1
Seattle

Today is the day I planned a year ago and I can’t feel more fortunate to see how all puzzle pieces have come together. Tears have flooded my eyes this morning when I realized how much love I’m getting from everyone and how lucky I am to be able to escape my world and walk the Camino.

Frank, my backpack, is my companion for the next 3 weeks. I’ll miss you all my loved ones already, but you are in my heart!

Andra you made it safe to London, where a new chapter awaits for you. Can’t wait to hug you in few months! Matei you are traveling and on your way to see the Joshua Tree, a place we’ve seen together two years ago. Your life is unfolding great experiences and I’m happy to be able to witness your journey. I love you both with my entire being!

Camino here I come! I’m buckled up on the flight to Madrid.

2
Burgos

Getting to Burgos

I made it safe to Madrid and now I’m waiting for the bus to Burgos. The flight across the ocean has given me time to finish the movie ‘the way’ which makes me question if I’ll be able to walk the 500km.

People have been very kind since I landed and some have came out of their way to help me find \240transfer to the bus stop. \240Carrying Frank makes me easy to identify as Pelegrína.

The highlight of the day was getting off the bus in Burgos. The square, the 6pm light, the overwhelming beauty of this town was breathtaking. I walked to get my Camino passport at the pelegrino reception where I felt even more how special this place is. I’m holding the passport with the first stamp and proudly walk in the cathedral that is imposing in the main square. My Sunday is now complete!

Bus drop off

First stamp

First albergue

3
Hornillos Meeting Point

I started the day with excitement, energy and satisfied with how the shoes felt on my feet and ended the day on the top bunkbed at an Albergue in Hornillos. Right when I started the walk, I meet a French guy, Allen, with whom I walked the entire day. The first 10km I didn’t feel tierd or thought of time as he was trying to tell me things in English and I was trying to understand his French! After stopping for coffee and some cake, the next 10km felt harder and I realized that my legs are trying to tell me that they don’t like the effort I’m making them go through.

Quiet street at 7am

The first Camino sign I’ve seen

The original plan was to walk 25km, but the risk of not finding accommodation in the next town and having to walk 10 more km made me rethink. My legs are tiered and I wish I would have a roller to use it but they don’t practice rolling here :)

I got my own shell

4
San NicolΓ‘s de Puente Fitero

Beautiful morning and waking at a fast pace. I’ve decided to walk alone and left my friends to enjoy their breakfast. Hope to see them again.

I learned today that I have my own speed going through life and that I welcome everyone to join me; I’m competitive and I feel good when I make progress and I pass someone on the trail; planning takes too much for my brain power; the ibuprofen makes magic when your legs hurt. I passed Hontanas and walked under St Anthony’s Archases and hiked the highest hill of my journey so far.

And now spending the night in a church where I was lucky enough to find the last bed.

5
Albergue Tasca Don Camino

At the church where I slept, we woke up on the sound of religious music which felt like a good alternative for meditation. Last night we got our feet washed as a welcome and we all had dinner together. This was followed by some Italian music which ended up with dancing. Don’t know how to think about dancing in the church as my grandma would be very much against it.

Before leaving we all prayed together and the volunteers wished us good luck on the journey. I never thought that I’ll have such a memorable experience in a 1000sf church without electricity.

Yellow flowers

Coping with pain in my cozy hoody that blocks the cold wind. It started with a knee pain and it moved to a hip and then my legs hurt, but the knee and the hip were fine. Because of the pain \240I’m \240tempted me to stop but my intention is to push through another 15km where I have a bed reserved.

I met three other ladies from Netherlands, Belgium and Canada on the trail and we are pampering ourselves with a room for four and a private bathrooms. Cloths are in the dryer so life is good!

6
Albergue La Morena

Today, I have another 29km awaiting for me. With an omelette and a cup of coffee I’m leaving the albergue at 8:30, later than usual. My roommates are planning to walk a little less today to give their legs a break so I’m letting them take their but hoping that we’ll see each other soon.

Walking in Carrión de los Condes I walked into the first church I see called Santa Clara to rest and enjoy some alone time. When I walk inside I see one of my friends Clara (in Santa Clara) attending the service and all I could hear was this beautiful singing by the nuns of the church. I was taken by surprise and impressed to tears.

The next 17km were on aflat trail in the full sun. It was the longest leg of my trip and the hardest so far. The heat and the fear of running out of water made me finish it without stopping.

The same thing you would see for third time. I’m glad I had enough battery in the phone to listen to my book and music.

After the 17km, I call this little place haven. It’s still very hot but I found water to fill out my bottle so I’m good to continue my journey to Ledigos.

