View of Liberty Avenue

The balconey of our room provided this vista each morning. \240Tuk Tuks and Hop-on-Hop-off busses and various other transportation means were filling the streets ready to whisk people to their next location!

Tuk Tuk & Tiles

The Tuk Tuks ar very common in Lisbon, as were the tile facings on many of the homes. Buildings in Lisbon are frequently adorned with tiles, called "azulejos". This has occurred due to a combination of historical events, practical benefits, and artistic expression. After a devastating earthquake (rumored 8.0 on the reicter scale) in 1775, the city was almost completely destroyed. However, it was rebuilt quickly and affordably with tiles becoming a popular and accessible material for covering walls. They served to keep the buildings cooler in summer and protect them from dampness and offered some degree of fire resistance.

Church of Saint Anthony

Anthony was born and raised by a wealthy family in Lisbon, Portugal, and died in Padua, Italy. Noted by his contemporaries for his powerful preaching, expert knowledge of scripture, and undying love and devotion to the poor and the sick, he was one of the most quickly canonized saints in church history, being canonized less than a year after his death.

Birthplace of Saint Anthony

Saint Anthony was born in this small room which was part of this parent's house at the time. The house is long gone, but several churches were erected in this place.The current church was built in the last half of 1770's on the ground of a previous church which had been destroyed by the 1755 earthquake.

The traditional practice of praying for St. Anthony's help in finding lost or stolen things is traced to an incident during his lifetime in Bologna. However, today, people pray to him to find their life's love and he has become the Patron Saint of Marriages. Today, celebrations take place on June 12th and 13th, with the 13th being Saint Anthony's Day. The festival features colorful street parties, music, parades, and the consumption of grilled sardines, making it a highlight of Lisbon's summer. We were here just a bit early, but many places were already placing their decorations and the town was lively!

Lisbon Cathedral

The Sé church or also known as the Basilica of Santa Maria Maior is the oldest church in Lisbon. Its construction began in 1147, when the first king of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques, began construction on top of a hill. The church underwent numerous interventions and suffered impacts in the 1755 earthquake that devastated much of Lisbon. In the 17th and 18th centuries, works were carried out in the Baroque style, especially at a decorative level on the altars and in the main chapel.

Lisbon Cathedral from side of St. Anthony' Church

Roman Ruins

Roman Theater: Located in the Alfama neighborhood, this 1st-century theater is remarkably preserved, featuring the stage, orchestra, and many seating areas. The museum next door provides context and exhibits from the Iron Age to medieval times.

Red Roofs of Lisbon

Red Roofs Overlooking the Alfama Neighborhood

Saint Vincent

St. Vincent is crucial to Lisbon's identity and history because he is the city's patron saint, and his relics are believed to have been transferred to Lisbon by divine intervention, solidifying his status as the city's protector. The presence of his relics in the city Cathedral and his enduring legacy symbolize Lisbon's strength and resilience, making him a guiding light for the city.

Tom and Dana

St. Vincent's monastery is the double domed spries in the background with red roofs between us.

Historic Blue Azulejos Mural

This mural depicts life in Lisbon before the 1755 earthquake.

Blue Azujelos (Tile) Mural

The entrance to St. Vincent's monestary (St. Vincent outsife the walls) is framed on either side by massive tile murals.

St. Vincent's Monestery

The wall along the right side is the cathedral.

Inside of St. Vincent's Cathedral

National Pantheon

The Church of Santa Engrácia is a 17th-century monument in Lisbon. Originally a church, it was converted into the National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional in which important Portuguese personalities are buried. From poets to statemens, from singers to soccer players, the national congress must determine if the indivual is deemed worthy emoung to be buried in the Pantheon. It is located in the Alfama neighbourhood, close to another important Lisbon monument, the Monastery of St. Vicente de Fora. Construction was originally started in 1568 and stopped and restarted many times over the next 400 years, and was finally finished in 1966.

Jose Saramago Foundation

A cultural private art institution located in the Casa dos Bicos in Lisbon. Jose Saramago won the Nobell Prize in Literature in 1998.

Street Art - The Fox - mural by Bordalo II

This artist is known for using trash items to. Reset his outdoor artwork.

Umbrella Alley

This place is hopping all day and all night with restaurants, bars, and nightclubs!

Monument at Cabo da Roca

It was a very blustery day on the rock!!

The monument reads “Here ends the land and begins the sea".

Rugged Coast

The rugged coast of the Atlantic Ocean is very present and not too pleasant this morning!

Tom and Dana at the Lighthouse

The lighthouse was first lit in 1772 and became automated in 1990. It still shines today, guiding sailors to safety around \240the cape.

