her up in Petunia about halfway down. 22 miles took over an hour!

For tonight we’re crashing at a hotel in Prescott. Lounging by the pool for the afternoon, then we’re going to crawl around town this evening

25
Pinyon Pines

Today was all about driving. There is a lot of open desert >100F \240between Phoenix and LA and we didn’t want to stop to see any of it.

Route 89 leaving Prescott was … uncomfortable … to say the least:

It was a sheer cliff in many places and it just. kept. going. for miles and miles of white-knuckle hairpin turns.

Then came crossing the desert. The van’s exterior thermometer never got over 109F, but the tire sensors were reading 133F!

When we got to civilization on the California side, near Desert Springs, the temp was still unlivable for an un-air-conditioned van, so we had to go uphill to a trailhead in the micro-town of Pinyon Pines. It was another long and twisty one, climbing 1000s of feet and dropping 25 degrees in just a few miles. Great place to beat the heat!

Moon

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Pinyon Pines

Rear View

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Pinyon Pines

Morning hike on Cactus Springs Trail. We only made it about a mile before a bit of wildlife startled us so badly we turned back.

28
Big Bear Lake

We had to find different high elevation to keep cool, so we drove up to Big Bear Lake. What a gem! The trees have gotten bigger.

And we found a spot to spend the night right on the water with our own personal little beach.

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Big Bear Lake

Hiking around Big Bear Lake, up Bertha Mountain, with great water views and a peek at the ski slopes.

30
Leo Carillo Campground

We made it to the Pacific with the trip odometer at 3999 miles!

Tonight we have our first campfire of the trip! And where better to do it that on the beach in Malibu! (Ok, we aren’t parked on the beach per se, but we’re in a campground right on the PCH in Malibu)

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Leo Carillo Campground

Morning walk

Seeing double

32
Ventura

We had intended to go to Santa Monica and Venice Beach today, but a section of the PCH between Malibu and Santa Monica is still closed from the recent fires. What should have been a calm 30 min drive on the coast would have been yet another harrowing trip through a mountain pass for nearly 2 hours.

No biggie, we just hung a U-ey and went the other direction up to Ventura. It’s a great little city I’ve never heard of! Great beach, a pier dating back to the 1800s, walkable downtown with several blocks of car-free zone, and many tasty breweries (priorities!)

Can you spot Petunia??

Promenade

Wind

Pier