7
Albergue La Perala

The day started with rain and I wanted to leave early, but I turned around as it was too dark and I couldn’t see the road. A little later I took the wrong path, in a farm field. Instead of turning around I keep going thinking that the muddy land is going to end in a street. It didn’t end and I had to walk in more mud before I got out to the main street. The learning was that when it gets muddy (in life too) stop yourself for going forward and turn around. It gets much worse if you keep going.

The tunnel of trees was probably one of my favorite part of the walk today.

Moratino was a village on my way that has this moratino built 2000 years ago in this hill. It’s was used for making and storing wine.

After several hours walking in the rain I stoped at a small, three tables, restaurant and my table top was built on a Singer sewing machine.

Hot soup has warmed me up after I discovered that my rain jacket is not waterproof.

The place I’m staying at has a London clock. Thinking of you Andra!

8
Mansilla de las Mulas

I’ve been walking by myself for two days now and I think I’m mustering smiling and greeting everyone with love and respect but not inviting them to conversation. I don’t remember the last time I had lunch or a meal by myself without staying busy with work or being on a call with someone. These last two days showed me that just eating myself and watching others it’s pretty rewording. I don’t think I’m becoming a loner as I miss my tribe I left behind on this trail and all my loved ones at home but this is definitely a new thing for me.

I had lots of people passing me on the trail and I wonder if this means that I’m slowing down to look around. There isn’t much to see and rain is chasing me from time to time but I had to walk under this rainbow. Reliegos is the town ahead of me and I’m not yet sure what to wish for.

For breakfast I was asked if I want eggs and ham and I said yes. She also asked me if I want orange juice and toast and I said yes and when she turned around I stopped her to ask her for a coffee and she said yes. I ended up with a lot of very tasty food that should have been for two people. I finished everything and I’m not sorry for the language barrier and saying yes to everything!

Restaurant notes

Warming up for the walk

Little circles and big circles… My location from up above

The town before the storm.

9
LeΓ³n

After a day of questioning why am I walking kilometers in rain and with my feet hurting instead of being on beach relaxing and drinking a cocktai, I got my question answered. Clare, the Belgium friend I made few days back, has walked in the same restaurant I was having coffee this morning and there wasn’t anything better for me than getting her hugs. I was ahead of her with several kilometers and chances of us to come together again were low. The day before, she could not find accommodation on her way and she had to keep walking for over 32km which brought her back on my journey. A little bit about Clare … I heard her speak at least 5 languages, she was an English teacher, a singer who lost her voice 2 years ago and now working with the education discounts in Belgium to make it more inclusive for people of different backgrounds and cultures. We are the same age, she doesn’t have kids but has done a lot of traveling and volunteering work in different countries.

To save our legs for a day, we took the bus for 18 km to Leon where we pretty much woke up the city. It was very quiet and the large plazas were welcoming us with flowers and beautiful architecture.

The Leon cathedral is impressive from outside but the interior is beautiful and well preserved.

With all these beauty the best was yet to come. Patricia, one of my closest friends from Eindhoven, has traveled for almost 3 hours to see me and we meet again after 20 years! I used to call her corazon because of her lovely and happy personality which she still has. Other than having 3 boys and moving from Barcelona to Santander she has not changed a bit. She’s wearing the same type of sweatshirts with designs, not wearing makeup and still biting her nails. She made my day complete!

We spent several hours together catching up on our life events and moving from having breakfast to wine and lunch.

The meats and the wine at their best

Pig blood and eggs for lunch. It’s been a very fulfilling experience that I would not have if I were seating somewhere on a beach.

Another stop to see Casa Botines, a building by Gaudi.

Old crowd and some new people …lady in blue, Marian is the owner of the cjess and go company https://www.schaakengo.nl/goshop-keima/and she’s been biking from Amsterdam.

10
Hospital de Γ“rbigo

The sun is out today and 29km to go

Resting feet and chocolate

And now stopped for the night to a place where they surve vegan food. The food was very tasty and with the hippie atmosphere there isn’t anything else to wish for!

He’s the chef that volunteers for 8 month a year making tea for all of us.

These is how people sleep on the Camino. Only the loweybeds are used and yes, snoring is a problem :)

11
Santa Catalina de Somoza

I’m pleasantly surprised to see that there are designated people that clean the trail and check on people.

After several hours of walking without paddy any villagers we came across this place were food, drinks and a place to rest was offered by a guy that’s been there for 12 years.

I’m overwhelmed with the kindness and abundance I found on Camino.

He doesn’t have electricity or water but he’s garden is blooming. What you see in the back is just a wall and behind it it’s a vegetable garden. The water he’s using to wash dishes is rain water he’s collecting.