Flowers and Lighthouse

The fields along the cliffs were filled with succulents and flowers which made the dreary day so much more beautiful!

National Palace of Pena

This rather Disney-like palace represents one of the main expressions of 19th century architectural romanticism in the world, constituting the first palace in this style in Portugal. In 1838, the King consort, Ferdinand II, decided to acquire the old monastery at the top of the mountain, all of the surrounding lands, the nearby Castle of the Moors and a few other estates in the area to transform the remains of the monastery into a palace that would serve as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family. He certainly did that and on July 7, 2007, it was elected as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal.

Multi-Influences of Architecture

The first occupant of this site was a small wooden chapel and a convent, both of which were damaged in the earthquake of 1755 with only the altar piece was left intact. Almost the entire Palace rests on enormous rocks, and the mixture of styles it displays ( neo-Gothic , neo- Manueline , neo-Islamic , neo-Renaissance , with other artistic suggestions such as Indian ), as well as the way the rocks play into the architecture, is truly intentional, insofar as the romantic mentality of the 19th century had an unusual fascination with exoticism.

Moorish-Styled Courtyard

The building's layout is quite irregular and is conditioned by a pre-existing construction there – the Chapel of Our Lady of Pena – and also by the topography . The result is a roughly quadrangular core, organized around a cloister and another elongated one. The older cloister was finished with Moorish tiles with a fountain in the center. This two-story area contains bedrooms and private meeting rooms which open onto the covered walkways. When the king lived here, the walkways were protected from the weather by glass inserted between the arches. The glass is no longer there, making the breeze quite lovely on a hot May day!

The Dining Room

The table can seat as few as 4 or as many as 24. Notice the Moorish tiles on the walls and ceiling. Interestingly, there is no fireplace (or visible source of heating) in this room. The kitchen is several floors below.

The Grand Hall

The formal rooms in the newer wing of the palace are larger and better suited to matters of state. Moorish tiles are used extensively as wall and ceiling coverings with parquet wooden floors.

Silver Ship

Devoted in the current museography to the final monarchs to live in the palace, this small room originally served as a wardrobe for the main bedroom, and during the time of the monarchy it was furnished with closets. The silver centrepiece, given by a group of Parisian noblewomen to Princess Amélia on the occasion of her marriage to King Carlos in 1886. It represents a ship (symbol of the city of Paris) held by two mermaids alluding to the rivers Seine and Marne.

The Hunt Room

The Stag Room, also known as the Hunt Room, is a unique space adorned with hunting trophies and features Romanticist decor that blends medieval and Gothic elements. This room, was originally designed as a dining room and later transformed by King Ferdinand II into a display space for his personal collection, particularly ceramics. 

Alabaster Alter-Piece in the Chapel

This chapel evolved from a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena which was built in the 12th century. It was later expanded and incorporated into the monastery and subsequently the Pena Palace. The chapel features a main altar retable, a Mudéjar ceiling, and decorative wall panels. It served as a place of worship for the royal family and their guests

Stained Glass

This stained glass window in the Pena Palace chapel holds both artistic and political significance. Installed in 1840 by Ferdinand II, it was crafted by the Kellner family in Nuremberg and reflects the artistic intentions of the time while also symbolizing the political legitimacy of the palace's construction. Notice how the sun's rays reflect a colorful mosaic on the crypt.

The Choir

A view of the Mudejar ceiling and tiled walls.

The Private Mansion

Carvalho Monteiro wanted to build a grand space, where he could live surrounded by all the symbols that reflected his interests and ideologies. As a conservative,  monarchist  and  Gnostic Christian , Carvalho Monteiro wanted to resurrect Portugal 's most glorious past, \240hence the predominance of the Neo-Manueline style with its connection to the Discoveries . This evocation of the past also includes Gothic art and some  classical elements . The diversity of Quinta da Regaleira is enriched with symbolism of  esoteric themes related to  alchemy, Freemasonry,  the Templars, and the Rosicrucian .

The Stables

The stables were beautiful, each stall having a rose granite watering bowl. Dana decided to try it out!

Cavallo e' Cavallo

Bob found his namesake sculpted above the stables!

Patamar dos Deuses Tower

The Patamar dos Deuses is made up of 9 statues of Greco-Roman gods. Classical mythology was one of Carvalho Monteiro's inspirations for the Regaleira gardens. Dana and Mary Ann decided to climb one of the towers of this sculpture to see the vision from a more lifted view!

The National Palace

The town of Sintra is notable for its romantic architecture , resulting in its classification as the Sintra Cultural Landscape , a UNESCO World Heritage Site. \240It sits atop the tallest mountain range in the Lisbon region and is the place of many palaces and estates. Basically, if you were wealthy in Portugal, you had a summer home here.

While Sintra has been a haven for the rich and famous for several hundred years. Its history extends back to pre-Roman times with a significant portion controlled by the Moors who ruled the Iberian peninsula for 800 years.

Town of Sintra

Today, the town hosts buildings in the traditional Portuguese style with brightly colored walls, red clay roofs, and rich moorish tiles lining many of the facades.

The Sirens of Sintra!

Sintra Market

Doorway to Paradise

Fountain of Abundance

We all washed our hands in the cool water flowing into the Fountain of Abundance - we are hoping it ‘pays’ off!! But not until we get home as we have no room in our suitcases!

View of the Palace Regaliera

And yes, we walked all the way up there … and then some!

Decorated Entrance to the Regaliera Park

Bob, Dana, Tom, Mary Ann, Bob and Lynette

Beginning our trek into the well!

The Initiation Well

Carvalho Monteiro who bought the palace in 1892, was an alleged Freemason. He wanted to create a perplexing landscape where he could assemble symbols that represented his views and areas of interest. The estate featured an amalgamation of various architectural styles. Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Manueline architectural motifs were all present. It is believed that the well might have been used in secret initiation rites for Freemason’s and became popularly known as the Initiation Well.

View at the Top

The interior of the well resembles a tower and is thought to represent the 9 stages of Dante’s inferno. \240Although there are only 6 floors going down, the walls make it appear much deeper.

The ‘crew’ on the stairs!

The Eight Piint Star

In Masonic beliefs, the eight-pointed star represents regeneration, initiation, and enlightenmen. \240It may also reflect Rosicrucian or Templar symbolism, as the entire estate is rich in mystical, occult, and alchemical iconography.

Bob and Lynette

Bob and Mary Ann

Tom and Dana

The Mermaids of the Waterfall

Finding Our Way

The caves are all man made and, fortunately well lit. But similar to a maze there were a few tunnels that took you to a blind ending.

The Waterfall

The. Beachside Square

Portugal is known for its white and black tiles that make up the plazas and sidewalks throughout the towns. Each plaza uses different designs and it’s truly an amazing sight!

More Tile Patterns

The Beach at Cascais

Beach Soccer Volley Ball

These 4 guys were playing a game similar to beach volleyball except they can’t use their hands. So 3 touches on the ball, but with only chest, head, knees, and feet to get it over. Quite amazing!

Dana wore Bright Colors to Avoid Being Hit by a Train

Tom Checking if the Train’s On Time

Our train ran about an hour late, but we boarded and found our seats and had a pleasant trip to Porto!

Porto Train Station

You’ve probably noticed by this time that our pictures depict weather in Portugal as nothing short of fabulous! Blue skies, pleasant watm temps, low humidity … in short, perfect!

Aveleda Winery

Our first stop on our Taste Vacation’s Tour occurred just out of Porto at Aveleda Winery.

The Estate Home at Aveleda

The first records of the estate date back to the 16th century until the figure of Manoel Pedro Guedes. The earth’s calling made him leave the political life in the capital and dedicate himself exclusively to the estate in Penafiel and its wines. This wine was tasted by the main critics of the time, in Berlin and Paris, immediately gaining quality recognition with a gold and silver medal. From this point on, Aveleda was created, Today, the family is too large to live together in the house, so they are assigned weeks … kind of like fractional ownership!

A Folly

During the early years of the vineyard, it was a custom to build a ‘folly’ on the property. There are several on the estate. The small house-structure has no purpose and no content. But it appeases the fairies or good folk of the countryside.

Dana, Mary Ann, Lynette

At the entrance to the gardens. Eight hectares of exquisite trees from around the world, including sequoias, cork trees (it is a winery, ya know) and over 300 species of Camilla trees, are interspersed with roses and rhododendrons, azaleas and clematis with hidden ponds and secret spaces … something for all occasions.

Lynette and Mary Ann

Our tasting was hosted by Katia who took us through the ‘vino verde’ or green wine of the region. These wines are traditional white wines (Albariño, Sauvignon blanc) but are referred to as ‘green wine’ because the area is so verdant! The winery produces many red and white varietals from vineyards across the region.

Wines of Aveneda

We tasted the whites, including Aveleda Solos de Granito (an Alvarinho), Moscatel, Aguieir (a sparkling brut), Real-Moscatel-Galego-Roxo, and finished with a red Val de Maria which was Duoro Superior.

The Aveleda Chapel

One of the Aveleda Peacocks

Shaking his tail feathers at me!