Yesterday I learned the story of Camino… on your way to Santiago the sun is always behind you because you walk towards west. \240The walks are in the morning and you always see and follow your shadow. Once you reach Santiago your soul is reborn and if you walk farther you reach the sea where you wash your body in the water and your body is reborn. After this you can return and walk towards East. \240The sun is in front of you and you get to see the sunrise every morning because you are now reborn.

Passed Astorga, a little town where Gaudy has left his touch on this beautiful building. The color of the stone and the style is very similar to the building I’ve seen in Leon.

When you have only 5 more minutes not to lose your reservation and your legs have left you a km back.

A little haven somehow awaits at the end of every day.

12
El Acebo de San Miguel

Church of the assumption in Rabanal del Camino has impressed me with the simplicity. From outside it looks like all the other medieval churches but inside has the r set tatie of Santiago.

I’m in Galicia, the green part of the trail which has surpassed me with it’s beauty. . I’m heading up the mountain on a rocky trail but someone wrote on a sign to watch the trees … it was a good reminder to look up and around instead of just focusing on where to step next.

The flowers and the view was impressive. I hiked up over 700 m and over to the other side of the hill.

After hiking through the trees and on different type of terrain, mostly rocks that would roll under your feet, I reached the top of the hill to this very tall iron cross surrounding by rocks. People bring rocks and objects from around the world and live them here. This represents the weight you’ve carried through life that you can now leave behind.

This is the highest point on the Camino - the French Way

This is the traditional prayer you say at the bottom of the cross …O Lord, May the stone which I bring to this holy place Be a sign of pilgrimage to Santiago. When I reach my final judgment, Tip the balance of my life In favor of my good deeds. I lay down this token Which I carry from Burgos. Please forgive my sins And help me carry my burdens in life. Amen.

Coming down the hill, the views are beautiful. There are many fountains along the way but this one gave me the cold water I need it and made me stop and look around.

When I went up I listened to music and it felt very easy and enjoyable. The adrenaline rush helped me not feel the pain in my legs. Same as in life, going up is enjoyable but coming down is painful and you can get hurt. My knees were hurting and I got mentally exhausted from thinking how to step without getting hurt.

I found a bed after 27km and now I’m keeping my feet up while waiting for dinner to be served in few hours.

13
Albergue Leo

I left early to see the colors of the sunrise hoping that I can get my coffee and toast somewhere on my way. It’s been 15km and all I could get was a small bag of chips. This is my test for not having coffee in the morning … I usually don’t like it but today I miss the carbs more.

The sun is rising on the other side of the mountain. I’m still using my night eyes to walk but I got into the habit of watching to see what each sunrise brings. Every morning is different.

The sound of birds chirping sounds better than any of my playlists. I’m in the la la land taking my time as I don’t want this music to end too soon

The sun starts covering and warming the mountains. I feel the cold of the morning but there is no wind. It’s peaceful.

Today I had the first thought that I might want to do Camino again. Let’s see how this evolves!

I had to use my Jazzercise moves to bend and walk under branches. Balance was a problem but luckily I didn’t roll

❤️ Alex

This is the Roman bridge entering Molinasesca. No more descending from this point onwards. My knees are happy.

This is a \240garden I’ve spotted behind gates in one of the villages I passed today. In there houses you see a lot of stones, some wood in balconies and around windows and flowers is pots everywhere.

This guy made my day! He was waiting for people with fruts, coffee and pasties … how did he know that I needed my coffee?! He’s 78 and doing this every day. Seeing people like him makes me want to slow down, see the people around me and be a better person for them.

This is in Ponferrada. Another Cinderella \240castle called Knights Templar. I didn’t get to visit it, but it was very impressive from outside. The city downtown was small but it had at least 4 churches and the city hall building was beautiful. From here I took the bus to Villafranca del Bierzo. Hope my legs will be ready for another hike .. this time going up for 1162m in 28km.

Leo hostel is where I’m staying and where I got the last bed because of a last minute cancellation. It’s build in someone’s house and this painting is the father of the lady who manages the place. Her dad was once a peregrine and decided to move here. She’s very sweet and kind. Took my clothes to wash them and when she has seen my hair went she immediately came with a hair dryer. It’s also very impressive how she talks and treats everyone. She didn’t have more beds but she called around to find places for the people that walked in. I have to walk around and take more pictures because the woodwork and the stone combination is beautiful.

The life hack of the day … did you know that some French people use mint flavored bicarbonate on their toothpaste to keep they teeth white? \240It also helps with the digestion which reminds me of my grandmother giving me water with bicarbonate for indigestion.

Why am I not in pain? What’s wrong?

I don’t want this to end