Hotel Quinta Sao Jose Do Barrilario

The View from our Room

The View from the Other DIrection

Interesting Succulent

Dinner at DOC Restuarant

DOC is helmed by Chef Rui Paula, one of Portugal’s most acclaimed chefs. While DOC itself hasn’t been awarded a Michelin star, Chef Paula has earned two Michelin stars for his restaurant Casa de Chá da Boa Nova in Leça da Palmeira, near Porto. It does however, sport a Michelin Man statue at the entrance in recognition of Chef Paula's participation in the Michelin Guide program.

Octopus Carpachio

OK, I thought I would never even think about trying octopus carpachio, but it was surprisingly tasty! \240The parmesian wafer was a nice touch. \240And the wines were exquisitely paired. \240So well, in fact, that I forget to take any more pictures of the courses. \240Suffice it to say, this was a terrific dining experience!

Hotel Sao Jose Do Barrilario

Driving to our hotel (way up there at the top of the mountain) is not for the faint of heart. \240This new structure sits atop a mountain of vineyards and is reached by way of a one-lane gravel road. But one you are at the top, the view is fabulous!

Sandman's Port

Sandeman is a brand of Port and Sherry wines founded in 1790. Its well known logo features a caped man known as "The Don" dressed in a Portuguese student's cape and a wide traditional Andalusian type hat. (Some say the black student's cape was JKK Rowling's inspiration for the capes worn by the student's in the Harry Potter books.) Besides Port and Sherry wines, Sandeman also produces Brandy and Madeira wines and both dry (aka tranquil) red and white wines.

Our Guide and a DOC Marker

Roberto, our guide, provided a terrific history of the Port wine industry. The Duoro river region is the oldest region that has been both controlled and regulated in the world. The marker in the picture is one of 363 markers that set the boundaries of the region designated by the government for controlled growth and manufacturing of Port wine back in 1756. It was, at the time, the world’s first demarcated wine region and was established to control authenticity and quality. It has expanded significantly since then.

Much of the vineyards in the Duoro river valley (technically lining the hillsides above the river) are planted on top of this type of schist stone. Growing in this stoney soil causes the vines to struggle for water and minerals as they dig their roots into the crevices. This causes a smaller production with grapes that have more flavor.

Port in Bottles

Port in the bottle is usually bottled very soon after being put in the barrel with the intent that the Port will continue to improve for up to 100 years. Vintage ports will continue to age in the bottle since they are not filtered prior to bottling, \240whereas reserves and tawneys will remain stable for 100s of years but will not age.

Port in Barrels

Used barrels are used to process this fortified wine. When the port is ready, it is bottle and sold. Port production is regulated in Portugal. The government allows a producer to sell only 1/3 of their production per year. Commercial growers will continue to increase their production, often by purchasing the grapes of smaller farmers, so they can continually sell more each year.

The Maceration Room

Maceration of the port grapes takes place in these cement vats and is accomplished by machine that mimcs the traditional foot stomping. \240Foot stomping is still done for some vintage ports. Fermentation is then allowed for a period of around 2 weeks, and then the fortified wine spirit (usually 70% alcohol) is introduced to stop the fermentation, while allowing the port to retain its sweetness. The entire process is controlled by the government, down to the selection of the wine spirit used to fortify the port.

Just a Taste

We enjoyed some time in the tasting room before heading on to our next adventure.

Tom, the Sandeman

Dana and the Iconic Sandeman

Just before we started our hike about half-way down the mountain of vines, we stopped for a view of the Duoro river at the bottom of the valley.

Dana's Birthday Picnic in the Vines

We had sandwiches, smoked ham, fruit and jam, salted codfish wraps, breads, and a chocolate cookie roll for desert! It was yummy!

Picnic Wines

Our liquid refreshment included water, orange juice (from fruit grown on property), coffee, and - of course - wine!

After Picnic Nap Spot

Most of us continued to sit and drink, but Bob decided to try out the napping spot!

Vinha Grande - Douro

Wild Poppies in the Vineyard

The History

Brothers George and David Sandeman from Perth founded the company in 1790 with £300. David left the company in 1798 to found the Commercial Bank of Scotland leaving George in sole charge. In 1953, Sandeman bought the port company Robertson Brothers. Initially passed to his nephew, George Glas Sandeman,Sandeman remained a family business until bought out by the drinks company Seagram in 1979. In 2001 the operation was sold to Sogrape by Diageo and Pernod Ricard who had acquired it from Seagram. A descendant, George Thomas David Sandeman is a member of the board of Sogrape Vinhos S.A.

Pinhao Dock

We traveled about 30 minutes from our hotel to the Duoro river to board our transportation for the afternoon.

Is this the right boat?

Turns out, it wasn't! But we quickly found our private Rabelo boat for our tour. These boats used to carry barrels of Port wine to Porto (about 100 miles away) under sail. Today, a motorized prop makes the sail much more smooth, and we only went a few miles up and down the river.

Comfortable Sunset Cruise

The Wooden Bow

River Boat

There are many riverboat companies that provide tours along the Duoro river. But we truly believe that to experience Portugal, you have to "taste" your way through it with Taste Vacations! \240We are having a blast!

The Buildings that make up the Pestana Hotel

This 5-star hotel, a world heritage site, forms part of the more than 2000 year history of Porto, incorporating a group of buildings dating back to the sixteenth century. It has been completely rebuilt as a luxurious modern hotel, offering all the comfort and facilities modern travellers could wish for - just with many short staircases and ramps and twists and turns weaving through the hallways that ran from on building to another.

Ribelo Boats

Situated that on the Duoro River, you can see the ribelo boats that once used to haul barrels of port wine down from the Duoro valley floating by, now laden with tourists and travelors. Directly across the river from Porto is the town of Gaia, where all the port wine is aged, bottled, and eventually sold. The Porto side of the river (which is actually the port or left side of the river coming in from the Atlantic Ocean, is where ‘society’ lived

Mushroom Shopping

Alfonso did \240tell us that he usually comes here to purchase mushrooms because it has the largest selection in Portugal.

Cheese

Alfonso also comes here for cheese. We agreed with that decision.

Olives

… and olives.

Say ‘Cheese’, Mary Ann

We purchased a sample of truffled manchego and it was fabulous!

Cooking Class

We walked back to the kitchen and got to work, peeling and chopping onions and garlic, which together with olive oil, makes up the Portuguese trifecta!

Alfonso Stirting Caldo Verde

Caldo Verde

Caldo verde, or Green soup, begins with garlic, onions and olive oil. To this, we added collard greens and chorizo. This is the most common soup made in Portugal.

Bob and Lynette Shredding Potatoes

Our main course was a traditional salted cod dish, rinsed and cooked in oil, with shredded potatoes … and of course, the Portuguese trifecta! \240

Caldo Verde

Ready to Eat!

Lynette, Bob, Mary Ann and Bob are prepared to sample our cooking prowess!

Bacalhaus au Bras

Salted cod fish with fried shredded potatoes!

Tarte de Almandoa Caramelizada

So, while we were busy cooking soup and cod fish, Alfonso was busy making this scrumptious almond tarte. It was so simple and so delicious!! I have the recipe and I will definitely make this again soon!!

Logo for Cockburn’s Port

Port wine makers, often referred to as "shippers," are named after the families who pioneered the trade in the Douro region and later established the production and distribution of port wine. Historically, many of the most influential families were British (English and Scottish), and their names are still associated with some of the most famous port houses, like Taylor's, Sandeman, Cockburn's, and Graham's. \240So far we have visited (and tried) Sandenan, Cockburn’s, and Graham in the past two days!

Stave Pile

Most port companies reuse the staves in casks, barrels, and wooden vats. Unlike when making dry wines or whiskeys, port makers do not want to impart any flavor from the wood into the port. So the older, the better!

The Cooperage

This cooperage makes casks, barrels, and vats for all the companies under the Symington Family Estate, which includes Cockburn’s, Grahams, Dow’s and Warre’s.

The Barrel Room

A cask or barrel ypically holds around 630 liters but can vary. Vats, which are larger storage vessels, can hold significantly more, with some holding at least 20,000 liters and even up to 100,000 liters. A barrel used for aging Port, often referred to as a Port pipe, holds around 550-630 liters.

So man barrels!

Very Old Port

A dusty bottle in crevice A22 contains a Port bottled in 1861. No one knows if it has aged well, but Port’s are none for aging well for decades!

Cockburn’s Port Tasting

We tasted 3 \240types of Port. On the left, coming in with a dark ruby color with a purple hint at the edge, is the Special Reserve. A young Port with a lot of sweetness and tannins. It was OK, but clearly young. \240On the right was the 2007 Vintage Port, with a deep ruby color, \240smoother finish, and the edges teasing out a hint of amber. This was a more drinkable wine. In the middle was the 10-year Tawney Port. The color, a clear amber, was accompanied by notes of citrus, caramel, and roasted nuts. Definitely the king of the pack of your looking for a Tawney Port.

Cool Bob

Vinum is a fine dining restaurant owned by the Graham Port company and housed in the block of barrel and vat buildings in Gaia. \240We drove up to find drape vines trained on trellises that spelled out GRAHAM. Kind of cool!

From the Terrace

We had a beautiful view across the Duoro River back to Porto.

Vinum Restaurant

Inside Vinum Restaurant

You can see the Port barrels through the glass on the far side.

The meat grill!

We weren’t exactly picking out our dinner , but it was fun to watch the process!

Graham’s 10-Year Tawney Port

With Porto catching the golden rays of the setting sun, this was just too beautiful to pass up!

Sunset Towards the Atlantic

Lighted Alley

As we made our way back to our dockside hotel, we found this fairy tail lighted alley.

Sunset Stroll on the Duoro River

ODE Winery

This place was a surprising find in the middle of a small Portuguese village. ODE Winery's history began in 1902 with the construction of the original building in Vila Chã de Ourique, a historic town in the Ribatejo region, Portugal. It operated as a cooperative for the individual grape farmers to pool there Joyce ands make wine. \240The winery was purchased by new owners and underwent a major renovation in 2000, incorporating state-of-the-art processing and storage equipment and new wine tourism facilities. However in 2010, those owners left the country, leaving all the property to the government \240 In 2021, David Clarkin and Andrew Homan acquired the 96 hectare estate. Having originally come to inquire about the farm part of the property with the intent to build a resort, ii was not until the 3rd visit that they discovered the winery. \240ODE Winery officially opened in December 2021, revitalizing the historical structure with a focus on minimal intervention winemaking. Everything you see on the following pictures was already here and just forgotten! The new owners have doie \240a great job bringing it back to life!

The old winery - refurbished

Walking Along

The buildings at Ode are in the center of the town and take up a noticeable area of land. Our guide toured us through all of the buildings and seemed pleased that the new owners are now employing the townspeople.

Cork Trunk Stools in front of Event Center

Cork is the largest export in Portugal. WeI’ll have a chance to tour a cork forest later this week. But it was nice to see these trunks placed around the winery. This event center was built 20 years ago and is huge. The new owners now host car shows in there.

The Barrel Room

After 10 years sitting empty, these barrels all leaked. Only the stainless steel vats are used at present. But ODE plans to repair and reuse the old wooden barrels.

Stills

Originally, these stills were used to distill the stems and skins of the grapes to make grappa or brandy, known in Portugal \240as aguardenta bagaceira.

Ode Mash Vats

ODE still macerates their grapes by old fashion foot stomping!

The Foot Treading Area

Our guide mentioned that stomping the grapes is a happy time with music playing and everyone having a great time!

Amphorae

These amphorae are still used for a portion of the wine making process. \240

Current graffiti on old amphorae.

The Oval Wine Egg

This wine storage container made of resin is a new edition to the wine process at ODE. \240They use it partially for a prices of fermenting the grapes intact with the skin on, which adds an interesting flavor to the wine.

Mural in the Barrel Room

No one knows who painted this huge mural, the owners are hoping someone will take ownership. But for now, we’re all enjoyed it!

Gorgeous Barrel Room

20 years ago, the owners built this large barrel room with state of the art lighting, ventilation, and decor. The new owners haven’t made enough wine to fill these barrels yet, but they’ll be prepared!

Conference Room

This state of the art conference/testing room is also a left over from the previous owners. Great for private dinners or tastings. And with no phone service in this underground room, everyone will pay rapt attention!

Hole in the Ground

This is actually the exit from the underground barrel room. Symbolically the connection between above and below ground embodies the wineries philosophy of Minimal Intervention, Maximal Attention reflecting the journey from the depths of the earth where the wine marries, to the light above, where it ossa celebrated.

Toast Points with Berys, Carrots, and Microgreens

We were served a mult-course meal to accompany our wine tasting.

Chocolate Mousse with Green Chai

Spinach, Broccoli, Toasted Tofu and Sesame Seeds

Tempura Fried Fava Beans

This was a surprised find! They were delicious!!

Tune Carpachio

Also yummy!

Sesame Pork on Cabbage

Herdade Do Esporao

The Esporao area was founded in 1267 and was an important stronghold throughout the middle-ages. The iconic tower was constructed in the 1400s ands still stands today!

Michelin Star

This restaurant has both one Michelin Star and one Michelin Green Star. Chef Carlos Teixeira, who constantly seeks to convey his concern for sustainability, advocates a modern cuisine based on seasonal produce, both from the farm itself and from the surrounding Alentejo region of Portugal The menu is presented as a 5-course or 7-course tasting menu paired with wines made from the local vineyards. We chose the 5-course menu!

Michelin Man

It seems that so many of the restaurants we have eaten at in Portugal are affiliated with a tire \240company - either having a Michelin Star, or a Michelin mention. Either way, we are having great food! And we keep encountering this little guy!

Wisteria Trellis

The only dam in the Alentejo region creates a lake that extends on this property. While it made for a beautiful dining backdrop, the nearly 100 degree heat kept is viewing it from inside!

Elderflower Sparkling Wine

Our aperitif was a chilled glass of elderflower sparkling wine bottled on site at the restaurant. It was refreshingly sweet with hints of citrus and the fragrance of elderberries.

Breads

Homemade breads were next with olive oil and flavored, whipped butters. The breads were sour dough, cornbread, and focaccia with pesto. Hmmmmm , good!!

First Course

Our first course was enjoyed right to left, starting with a cauliflower puree with mushroom demigkace topped with a cauliflower stick, the second was a puréed \240turnip with cauliflower foam and the third was chicken foot skin. Yes, you heard that right - chicken foot skin, \240kind of tastes like a pork rind. And with this we were well on our way to a unique dining experience!

Second Course

Perhaps one of the most impressive touches in this dining experience was the use of service ware - in this case the unusual bowl. In it we were offered a delectable steamed cauliflower shaped as a flower on a rich creamy purée with coriander and butter.

Dessert Course

We had tantalizing bites of local fruits woven into golden molds for dessert.

\240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240 \240Chocolate Buttons

The last was a mouthful of chocolate, coffee, salt and sugar and melted in our mouths!

Tom and Dana and Evora

Evora Medieval Walls

The walls that fortify the city of Evora were constructed in the 1500s. Additional walls and \240fortifications were added over the next few centuries and today it stands as one of the few remaining completely walled cities in Europe. Life goes on as usual within the walls with businesses, churches, markets, schools, restaurants, and hotels located throughout. Of course, Evora has expanded outside the walls now and there you can find supermarkets, malls, car marts and bus stations.

Evora Aqueduct

The Evora Aqueduct can still be seen winding its way through the walled town. It stretches 11 miles bringing clean drinking water from the closest spring to the town citizens. Built in 1532, and copying Roman designs, this aqueduct is an iconic symbol in Evora today.

Portal through the Wall

Church of Saint Anthony

This renaissance church built in the 1500s anchors the town square.

Capela dos Ossos

The Chapel of Bones is next to the entrance of the Cathedral of St. Francis. The wiring over the entrance says ‘we bones that are here await yours’. \240It is quite unique as its interior walls are covered with human skulls and bones.

Human Mummy

Franciscan friars completed this chapel in 1816 using bones from over 5000 ordinary people who were buried in the midevil cemeteries of Evora.

Skull Column

The friars arranged the bones in various designs.

Humerus and Femur Column

The friars had a purpose for building this rather macabre chapel - to address the overcrowding in the local cemeteries and to provoke thought in those who visited regarding the realities of death and the need to live a virtuous life.

Mary Ann in the Chapel

A Nativity

There were a number of nativities on display in the chapel as well as the cathedral, but this one caught my eye. The plaque stated that it was either made or given to the cathedral in 2024. The characters are so detailed and the scene is very busy. There is a definite ‘Caribbean’ theme to the characters. A chamber orchestra plays for the baby Jesus at the manger. There’s a market in heaven. Just so much to be amazed at!

An Interesting Wall

Sharish Gin

Sharish Gin is a Portuguese gin made with a long list of ingredients beyond juniper berries.

The Still

Sharish Door

This door OSS in the shape of the bottle. Ana, we found that it is exported to the USA! \240This is now per favorite gin! \240

Lynette with her Sharish Gin

Preparing our Gin and Tonics

Whether we were just hot ( it was 98 degrees outside) or maybe we were thirsty, or maybe we just wanted a break from the wine … this gin was extraordinary!!

Learning About Cork

Cork is the largest export in Portugal! But it is a slow crop. Standing in this natural cork forest, we learned that cork trees (Quercus suber) are a type of oak tree that naturally separates its bark from the trunk in response to hot weather. The bark is then harvested, leaving the tree to grow more bark. The growth process is slow. Trees must be appropriately 25 years old or have a diameter of 17cm before their first (or virgin) harvest. After that, it takes about 10 years for the bark to regrow to a thickness that can be used for wine corks. Thinner bark is used to form various cork textiles like flooring, insulation, purses and shoes and even ‘corkini’ swimsuits. Cork is water proof and for proof, light weight and flexible making it an excellent material for many \240projects.

Demarcation of Old Bark and New Bark

Cork trees are only harvested to the first branches. This method both protects the tree for future production and provides larger cork pieces for production.

Wine Corks

This piece of cork illustrated g how thick the bark must be to create a solid cork for a wine bottle.

Champagne Cork

Medallion and Champagne Cotk

Thinner cork pieces can be used to create medallions that make up the Champagne cork.

Cork Harvesting Equipment

Cork is harvested by hand. Usually 2 men armed with an axe as shown will cut into the bark, just down to the trunk, sands then use the tapered wooden end to pepper the already loosened bark off the tree. Two men can harvest the bark from a tree this size in about 15 minutes.

Fitapreta Winery

The manor house was the draw that led the winemaker to this area.The Fitapreta Vinhos estate started to be built at the end of the 14th century, but underwent changes over the centuries, especially during the 19th century, when the Saldanha family took over the building. The deep historical and archaeological research that has been done on the site, at the request of António Maçanita (the current owner and winemaker, has uncovered the first document in Évora that mentions rules applied to the vineyard and wine trade.

The Manor House

The walls of the manor house were largely intact but some areas required restoration to make the structure safe and useful for the business.

Wine making takes place throughout the buildings.

The Chapel

As with most major homes, a portion was set aside as a chapel. This chapel was uncovered with 2 frescos intact, St Francis and St John the Baptist.

The Courtyard

The upstairs area to the right houses a restaurant. The courtyard is often used for weddings and events.

The Courtyard and Manor House

Old Ruins

Ancient Wine Maceration Vat

Under the chapel, an ancient wine maceration vat was discovered. Other ancient fragments found on site now reside there.

Orange White Wine

We tasted 5 wines from the winery’s broad list, starting with this interesting white that is actually orange. Before this tour, we would have thought this coloration indicated that the wine had turned bad. But this orange delight was really good!

Wine Delight!

The last red of the day!

Heading to Dinner

This building now operates as a restaurant serving traditional Portuguese family dishes alas great wine!

Grist Stones

This windmill was built in 1896 and operated until the 1970s. Today the grounds are a museum of 20th century relics.

Old Tile Fountain

Stork Condominium

We saw many white storks (actually the adults are white and black) as we drove through Portugal. \240Here, they nest on a variety of high structures like chimneys, dead palm trees, and they especially love electrical poles. Many storks no longer migrate south for the winter but instead stay in Portugal year-round, a trend attributed to climate change and abundant food - but we think it’s because of these ‘stork condominiums’! The number of breeding pairs in Portugal has significantly increased in recent years and these were a common site!

The Fonseca Family Home

Jose Maria da Fonseca.is the oldest table wine company in Portugal, though some port winehouses pre-date it. The family-owned company was founded in 1834 and is based in the village of Azeitão on the Setúbal Peninsula. It is now in its 7th generation and most of its production is exported internationally. We toured the family home, which has been operated as a museum since the 1970s.

The Old Bottling Line

Fonseca is credited for starting the practice of bottling table wine in Portugal. Prior to him, Portuguese just poured their wine from the barrel. He acquired his bottling equipment from France and could fill 4 bottles at a time and about 240 per hour. The corker would install the cork and then the bottle was crimped with a lead seal. Fortunately the seal never came in contact with the wine, so no one got lead poisoning from this process. Today, bottling is done in a much safer and environmentally manner.

Journey Around the World

In the early years of operation, Fonseca sent wine by ship to sell in Brazil with the condition that any unsold barrels must be returned to him. When the few unsold barrels returned to Portugal, people said the wine tasted better than barrels from the same vintage that had remained in Portugal. This was due to the accelerated aging that occurred due to the motion of the ocean sloshing the wine around, exposing more of the wine to the wood and to oxidation. \240He then did an experiment to test this theory and sent some barrels around the world with the same result. The barrels are held in a climate controlled room with restriction that the decision to sell the port wine must be made by the 9th generation of the family … which hasn’t been born yet!

The Home and Gardens

The gardens were designed in a decidedly English fashion and planted with \240impatiens of all different colors. With the vivid yellow of the house in the background the garden was a Kaleidoscope of colors!

The Oldest Tree

This large tree anchored the garden.

The Vines

While the Fonseca vineyards are based in various regions around Potugal, they keep a small planting of each of the types of wines they produce at the house.

Although the vines all look the same early in the spring, come fall, the different varietals leaves will be resplendent in different colors of red, gold, brown, and \240purple!

The Famiky Collection

At the end of a long, dusty cellar is a vault that stores a library of Muscatel du Setsbal, invented by Jose Maria Da Fonseca. Only family members and very important people (like heads of state) are invited in.

The Library Reference

Each of the bottle years stored in the library is etched on the barrel. Not every year is represented though, with some missing due to poor harvests, WWII, and vine blights. Most of the important people who get to enter retrieve a bottle from their birth year or other momentous occasion.

Circle of Wine

A Nossa

Our guide, Francisco, joined us for all of our tastings and meals and provided so much history and color to our time in Portugal. He was an excellent ambassador for Portugal. Every meal or tasting was started with a toast ‘to us!’ Or, as they say in Portuguese ‘a nossa’! \240To us… Bob, Lynette, Bob, Mary Ann, Tom and Dana … we had a blast in Portugal and we’ll definitely be back!!